V boats sure are pretty
 

I get complements on my V21 about every time I go fishing.

These boats really are nice looking with a classic style.

Yesterday, Saturday I was SeaBass fishing a spot north of Shark River and there where no less than THREE V boats around me. Close too, maybe a guy or two from this site.

I see how new boat styles have evolved, and ZERO wood construction is definitely the way to go. If the " classic V " ever gets resurrected - a bunch of us could put together a list of how to perfect it !!

While touring the Pursuit factory several years back w/their long time fiberglass construction GURU, I asked why they were still using wood coring material...he answered; I've seen woodless core do some pretty funky things, too...indicating to me that once the seal is compromised, things inside are gonna go in the crapper over time, no matter what they're made of...

Well maybe but the old boats out there with wood, wood, and more wood are a dying breed ..........unless rebuilt.

No matter though, industry techniques move on.............

I'm no boat building fiberglass expert but after rebuilding the cockpit hatches on a Bertram with Coosa board I believe it is the way to go. When I cut the 4'x8' sheet of Coosa to fit the hatches I did it outside because I didn't want the dust in the garage or basement. I left a few scrap pieces of Coosa laying on the ground outside. They layed on the ground in the dirt through rain,snow,slush,sun for over two years and never rotted or delamenated. Honestly I don't think they even absorbed much if any water. Expensive stuff though.

I agree that the V has a certain classy style/look.

I agree with you Inaforty. Coosa is PRICEY but some good stuff. I wonder how UV effects the Coosa. Wherever it gets exposed for very long it turns green, like money.. The floor in my 1983 is coosa as well as all the hatches, the upper portion of the liner and the knee braces. So far so good.

Ridge.
Just out of curiousity what thickness coosa did you use for the floor and hatches.
The balsa in the hatches on the Bertram were rotted so bad it was a mess. I had to use 5/8" to make sure the hatches stay level with the cockpit floor.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...69114-Copy.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...05151252-1.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...3-02163520.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...3-02163610.jpg

I think the key is to do all you can to make sure water never gets to the core, no matter the material...like I KNOW Ridge did...:party:

1/2" for the smaller hatches, 5/8" for the floor and 3/4" for the large deck plate over the fuel tank, IIRC. Knees have 2 layers of 1.5 oz matt sammiched in between two pieces of 3/4" For the hatches I drilled the Coosa and layed it into 2 layers of wet matt before adding weight.
Encapsulated by placing a couple layers of matt on the back of the hatches, two matt and one layer of 24 oz. roven over the floor, about three layers of roven over the knee braces once again layed into matt.

If I had it to do over I would back off the glass/ use 1708 or something similar. I know I am resin rich.

Ridge,
You certainly did over kill. WOW! However you will never have to mess with it again.

Reel,
After speaking with Coosa Composites they said that there is no reason to encapsulate the Coosa board. I did use epoxy and 12oz cloth to encapsulate the mahogany strip that the piano hinged attaches to and a layer in between hatch and Coosa. Hopefully I don't have to repair the hatches again.

From there site..... 45% lighter than plywood, no rot or insect infestation, doesn't not attract mold or fungas, less than 1% water retention, density like plywood

i was thinking of trying nidacore on my hatches a fellow at the local shop uses it and has had good luck with it. he also uses coosa no problems with eather.