There is the obvious swapping of all accesories and bolt ons that includes flywheel, stator, pick-up, ignition, coils, harness, starter, plugs, intake, carbs, possiblt reed replacement, thermostats, hoses, fuel pump and so on and so on. Then there is the mounting bolts that can sometimes be a real PITA!!! or just come right out. Then you get to replace the water pump as well, and then go through and do the link and sync on the carbs and ignition, find true top dead center on the new engine and mark the pointer. After you get her started up then you can live through the smoke from the assembly oil burning off as well as paying EXTRA attention to if it's pumping water as well as how hot it will run for the first 30 minutes. After you get some break-in time on it you can reset the total timing and do a quick water test and rough in the idle. Get you a few hours on her and do the final adjustments as well as possibly do some re-jetting of the carbs if the engine you put back on was bored or ported at all.
It is one of them jobs than can go easily or painfully. Also don't forget to figure in AT LEAST $500 for OH SH!TS when doing the job. I have spent more money on OH SH!TS than the actual rebuild on some engines.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR
2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD
AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P.
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