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Powerhead must be pulled to replace the shift rod. The best way to cut the broken bolts is as explained above, is to cut the bolt shafts as close to the powerhead as possible by drilling horizontally with a 3/8" or 1/2" DeWalt Pilot Point bit. Pilot point bits will not wander like a standard drill bit. Also, are you using heat when attempting to remove the bolts? The vertical holes in the intermediate housing that the long bolts go through are tapered, and the taper is much smaller near the bolt head. The holes are about 8mm near the bolt head and about 12mm near the powerhead. Aluminum oxide corrosion binds the bolt shank near the head causing the heads to snap off when attempting to loosen bolts. Threads into the powerhead are almost never cause the bind. Heating the aluminum housing near the bolt heads with acetylene torch or maybe a Mapp gas torch will help. If you apply more than 30ft lbs torque on the bolt heads while the bolt shafts are bound, you will shear off the heads. When you replace the bolts on re-assembly, you can fill the holes in the intermediate housing with silicone. Be sure you replace the shaft with a stainless steel shaft. Yammies before 94 had plain steel shafts which corrode. Shift rod length is different according to shaft length. 25" shaft is called UR Ultra Long shaft, PN 6E5-44120-23-00, 20" shaft is called UR Long, PN 6e5-44120 03-00. Double check these part #'s. These part #'s are for 1995 150, 175, 200 V6 Yamahas which definitely were stainless steel and are otherwise identical to the 84 to 94 regular steel shift rods.

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