Spraying ether to start
 

How can I spray ether into the carbs without removing the air silencer on a 1994 150 HP Ocean Pro 60 Degree Looper

Ain't that cover held with 4 elastic straps?
I'd pull it off to make sure you got the spray into the throats instead of piling more than needed in there. Might need more than one or two shots, as much as I hate that stuff.
Be sure to remove/reinstall the upper and lower 1/4" tubing to the cover.

I remember hearing that you can use wd40 instead of ether for the same effect plus less harmful. Is that true?

We used to use WD-40 to start worn out old 2-smoke dirt bikes that had really low compression. The propellant worked like ether and the oil in it helped seal up the rings and boost compression.

I think they changed the propellant at some point and according to Wikipedia it is now CO2 so it would be useless as a starting fluid nowadays.

Doesn't ether wipe the oil off of the cylinders in 2 stroke engines? Could cause damage.

I wouldn't use it unless its a last resort, find out why you're having to use ether to start it, go ahead and pull the carb cover off, check the choke and/or primer circut for proper operation

I wouldn't use real ether to start a 2 stroke unless you want a window in the side of the block. I've seen it done and it popped back through the intake which caused it to combust in the crankcase and blew the block wide open. Use WD-40 for an emergency starting aid, but you shouldn't need it as the primer has a manual function in it for starting.

seen some stuff at west marine last time i went was designed for 2-cycle outboards. cant remember the name at the moment, will look when i go again. but i agree, if you have to spray starting fluid in it to get her going theres a problem, i keep a can of ether in the boat just in case on the water. low compression can cause starting difficulties, but once the pistons warm up they expand and get a better seal so it can run right warm, but might be a beast to start cold. ether burns hotter so warms it up quick. there are probably other things that cause it, just speaking from my own engine experience.

went down today using my Seloc manual disconnected the Black Yellow single pin plug at the power pack, engine started right up and ran fine, I couldn't stop it unless I plugged it back in. Unless I am reading the book wrong ( which very well could be ) this means either my Emergency kill switch or my ignition switch is bad correct? Can anyone verify this for me?

Three quarters of the time the problem is not the switch itself but the devise on the lanyard (whatever that is called) that is removable in a man overboard situation.
With age it tends to warp just enough to cause the switch to activate.

And yes I think you are on the right track, ignition switch or kill switch problem.