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Unread 02-07-2010, 07:26 PM
cfelton cfelton is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Hobbsville, North Carolina
Posts: 1,364
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Lamont, I agree with Spare. The cam seal surface can be fixed in different ways. It can be sprayed and resurfaced or fixed with a speedy sleeve. Also price a new one it might not be too bad. When I rebuilt my 170 it had a ring of old burnt rubber on the sealing surface. I removed it with WD-40 and a razor blade, sliding it flat on the surface. The sealing surface was like new. Also when replacing the seals pack grease in between them when installed. My charging system had been upgraded with a 60 amp Marine alternator, works great. I didnt replace my oil pump, wish I had. The older 170s had an aluminum pump housing and would swell and reduce oil pressure when hot. The newer upgraded model has a cast steel housing but you also have to buy a redesigned pickup tube if you upgrade. I would definately have a head job done and replace valve seals and check spring pressures. Also use NEW head bolts and retorque after about 10 hours run time. If it were me I'd check cylinder wear and if none I'd hone the cylinders and rering the pistons and check the crank journals and replace the main and rod bearings. You can order a complete gasket set from Mercruiser. I also run 40wt. motor oil and 1/2 qt. Lucus oil stabilizer in mine, it runs cool and keeps the oil pressure up. If you have any questions ask away. Ive got tons of info and part resourses on these motors! These are Great motors if well taken care of, I love my 170!
Carroll
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77 V20 cuddy with 170 I/O Mercruiser
72 16ft. Carolina w/a 25hp Evinrude
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