Rigging Tube Split
 

My rigging tube (black vacuum-like hose from transom to engine) split. It seems like the repair will involve taking off the wiring harness from the engine ('08 Optimax 150). Can anyone give me a degree of difficulty or any tips on removing the wiring harness? And getting it back on! Thanks, I'm somewhat of a novice relative to others on this site.

2 words ...... duct tape!! LOL, just kidding....sorry I can't really answer your question either. :zip: Hopefully somebody can.

BLACK duct tape.... :party:

Welcome to the site MuttonSnapper. We are all novices at one time or another. As to your question on removing the wires, although I cannot speak from direct experience on your particular engine, I can say that if your engine is like most of the engines I've worked on through the years they were all made to simply plug into a connector. Usually just 3 main wires.. One battery positive, One battery negative and a bundled cable that plugged into the engine's electrical system. Simple stuff really. About a 2 on a scale of 1 to 10. Some of the other guys on here have direct experience on your engine and I'm sure they will be happy to answer your question accurately.

MuttonSnapper post some pics of the harness, rigging tube, boat, motor, speed numbers (:sly:) etc.

If you are running the SmartCraft its all fly by wire. Follow the wires where they come out the rigging tube, and mark, then unplug them. Disconnect the negative battery cable first. Maybe RidgeRunner will be able to help out, as he has a 250XS.

don't the shift and throttle cables go thru there too?:head:

That adds a little to the difficulty in that you need to make sure they are still adjusted right at the completion of the project. I'll have to defer to someone with a Merc on that...

If he is running SmartCraft its all digital, no cables.

on my boat i bought a rigging sleeve, made from sunbrella cloth. it just zippers on! worked out great! the only thing is you have to make sure you clean it and lube the zipper so it will always work, or it will be junk when you have to remove it.

http://www.gandermountain.com/modper...ID=GSHOP_83058

https://a248.e.akamai.net/f/248/9086...8_L1?$product$

I would go with a split loom setup so you don't have to pull everything out. I have something like this on my McKee and it works great.

http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/RountIt2000.php

It's easy to work with, UV resistant and looks nice and clean.

-Svence

MJ that sunbrella rigging tube is brilliant. I did not know that even existed. Seems better than a hard flexible rigging tube because it wont mar the surace it sags on.

The Optimax 150 probably does not have the fly-by wire so then you have to do the throttle & shift cables as well. Still not as bad as it might seem. Battery cables, main harness and secondary Smartcraft harness if installed, pitot tube for speedometer or manual water pressure (if equipped) throttle & shift cables. If you don't spin the adjustment barrels on the control cables it should fall back in place without further adjustment. Adjustments for timing and link and sync are quite simple on an Optimax, there aren't any.. it is purely done by the computer.
All the modern Opti's can use the Smartcraft Gauges but Smartcraft does not necessarily mean it is fly-by- wire. The motors that are fly-by wire will be designated DTS - I assume it to stand for "Digital Throttle and Shift".
MJ has the best idea I have seen in a while. Xcept for the zipper, maybe use some HD Velcro?