Vro
 

I know this has come up way more then once sorry!!
I tried to search fro the step by step process to disconnecting the VRO, but couldn't find it. MJ I know I have heard you say you have disconnected many before. what is the step by step process. I have the idea, but I don't want to miss any thing.

almost forgot it's a 86 200xp evinrude
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/album15/Engine

thanks guys

Some have simply capped and unplugged (which usually causes the alarm horn to go off) leaving the fuel pump portion to work and mixing the fuel manually.
When I got my motor, the VRO had been replaced with an electric fuel pump. We removed that and replaced it with the pre 2 fuel pump situation.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture032.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture042.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture037.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...i3/convert.gif


http://www.brp.com/en-US/Related.Products/Parts.htm

Depending on the year or powerhead type you may have to add nipples to the powerhead if replacing completely. Sometimes they are capped or plugged, sometimes you have to thread the location.
I would try first disconnection and capping the oil portion (don't forget to mix the fuel now) to see if you have to go any farther.

Go to this link, 1/2 way down the page it will tell you what you need to do, with pic's!! From the pro's :beer:


http://wellcraftv20.com/community/sh...connect&page=2

DAM Skools, you know your S%@*!! Like the pics too

Thanks MJ I tried to find a thread like that but didn't hit the right one I guess.

Thanks a lot.

One more question.

whats the difference between a looper and a crossflow??

Again 1/2 way down with pic's!!

http://wellcraftv20.com/community/sh...ossflow+looper

Yep Mj pretty well got ya covered. Is that a real 200XP, or just an XP cover? If it is an XP you got yourself a real beast hangin off your transom man. Those engines came with the BIGGEST carbs ever offered on a V-6 looper stock. And have some real potential.

Not sure. It's a new to me boat. Only had it a year, and haven't really had to do much with the motor. how do you tell?

The 200 GT and XP's had some monster carbs on them for starters. And they ran 14 degrees of timing instead of 18. I couldn't make out from your picture wether it said 14BTDC or 18BTDC. But the carbs is the great decider. The XP and GT's had some MONSTER carbs on them, like these.

http://i7.ebayimg.com/02/i/000/e7/68/4a71_1.JPG

thanks MJ and yes it says 14* BTC so most liekly a XP motor wow

I'm using one of them there old crappy CRT monitors, so I can't make out that many details in pictures. But a true XP is a rarety anymore. I had a chance to buy 2 of them one time, but it was before I knew what they were:nut:. If I still could get them now, he only wanted $700 for 2 complete engines. One of them needed 2 pistons, and the other ran.

i have 2 sets of XP carbs. they have hugh throats on them suckers.

wow thanks guys.
I guess this opens a whole new door. My question now is one how do I protect it (what should I be looking for problems wise).

Then what should I do about the VRO. I've tried to read an much on them as I can, and I think I understand what they are all about. Not knowing the history of the motor I just want to make sure everything is working right.

I've done the lower gear oil
rebuilt the carbs
changed the impeller
starting silanoid

I was thinking of ordering new thermos

anything else?

I know boats enough to get by (sailed all my life), but not motors

Thanks a lot.

Being an 86 it may need the updated T-stats in it. Ditch the VRO and cap the oil inlet off with the OMC cap, and pre-mix it 50:1. It'll be a little smoky at idle, but the mosquitos will hate you:clap:. Also make sure that the valve on the throttle linkage that has lines hooked to it is good and leaking. T-stats and that valve play a HUGE part in how well these engines idle, or how HORRIBLE some of them can idle. Most people overlook this area for engine performance concerns.

THANKS!!!
I was looking online and found these? I just want to double check the part numbers and if you guys know of a cheaper place before I order them.

http://www.dixiemarinesales.com/detail.aspx?ID=55





I can't thank you guys enough.
Any time your in Maine beers and fishing on me:beer:

If your going to the trouble to change the thermostats, might as well change the temperature (overheat) sensors.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture205.jpg
replacing it and t-stats.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture300.jpg

That's a good price for the complete assembly. Don't forget the diaphrams/gasket's though. These will crack and cause the T-stats to not seat inside. You may also want to pull the old T-stats out first and check the condition of the rubber seals inside of the heads.

You have the wrong motor for him yours is a cross flow not even close to his. he has a looper with a totally different t-stat and head set up.


don't run 50:1 if you plan on running your motor at higher RPM's the VRO motors at 4000 RPM and above were oiled at 40:1 so best off to run 40 :1 premix with oil for safety

You know , it would have helped if I read the first post AND followed the link to his motors picture.
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/...gine.sized.jpg
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/...ine2.sized.jpg

Thanks Skools. Tsubaki Thanks for the help anyways.

I ordered the t-stats last night with the new gaskets.

I'm starting to work on a lot of other things too.

Moving the batteries forward
finishing the new deck I put on last year.
painting the hull
VRO will be gone (thanks to you guys)
New sound system
new springs/axels/tires/bunk brackets
t-stats/lower gear oil/ decarb/
new to me gps
maybe a fishfinder if the gov check really does come though

wow thats more then I thought now that I list it.


THANKS