trailer brakes
 

Im pricing out a new brake job for my tandem axle trailer. It came with some rusted out drums and a froze up accuator cylinder. I figure I can replace the master cyl for 60.00 and upgrade to disc on one axle for about 320.00. I guess thats not to bad to be able ta stop safely. Ya'll got any suggestions, I'm all ears!

http://www.northerntool.com/images/p.../124964_lg.gif
Tie Down Disc Brake Assembly for 5 Lugs — 10in.

Stainless steel trailer disc brakes have aluminum calipers, bronze pistons and a painted steel hub and stainless steel rotor assembly. Noncorrosive. Assembled and pre-greased complete with bearings and seals. Ready for retrofitting drum brakes or for new installation. Order two per axle. Mfg. part# 81101. 1 year warranty. U.S.A.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...t_6970_801_801

Rip them out throw them away!! Less problems!!

I have never had a working pair for long!! Just a PIA!! My 23 Sea Ox doesn't have them and never will!!

Besides there is nothing like the feeling of slamming the breaks and looking up say a prayer your going to stop!! :nut:

Never...NEVER put tie down disk brakes on your trailer. IF your going disks, go Kodiak. Otherwise, junk em. I like having trailer brakes personally, and went Kodiak about over a year ago. Trouble free so far. There is a thread on the swap in the projects section.

'Slot

no brakes on my trailer:beer:

I drive way to crazy to not have trailor brakes!

Air, help me out here.
I don't have brakes either but thought this would be a perfect upgrade being stainless and all.
Hows about some info on the Kodiak system and the negetive aspects of the tie downs.

Hey C

Check out Portsmouth trailer sales, about 6 years ago I had to change my drum brakes and I just bought the replacement shoes. By the time I changed over and replaced the rusted parts I only saved about $15.00 each side.

Justa a thought but if you can't afford stainless then just buy the complete changeout assembly, unbolt 4 bolts and the brake line and slap the new ones in place.

http://www.etrailerpart.com/images/discbrakes.jpg

http://www.championtrailers.com/5lugdscbrkALL..gifhttp://www.championtrailers.com/index.html


TIE DOWN ENGINEERING® STAINLESS
DISC BRAKE HUB - ROTOR UNITS

TIE DOWN ENGINEERING®
5 LUG STAINLESS DISC BRAKES

• INCLUDES HUB/ROTOR (WITH BEARINGS 68149 AND 44649) SEAL, LUG NUTS, AND DUSTCAP.
  
  
• EDC POWDER COATED 403 ALUMINUM CALIPER WITH BRONZE PISTONS.
  
  
• HOT DIP GALVANIZED 4 ON 4 ADAPTER PLATE WITH STAINLESS MOUNTING BOLTS.
  
  
• FITS 1 3/8 x 1 1/16 SPINDLES.
  
  
• REPLACES 10" DRUM BRAKES.

http://www.championtrailers.com/5lugdscbrkALL..gif(SEE HOW TO MEASURE A 5 LUG HUB)TWO BRAKE UNITS REQUIRED PER AXLEPART # 3287WT 23#PRICE PER WHEEL. $102.95


TIE DOWN ENGINEERING®
6 LUG STAINLESS DISC BRAKES

• INCLUDES HUB/ROTOR (WITH BEARINGS 25580 AND 15123) SEAL, LUG NUTS, AND DUSTCAP.
  
  
• EDC POWDER COATED 403 ALUMINUM CALIPER WITH BRONZE PISTONS.
  
  
• HOT DIP GALVANIZED 4 ON 4 ADAPTER PLATE WITH STAINLESS MOUNTING BOLTS.
  
  
• FITS 1 3/4 x 1 1/4 SPINDLES.
  
  
• REPLACES 12" DRUM BRAKES

http://www.championtrailers.com/6lugdscbrkALL.gifTWO BRAKE UNITS REQUIRED PER AXLEPART # 3288WT 28#PRICE PER WHEEL $144.95
TIE DOWN ENGINEERING®
REPLACEMENT 5 LUG
HUB ROTORWITH BEARINGS

• INCLUDES:
  
  
  • GALVANIZED HUB W/ STAINLESS ROTOR
    (WITH BEARINGS #68149 AND #44649)
    
    
  • DOUBLE LIP SEAL (#171255TB)
    
    
  • DUSTCAP
    
    
  • 5 - 1/2 x 20 LUG NUTS
    
    

http://www.championtrailers.com/5lugdscbrk..gif(SEE HOW TO MEASURE A 5 LUG HUB)PART# 0134WT 20#PRICE EA. $71.95


TIE DOWN ENGINEERING®
REPLACEMENT 6 LUG
HUB ROTOR WITH BEARINGS

• INCLUDES:
  
  
  • PAINTED HUB W/ STAINLESS ROTOR
    
    
  • BEARINGS #25580 AND #15123
    
    
  • DOUBLE LIP SEAL (#22333TB)
    
    
  • DUSTCAP
    
    
  • 6- 1/2 x 20 LUG NUTS

NOTE - #22333 - 2.25" ID SEAL IS STANDARD.
YOUR SPINDLE MAY USE A 2.125" ID SEAL - CHECK SEAL SEAT DIAMETER.
IF YOUR SPINDLE SEAL SEAT DIAMETER IS
2.125, BE SURE TO LET THE SALES PERSON
KNOW TO REPLACE THE #22333 SEAL WITH
THE #21333 SEAL.
http://www.championtrailers.com/6lugdscbrk.gifPART# 0137WT 23#PRICE EA. $99.95

OK, the appeared differences.
Kodiak, less than $400 per side. Tie Down over $100 per side.
Both have stainless rotors.
Kodiak has a stainless caliper and mounting plate with galvanized hub.
Tie Down has an aluminum caliper with a galvanized mounting plate and hub.
Both appear to mount the same.

Any other differances?

Thanks fellas, Ive looked at all the above and was wondering which were best without breaking the bank. Im pulling my V with a tacoma, and I can pull it ok but catch hell stopping it. I definately need some brakes! I cant afford a bigger truck right now, got one daughter in college and paying for my wifes forerunner. Id like a new Tundra, but will have ta wait a while yet. Ill let you all know which brakes I go with. Dont use it in salt water much.
:hi:

I put Tie Downs on all 4 of mine and have REGRETTED it ever since...just say no to Tie Down and get the Kodiaks...Tie Downs are MICKEY MOUSE brakes...they happen to make a good actuator, the 6000, but their disc brakes SUCK OUT LOUD...:cen:

Reel, what was the problem with them?
The aluminum caliper seems to be the only negetive part of the system.

That caliper is about the only thing that's held up...pads don't drift away from rotors as they should...can hear them from inside the truck (windows down)...wear and drag...pistons hang up, boots shot...trust me...just go Kodiak and avoids probs...even when they're workin' right, they don't seem to have a lot of braking power...

Sorry, been busy. The tiedown's biggest problem from what I've seen with my own eyes are their calipers and the mounting brackets. I see mess of these brakes as they are on most new trailers now. I work in a large waterfront community. So many people launch in the spring and park the trailer till fall. Many of them return to seized calipers.

I went with the S-Cad Kodiaks, and they still look new after 50 or so cycles.


'Slot

I'm not a big fan of brakes for a boat of that size but I have never really had a time where I had to slam on the brakes. Sense the boat is not that big could you just add brakes to the two front tires on each side and not all four?

Most all just have brakes on the front axle.

That was my next question, which axle ta put em on. I guess the weight transfer to the front makes putting em on the front axle the preferred choise. Iv gotta order a new master cylinder for my DICO coupler and I'll go with the Kodiak disc for the front axle. Thanks for all the information. Its really helped me alot!!

O give me a brake!!

Get it :beer:

Well I finally ordered a pair of Kodiak SCAD disc brakes for my trailer monday. I got them today, talk about fast these folks are on time.I ordered them from Custom Hitch & Trailer out of Naples Florida. I got hubs with rotors, calipers,ceramic pads, all the wheel brgs and seals and mounting bolts,even got lug nuts for $199.95. Looks like a hell of a deal ta me! Also ordered a reverse lockout solenoid to go behind the acuator for $29.95. Now I gotta take time to mount em up and Ill be ready!
:sun:

Sounds like a great deal!! Compared to other prices I have heard of.

But I just did all my hubs and bearings and riped all the breaks out!! I hate to deal with them they always messing up!


Good Luck!

I did Tie Downs on all 4 wheels several years back...they are moderately effective when all work and all work not too often...they are Mickey Mouse brakes and should be avoided at all cost....Go Kodiak...I hear good stuff about 'em and can only say bad stuff about Tie Downs from 1st hand experience:nut::nut::nut::nut::nut::nut::nut::nut:

Well I mounted my new Kodiak disc hubs,rotors and calipers on the front axle today. I ran all new brake lines all the way out to the coupler. Ive gotta new reverse lockout solenoid and will be getting a new acuator maybe this week. The rotors and calipers mounted really easy, looks good so far.:sun:

Glad it's coming together as planned.

But I guess we'll just have to take your word that it "looks good so far" since we don't have any pics :-) hint, hint... :-)

:thre:

I know I know, my hands were so greasy when I finished ,my wife woulda kicked my a$$ if Ida touched her camera. When I get it all together Ill see what I can do about some pics!:fam:

My trailer has the Kodiak brakes. Have worked great. Excellent stopping power but I've got them on both axles and my boat's heavier than a V20. Have had no problems yet. Trailer was made in 04 and has been from florida to arizona then back to Texas where I've pulled it about 1000 miles so far. Gonna hate giving up the aluminum framed, torsion axled, disc braked trailer when I move to the next boat.

I got a new Titan acuator Wednesday. I bolted it on and hooked up the brake line and reverse solenoid wire to my reverse light circuit. I couldnt get them to bleed out, so I checked back here where Airslot did his brake job. Found out I had the same trouble you did Air! I was reaching over the tire and turning the whole two piece bleeder valve. I took off both tires and looked , and the bleeder is screwed into an adapter fitting thats screwed into the caliper.Once I found this out bleeding them only took a few minutes. If anybody needs brakes these are the real chit. They really work GREAT!!!Man, I CAN STOP NOW!!!:party: Thanks Airslot, I owe ya one!!!

:beer:

CFelton, did you order these from their Ebay store? If not, how did you get that price? I think I need to buy a set :-( Apparently, I can't get my trailer registered unless the brakes are working. I was going to remove them completely, but I'm told that if the trailer came with them from the factory, then they need to be working to get the trailer registered...

Could you take them off and play dumb when they ask if the trailer came with brakes? I've had to deal with the MD dmv a couple times for my wife who's from there originally....THEY SUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!

BGA. I called and ordered them over the phone. I saw the set on their ebay store.They shipped them out really fast.:hi:

thanks C,

they sold me a set for $210, which is still a great deal and you're right, they got here fast. I hope to install them in a couple of weeks...