Pour able transom
 

Hello everyone,

I have to rebuild the transom, i red, few years ago, something about ceramic pouring. After few research on the site, i can 't locate the thread of it. I'm not sure but i think the best cie for that job is arjaytech ? For those of you who have in mind the thread, can you put it up here ?


Thank you and have a good september on the water !

jeanf, go to the top of the page just about under mj holding the fish tothe search feature and type in arjay. bunch of stuff pops up

good luck

here's the thread on my build.

I used arjay

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...t=17942&page=5

My '84 needs a new transom BAD!...thanks for reposting this!!...might be time to break out the safety goggles and chainsaw!!!

My 84' is due too. I've been trying to play it out in my mind.. If you are planning to dig it out with a chainsaw, how do you plan to get access to the top of the transom? Cap totally off or cutting the cap? Where would you cut?

I am doing mine on my 82 cuddy Outboard. So far I've taken the cap off and chainsawed the wood almost completely out. I drained the bar oil and cleaned it out. I figured I didn't want to have any oil in there that I might have to clean out later. It hasn't been hard this far. Now I am researching which brand to go with.
1. Sea cast seems really thick. I worry about what absorption I will get to any wood that I didn't get out
2. Carbon core is the ceramic from the videos looks like my favorite option. Thinner and would flow better into the tight areas.
3. 3m makes a similar one but its a little cheaper. Nida is the name.
4. Transom repair kit is the one I seen today. It is said that you only need a fraction of the amount the others are claiming. I think it is expandable but I am not sure. I've called the manufacture and am waiting a call or an email back.

Not looking for the cheapest option. Looking for the best option.
I do know I don't want to have wood thou.

Keep us posted on what you choose and let us know how it works and turns out.

Easy enough to follow how to do the actual transom - but what about how it connects to the boat sides ?

Strong, dry transom is good - but unless the fixture / connection to the starboard and port sides also tight and dry............... doesn't seem fully secure.

Please enlighten me.

I think he hollowed out the existing transom so all of the fiberglass is intact along the sides.

I think I'll be doing the same but I don't think I want to remove the entire cap.
I don't want to cut the outer skin either. The transom on V20s are not flat and I don't want to mess with that. That's why pouring a transom seems the way to go.
The problem is getting at the parts of the transom that are under the cap.

Thinking of cutting the cap from the stern up into each hole for the lids, near the hinges, then from the front corner of the lid opening down to the spashwell floor and across. Should come out in one piece.
I THINK that will get me a big opening to access the transom and I will have access to glassing it back together thru the lid openings and the battery door opening. Opinions welcome.....

are you talking about when you cut out the core with a chainsaw, wood drill bit, etc and then pour?