Plugs
 

Question,
I pull my plugs for a check and here is the results. Plugs pictured are left to right 1234 , One and Two clearly shows some excessive oiling, I am not sure about three and four.
These are NGK Plugs gap at .40. In my opinion I will not use em again , I notice they run COLD at WOT around max 130 degrees. Reason for the oil on the plugs ?
Ferm and I discuss a while back and he recommend I go Champion Ql77jc4 gap at .35
I have since installed the champions.
I will post the results after a couple of runs.
In the mean time any thoughts on the condition of the plugs? Should I be worried ?
http://i527.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/DSC_0586.jpg
http://i527.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/DSC_0588.jpg
http://i527.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/DSC_0581.jpg

What had you been doing with the engine prior to pulling these? If idling and no running above 1500-2000 then #3 concerns me the most followed by #2. A looper should be almost black and slightly wet at the plugs from idling, and burn a brown color when running along. How many hours were on them? The whiteish on #3 would concern me as that is signs of a lean looper. And a lean looper will run like a scalded dog, but not for long. Run the champions and check them after a few mid range runs. Also try running her at 4500 for about a minute and shut her off, then go back and pull the plugs and check em. Cruising and top end is where jetting is CRUCIAL on a looper, idle is hard to judge as a looper is pretty ineffecient below 2500 or so RPM's. The older engines actually do better at idle, but from cruise on up a looper is the winner.

re
 

Ferm,
My second to last run was WOT for about 30 plus minutes then idle to port about a 1/4 mile, my last run was 8 on board no WOT just maybe 4000 for 5 minutes then idle 1/4 mile to port.
I can literally smell and sense the engine loading up during the idle to port both times if that helps.
I will give your test a try and post the results .

Update
 

I took the boat out all seems well so far with the new plugs, I did the 4500 RPM test like Ferm mentioned.
However on my way back to the Dock in a very ugly way the engine died completely.
I did a spark test no spark, looks like I fried the pack.
Question may be silly however have anyone see this before ?

It happens sometimes. You have to remember that the pack could be 20+ years old and it may just have been it's time. Before you condemn the pack though, unhook the ignition klill wire from it and see if your spark comes back.

Ferm,
Is that the Black/Yellow wire ?
Also its a new pack I installed last year, however it was the pack on there with the bad trigger/stator !

Yep, disconnect the black with yellow tracer and then re-test. I've seen ALOT more failed ignition switches than packs, and many times I've seen a pack get replaced only to find out the ignition switch was the origanal problem. I've got all of the test tools for the CDI if you get stumped on it.

don't forget to check the kill switch if you have one

Update
 

Ferm,
Once again thanks a million. I did exactly what you suggested, bingo its firing like an Iraqi shooting tracers!
I do not have a emergency kill switch installed, I however have all new wires and key switch , I am thinking key switch plastic crap I picked up at Boaters World
My Key Switch is indeed exposed to elements rain, wash down and may have malfunction ?

sounds liek you have it nailed down