Here we go!
 

Well, finally de-rigged my boat today. The transom isn't too bad, but I think it warrants repair.

Here is a pic of the slight damage
http://s278.photobucket.com/albums/k...h_100_0306.jpg

http://s278.photobucket.com/albums/k...h_100_0305.jpg

Here is the proposed cut out.
http://s278.photobucket.com/albums/k...h_100_0307.jpg
http://s278.photobucket.com/albums/k...h_100_0310.jpg

So???? Suggestions, advise, anything to keep me from making a malor disaster out of a manageable problem would be appreciated. Thanks Guys.

Wow, pics are small. First timer, now headed to the how-to section.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...e/100_0306.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...e/100_0307.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...e/100_0305.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...e/100_0310.jpg

Much Better!

:oh:
Sorry, I can't bring myself to cutting the outside skin and will avoid cutting the interior one as well. I like the idea of keeping them intact.
Accessing thru the top of the transom is exceptionally labor intensive, but to me helps provide a little extra support.
Good luck with the project.

Keep posting pics and ideas, I think I may be the next one to have a go at it. Keeping both skins uncut sounds like what I would want to do. Good Luck.

Here's my advice . . . Slap an aluminum plate on that transom and go fishing for this season (maybe next year too). Fix it this winter or next. Don't even seal up the wood . . . you want it to get wet so it'll rot and be easier to yank out later on. It's plenty strong enough to hold that motor!!!

I'm not a glass guy and I don't play one on the internet. But I have seen the rear skin job first hand though on my last V20. IMO If done right it will be just as strong or stronger than not cutting either skin from what I saw.

The guy that did mine didn't cut the skin, he ground it down to nothing all the way around, close to where you have yours marked. Then the outter skin came off and he prepped everything for "glue and screw". The difference was my wood was good but the idiot that did it before me DID NOT BOND THE OUTTER SKIN TO THE WOOD.

Got the outter skin glued and screwed back on, then its just a matter of building up layers over the part that was ground out in order to re-attach the skin. Then some fairing and sanding and done.

It would seem to me that just going in from the top it would be harder to get the best bond. But like I said, this was my only experience so I haven't seen other methods in person. When he got done you couldn't tell it had been touched and it was very solid. Solid enough for the new owner to hang a 200 johnyrude.

Wish I had pics but I don't.

I took my boat apart and fixed it from the inside and avoided having to repair the outside but my boat was a CC. We had the boat apart in one weekend and it was pretty easy. This also gives you access to inspect the runners and if you have any soft spots in the flooring you can repair it from the under side and avoid additional cutting.

Allright, what about the pictures and progress so far??:bat:

Well,......The only sign of rot is a 2" x 1" spot right on the top of the transom. I jumped on the cavitation plate of the old motor before I took it off. I'm basically wussing out at the last minute. I ordered the fixed jack plate that Tsubaki showed me and I am fabricating an aluminum cap/plate to cover the dip in the transom. I figure that I can have it up and running quickly this way. Even if it's a temporary set up, I am itching to get this boat back on the water to chase some halibut and rock cod. If it gets me through summer it's well worth it to me. I WILL be doing this transom the correct way at a later time. I know, I know -what a wuss.

Well since we are on the same time table I am sticking with you. Leave the ***** in the water and enjoy her, worry about it this winter. Thanks.

Progress reports and pictures still expected.

I did mine from the inside. Alot of hard work. I would actually use that pour in seacast stuff next time. seems to save lots of time.

PLEASE see my post for my transom repair. You have the perfect canidate with the lower older style transom. If done right you will be very happy with no patch lines in the outter or inner hull.

You can call me and I'd be happy to tell you about my experience.

Maury
225-767-1773 (H)

maury's thread
 

It's 1000X's easier to hit the boat from the backside. If you cut that transom your done for this year. An Aluminum plate will get you out fishing for albacore and you can worry about the transom in 5years. Your transom just has a little rot at the top.



http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/...430_Medium.jpg
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/...434_Medium.jpg
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/...472_Medium.jpg
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/...nsom_color.jpg
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/...486_Medium.jpg
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/...504_Medium.jpg
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/...506_Medium.jpg
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/...553_Medium.jpg
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/...592_Medium.jpg

Maury, thanks for the imput. I have read your thread about half a dozen times, and you did a great job with that transom. I will be doing my transom, but not until after this season. It is really in good shape and I want to get the boat going. BigShrimp- thanks for the vote of confidence in the transom.I was thinking the same thing and you just solidified my desision. I will post pics of my minor fabrication work after I'm done.

Nice photos bigshrimpin, I am scared to tackle this project. Looks like you did everything right. I wuold have gone for St. Pauli Girl beer before a Heini but you did great work for the tools you had at hand.

Me too, I grit my teeth when see'in a stern cut like that.
Just shows my inadequite fiberglass ability.
GREAT WORK, bs.