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Etec question?
At the end of the season, my friend Lloyd was having problems with his 1987 Wellcraft V20 with a 2008 Evinrude ETEC 200HP, it wouldn't start, then did, wouldn't go over 3,000 rpms. He brought it into the shop and they wanted to know how, at first fresh water got into the head. He told them he didn't know what they was talking about, then he was told it was salt water, so when did the boat sink, well the boat never did sink. After back and forth he was then told, "the motor was seized and Etec has a flaw. Here is what the mechanic said the flaw was, Blow off valve nuts and bolts rust causing it to leak salt water into the engine and the pistons were full of water". The motor is being replace with another 200 HP ETEC, a 2012, so if it is true about that flaw, will this motor have the same defect? Now I have a question, only Rh head/block is being replaced, it has 0 hours on it, but they will still be using his lower unit, could that cause a problem, the lower unit is a 19??. I do not know the year of the lower unit.
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In all cases, there does seem to be some problem with the blow off valve nuts being made of steel and the bolts being made of SS on some models of the etec. From the discussion I'll post here it seems the repair is rather straight forward and sometimes quietly covered by BRP. Check out this link. https://www.etecownersgroup.com/post...-Valve-5620499 |
D, Thanks for the reply. I only know what I was told, they went out fishing and she wouldn't start, started and so on. They took it to the shop the same day or the next and that is what they were told by the owner of the shop in Lindenhurst, Long Island.
I just sent Lloyd an email with your response, lets see if anything else transpired between the mechanic and him or if he has changes. So the Lower unit could not cause the water getting into the pistons? I know it's crazy, but something rolling around in my head. THANKS AGAIN!!! BE SAFE!!!!! |
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The blow off valve opens around 3000-3500 rpm's to bypass the t-stats, and let the engine run cooler. If the valve sticks it can cause overheating, but not put water into the engine. Unless it overheated and blew a headgasket.
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Thanks for the responses and I relayed them to my friend. So now we're hoping this new one works next season.
As you can see I know nothing about O/B's, so here is another stupid question, I told Lloyd to have them run the new one while he was there before he has them winterize it, he said the newer engines winterize themselves, how is that possible, true or false? THANKS AGAIN!!:beer::beer::beer: BE SAFE |
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https://www.outdoorhub.com/how-to/20...0for%20storage. |
Thanks guy's for all your help :beer::beer::beer: and I hope I won't be asking stupid questions again.
BE SAFE!!!! |
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I just hope all the information you provided, that I gave to Lloyd, hope he reads it and has a better understanding on his motor. I just don't know about all this head/head block/upper unit changing & keeping the same lower unit is working. This is his 3rd and every time he's told it has 0 hours on it, but they keep on shutting down? He say's he checks out the numbers on the PC and they are right, so something stinks in Denmark and it isn't the cheese. We shall see how this new one works out next season. Right now it's Lloyd and Sal's problem, they're partners, but Lloyd does all the leg work.
Again thanks for all the help. |
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