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-   -   Hey Lumber (https://forums.wmpdevserver1.com/community/showthread.php?t=9254)

garagenc 04-13-2008 07:52 PM

Hey Lumber
 
My teak runners for my sliding hatch need refinishing. How did you go about doing yours? Mine hasn't been done in about 10 years.
thanks garage

lumberslinger178 04-13-2008 08:18 PM

garagenc, I dont have a cuddy but all my teak was taken off sanded oiled then starbrite teak sealer ........ color classic teak......

garagenc 04-13-2008 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lumberslinger178 (Post 118071)
garagenc, I dont have a cuddy but all my teak was taken off sanded oiled then starbrite teak sealer ........ color classic teak......

When you say oiled, what do you mean. I have NO experience with teak.
thanks

jasoncooperpcola 04-13-2008 08:44 PM

My name isn't Lumber but i can help you out a little bit. But, I dont own my V-20 anymore though.:cry: All the teak on my 250 Sportsman was very grey and soft. I honestly dont think its been oiled since it left Wellcraft. I found that for anything over a half inch thick the best cure was to sand it down with 80 grit paper then wire brush bleach into the deep ground in crap and let it sit. I would then wire brush it then wash it off again and sand it again. I had pictures of everything on the boat when i got it but my boss lost them in his computer. But everything ended up looking a helluva lot better than it did before. I ended up making a new splashwell board, the old one is WHITE. Also for all the cockpit trim i'm gonna have to resaw a peice of teak down to make new trim. The old stuff was only 1/4 inch thick and when i finally sanded all the grey off it was a little over an 1/8" thick. Its amazing how new or refinished teak makes the boat look totally different. Also on some teak i'm planning to use Spar Varnish to do the final coat.

lumberslinger178 04-13-2008 08:46 PM

:beer:starbrite teak oil .......... as many coats as you have time for .... then sealer also as many as you have time for:beer:

jasoncooperpcola 04-13-2008 09:48 PM

I've been using the Interlux Teak Oil. I think the only difference is price. Lumber i bought 52 linear feet of new Brazilain teak, and made a new splashwell board out of it, i put two coats of oil on it do you think it needs more? I plan to spar varnish it tomorrow.

Airslot 04-14-2008 07:28 AM

Lumber, I'm not sure I understand? Then again, I'm just a dummy. How about I take mine off and ship it to ya, then you can just polish mine up without having to go through all the aggravation of explaining it yet again:hi:

nipper 04-14-2008 07:43 AM

JasonC, I do not think you want to use varnish over teak oil. I do not think it will stick. I always thought you went with teak oil, which would need more cleaning and re-oiling, or varnish, which might last a little longer but would also require periodic maintenance.

nipper 04-14-2008 07:44 AM

For my money, I like Sikkens Cetol Marine finish for my teak. It has a slightly orangish tint compared to varnish, but it really looks and holds up great.

garagenc 04-14-2008 08:25 PM

Thanks everyone, but I guess what ya'll are saying is sand the chit out of it and then oil the h%ll out of it and then put multiple coats of sealer on it. While I'm waiting on these coats to dry maybe I can have multiple orga$ms with the Main Muff!!

lumberslinger178 04-14-2008 08:37 PM

yea I wouldnt varnish it unless i was useing mahogany , with the teak its a naturally oily wood,,,,,, back in the day they would make clock parts from teak because they stayed oily


Iam in to process of finishing mine now tomorrow i'll take some snap shots.

Air for you I'll do it .....lol .... send it up brother:clap::beer:

spareparts 04-14-2008 09:28 PM

as odd as it sounds, I've seen profesional detail people apply oil based varnish over oiled teak, I would never have thought it would work. Go to wooden boats web site and see if you can do a search for teak refinishing, you may have to pay a fee for the info( bunch of tight wad stick boaters) from their archives, but it might be worth it

lumberslinger178 04-14-2008 09:47 PM

spare it probably would work but when it comes time for refinishing its a pain I bet cause it would all have to be sanded completely:head:

lumberslinger178 04-15-2008 05:48 PM

heres my teak

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...8/DSC05442.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...8/DSC05441.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...8/DSC05443.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...8/DSC05444.jpg

And the seats next to one of the weathered ones....

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...8/DSC05445.jpg

lumberslinger178 04-15-2008 05:50 PM

and the secret ingredient

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...8/DSC05440.jpg

garagenc 04-15-2008 08:40 PM

Thanks Now I Have A Pic Of What I Need To Buy.

willy 04-15-2008 10:32 PM

nice work Lumber, how come you don't post the childlabor involved:you:

lumberslinger178 04-16-2008 06:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by willy (Post 118262)
nice work Lumber, how come you don't post the childlabor involved:you:

LOL my child labor is turning 14 and dosent want to help as much anymore:head:

willy 04-16-2008 11:40 AM

Oh I know all about that too

jasoncooperpcola 04-16-2008 11:15 PM

I've been stripping varnish! One of the steps got hit by something in the tool box and it looks like the varnish literally shattered! I used a wood chisel and stripped the varnish off with absolutely no problem what so ever. I'll go buy some of Lumber's secret weapon this friday. Thankfully i only varnished one rod holder, one side of the splashwell board, and a the steps going down into the cabin. Wait a minute, which one do i buy? He had a can of 'classic teak" teak oil, a can of "natural light' teak oil and a can of 'dunkin donuts" teak oil. :bat:

lumberslinger178 04-17-2008 06:49 AM

classic teak


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