Pourable stringers & Transom?
 

I've looked at a lot of info on this site, and about every other boating site concerning the pourable fillers for transoms. I've done a couple transoms and hate to put more termite food in the core. I know seacast says their product can also be used as a filler for stringers, but are there any long term examples of this repair succeeding? On some other sites I've seen reports of cracked transoms, then finding the filler separated from the inner and outer skin and pulverized in spots when inspected. I have actually helped build a solid fiberglass transom on a 23 footer and wonder if that isn't the right way to do a forever repair.

Several boat mfgrs are leaving core material out all together and molding a hollow stringers...l imagine some critical engineering goes into this to do it successfully, but my point is if the stringer side-walls and existing joints where the stringers meet the hull are still intact, the core material isn't the structural factor once thought...

there is a patiicular boat that I've been watching for several years, waiting for teh right time to purchase it, that will require a transom and stringers. I've been formulating all kinds of ideas to go about the repairs. There used to be a company named compsys that had foam stringers with teh glass stiched on them, you just called them up, gave them the dimensions and they sent you what you needed. You position them in place, applied the resin and it was done, its not cheap though. My second idea was to cut the very top off the stringers, dig the rotted wood out. Cut pieces of coosa or penske board to fit inside the existing void, glue them in with epoxy or arjay, then lay more glass over the top and down the sides. If the existing glass is in good shape, why cut it out

solid glass is to heavy for transoms is the reason boat companys don't do that. weight and gas mileage don't mix.

That 23 footer with the solid glass transom was a Formula. The only core in the Formula was in the flat raised area where the sterndrives were previously. We built the motor well for a single 25" outboard and the sides of the well to connect the transom to the main stringers. Probably on 1/3 the area of the transom was involved. I agree that the full transom on a V20 or 248 would really be heavy in solid glass.

I haven't done the numbers on weight of solid glass versus arjay or seacast, but I've also heard the seacast transom is heavy. Just debating the idea, but it's hard to see how another 40 or 50 pounds in the stern will hurt anything. Yes, the solid glass transom would be heavy, but factor in the weight of 2 sheets of 3/4 ply and subtract that from the weight of solid glass and you're not that far off. I know it's labor intensive, but we don't work on old boats because it's easy. Is seacast anything more than "bondo"?

Arjay
 

Here is the link for and Data sheet for Arjay. I pour my Transom using this, Check it out or call the Company they can email you additional information.
http://www.arjaytech.com/products/DS/ds60.htm

Stringers are fine the way they are. They just use the wood as a mold to wrap.

As far as the Seacast separating from the liner, I am sure its all in the prep, it says it will not stick to wood, so if you don't get it all out your not going to get a good bond.

Seacraft is all glass except the transom i thought i heard?

I had a friend that had a Formula that he totally redid and used the foam filled stringers that were mentioned and they worked great!!

I have not suffered any ill affects from weight with my Arjay transom and my 88' has the big notched transom that is larger that earlier model V's. Is it heavier - I don't know. Is it an issue - not at all.

Maury

I remember seeing/ reading a thread on the classic mako site where the last 18" to 20" of the stringers were rotted on an old mako. he took the dimensions on the core and made a mold out of waxed wood. Laid up glass around the mold,let it cure and removed the wood and bonded that for the last 3 feet, then drilled small holes in the top and poured foam for filler. foam was not structual, but kept water out of the void...