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 Teak treatment question 
		
		
		Hey guys I have all the accent/trim pieces from my V fisherman in my garage ready to be cleaned and polished. I must say that I don’t want to stain the wood… Now comes the big questions, what product you guys use to clean teak other than the orbital sander and what marine polyurethane will hold best? Thanks Joe  | 
		
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		I usually scrub it with an all purpose cleaner called Greased Lightning. After it dries I apply teak oil, and after that dries I'll varnish it. It usually takes about five or six coats of varnish.  
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		Sikkens Cetol Marine Light is your friend. It's so much easier to apply than varnish. Did all of my sanding with random orbit sander. 
	http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8...0/DSCF1375.jpg  | 
		
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		you can thin urathan with acetone and then several coats after cleaning the teak.  
	http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a46...21Boat-256.jpg  | 
		
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		Cetol Marine Light will last 4 times longer than any other coating I know of. Looks great too! Regular Cetol Marine is too dark for my taste. I have tried most of the other varnish and urethane products such as Epiphanes, Flagship, Helmsman, etc. etc. and with them you are stripping and re-finishing every other year at best. The reason I have alot of experience with finishes is that I have had cedar strip canoes and kayaks and have experimented alot with re-finishing them. I did use varnishes on them because cedar canoes are clear coated with fiberglass (epoxy) and require epoxy UV protection. Unvarnished epoxy will deteriorate in the UV rays of the sun. Fortunately, cedar canoes and kayaks are not out in the sun for 7 or 8 months of the year like boats are so varnishes last alot longer. 
	I clean teak with a solution of 1/4 chlorine bleach 3/4 water. I have also used a small electric pressure washer (1650 PSI) with good cleaning results. If you use a higher power pressure washer you will probably damage the teak. Let it dry and sand it with an orbital sander and give it about 3 coats of Cetol sanding between coats. Works for me!!!  | 
		
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		Cetol Marine Light will be :) 
	I like the chlorine cleaning... Last year I built my sunroom with rough cut Tulip wood. before cutting the lumber I wash the whole thing with a 25% chlorine liquid shock solution. It even removed stains from mouse s***t. Presure washed the timber and got back the natural wood color. I'm gonna try the same method with the teak. Thanks to all * http://i139.photucket.com/albu/q297/...detailwork.jpg  | 
		
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		The Cetol does have an orange stain to it. It can cover up a lot of discoloration. If you look at my guages, their backing was a piece of very white plywood. 
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		I can live with that... 
	by the way, you did an oustanting job on your boat :) Thanks  | 
		
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		Yo Bassarama, you move in with Fishbone. ?? 
	That picture of that large room looks like one of Fishbones mansions that he owns. ;) ;D  | 
		
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		HAMMER, I had the exact same thought. :-/ 
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		I take that as a compliment :) but no it's not a mansion by any means, just a confortable farm house colonial that I built... literally. 
	I designed that addition and built it with my 14 yo son. Hey I had no boat at the time so I had to do something ;D I satarted in june 05 when has like 90 degrees out ::) untill closing it up and water proof, I finished the inside over last winter... it was a nice project and it kept me out of trouble ;D Joe  | 
		
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		What do you think HAMMER? 
	I think he passes as not being fishbone. Great looking addition, nice craftmanship. ;)  | 
		
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		Just took off my cuddy door today. Sanding with 80 grit up to 220. What a pain in the A$$ !! >:( 
	I have stained wood in the past, but never messed with Teak at all. Sanding the gay out is killing me. You guys talk about cleaners for teak. If I buy a cleaner, will the teak turn back to gray again ??, I dont want that look. I want to stain it along with a coat off gloss as well. Wanna do it once and be finished with it. I hate to do it over and over each summer. If I had the cash, I do what M.J. says to do. Starboard all of it. The stained look is good, but starboard is never to maintain ever again. If I could concrete my front yard and paint it green so I wouldnt have to cut the lawn, I would !!. ;D  | 
		
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		HAMMER, I have seen your lawn, send the girls out with a  
	push mower (non motorized type), they would have it done in no time. Concrete and paint needs the same maintenance as teak.  | 
		
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		Its only like $200 for full sheet, you get plenty for all your projects! 
	I bought one sheet of 1/2 & 3/4, got all this done and the tackle box also!! Even have some still hanging around for small things! Red dots say Starboard!! http://syncboard.com/albums/Boat-Tac...34_G.sized.jpg http://syncboard.com/albums/Boat-Tac...77_G.sized.jpg http://syncboard.com/albums/Boat-Tac..._229.sized.jpg  | 
		
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		MJ, I take it your vote is for starboard? Only kidding it is a nice way to go, less up keep. Billy Mac ;D 
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		Yes it is MAC!!  
	I love the wood! I think it looks great!! And for the guys that have it and maintain it my hats are off to you!! I just no have the time to do it!! I like to fish hard, blood every where, just need to hose and go! ;)  | 
		
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		With the Cetol you don't really need to sand out all of the gray. *Just get the old finish off and you'll be ready to go. The Cetol provides its own color. 
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		MJ, I'm liking the the star board and lovin the tackle box, planning on coping the idea in a few months.. 
	Probably already asked and posted a million time, but weres the best place to pick some up?? By the way, you gotta perty eye :-*  | 
		
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		hammer , get astro turf for the front yard......lol 
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		Sean were are you located??  
	There is Starboard and Seaboard. Starboard is a Marine board made for boats and the like, and you pay a perdy penny for it! Seaboard is the same stuff! But made for resturants, bathrooms, Marine use, ect ect... Comes in more colors and different thickness, was much cheaper when I got mine. As for were to get it, depends were you live? You will have to research your area. But if you are with in the Boston, Ma area here is were I bought mine, they may ship also? and the prices here on there site have not been updated, you will hve to call to ask all your questions. They now have a textured finish that they did not have when I got mine, it would have been great for the tank covers you walk on! But they are not slippery at all smooth. http://www.jfreeman.com/cpg_seaboard.html  | 
		
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		Thanks Lumber, thats a good idea. ;D 
	Ok, went ahead and played with the power tools today. Pulled off the teak, sanded down, what a pain. Went out and picked up some teak cleaner. After sanding, I scrubbed it all down with some simple green and dish soap. After that, I spayed it up good with the teak cleaner and scrubbed the hell out of it. After it was dry, I sanded a bit more and then hit it with a tac cloth, then stained. I went with MinWax....only 5 bucks compared to West Marine Varnish for 27 bucks. >:( The wood is looking pretty good. Hoping to find some Man-o-war for the final finish coat. Cant seem to find it anywhere. If it all comes out well, I'll be pulling off the teak cuddy rails on the bow and doing them up the same way. http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...r/DSC02213.jpg  | 
		
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		Damm, if I'm not scrubbing damm dishes, I'm outside scrubbing wood. Wheres the Damm wife At >:( 
	http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...r/DSC02214.jpg  | 
		
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		Not like all you other rich V-20 owners. Dont have the work shop or 10 car Fishbone garage to work in. Working in my back storage room. 
	http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...r/DSC02216.jpg  | 
		
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		First coat of stain tonight. Will sand between coats before putting on a clear coat. Hopefully being some Man-o-war. 
	http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...r/DSC02217.jpg  | 
		
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		Its not the best picture, but you can see how bad the teak looked before. Must been quite a few years since she was ever stained at all, if ever. 
	http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...r/DSC02046.jpg  | 
		
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		Lookin' good Hammer. What time can I frop mine off tommorrow ;D 
	Airslot  | 
		
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		LOL, Thanks Air. ;) 
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		Perfect example on why I have starboard!! 
	Good work Hammer going to look like a brand new classic when finished!  | 
		
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		Thanks M.J. Only put out 20 bucks so far. The look looks good, but I agree with ya on the Starboard. Love Starboard. Maybe in the future. Still need to save some cash to replace my volt reg. on the motor. Then the pulpit made out of Starboard. ;) 
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		hammer , looks good on the restore after your all done and everything is back on the boat you wont be disappointed.... and by the way i need help sanding down the deck in the back yard are ya interested in helpin :o 
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		Thanks MJ, I'm in Newport RI, so not to far away. I am going to get in contact with them today...... 
	Hammer, looks good, I need todo the same for my cuddyt door ::)  | 
		
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		Hammer, I don't want to rain on your parade, but Minwax Poly is for furniture and not intended for marine use. The only Minwax product for marine I know of is "Helmsman". Tried Helmsman and it didn't last. You will be refinishing or going the Starboard route next year. Starboard, Seaboard, Sikkens Cetol, are expensive products, but they do the job because marine use is what they were created for. I have pulled the V20 rod boxes, stern bilge hatch, cabin door for refinishing the teak and will post pictures when complete.  
	What I do to clean the teak is a solution of bleach and water and very little scrubbing. (unless the teak is really stained badly or someone put on a coat of varnish, paint, or poly which I use stripper to remove) The bleach and water turns the uncoated teak from gray to natural new teak color without really much work. By uncoated I mean bare wood that has maybe been only treated with teak oil. I like the look of teak oil, but don't like putting it on the wood about twice a year. The bleach and water will raise the wood grain. I let the cleaned teak dry. Then I sand the raised grain with a random orbital sander which is the most labor intensive part of the refinishing job. Then I apply 3 coats of Cetol Light, lightly sanding with a fine 3m pad between coats. I may need to clean and scuff up the Cetol finish in about 3 years to apply 1 coat of finish on top of the old finish. My boat is winterized and covered, but I will try to get a picture of my teak stern bilge hatch door that I just finished last weekend and post it. Took me about 3 hours cleaning, sanding, and coating not including drying time. I know this process works because this is about my 10th boat that had finished wood from mahogany, cedar, oak, teak, etc. somewhere on it and I have tried it all and made alot of mistakes!!!  | 
		
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		Lumber, I'll be bringing my palm sanded to help ya sand. *;D 
	Geek-1, yeah, I know Minwax is for insde wood. The Minwax was 5 bucks compared to 27 bucks at West Marine and I was able to choice my red wood color stain. I plan on coating the stain with Man-o-war clear coat. This will give it a hard shell coverage and protect the stain. That is what I am hoping will happen. Damm, now I'm worried. Checked the wood and stain is still tacky, but its in a cold room with no heat. Just turned on a space heater to help dry.  | 
		
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		How many people need Starboard, maybe we can get a group discount?? ;) 
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		 :) 
	Quote: 
	
 This is something I like to do, it gives me challenge and it keeps me out of trouble ;D I could't never afford to hire someone to build the stuff I've built around the house. ( house inclusive) ;) I had a contractor giving me a quote for this room, he wanted 40k plus extras. I spent 8+k with everything, Nice difference hum? :o :o  | 
		
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		Hey Bass, look for the UPS man, sent you my teak to restain and sand. ;D ;D ;D ;D 
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		I'll do it, one condition..... only if you send this one; 
	http://www.camel-toe.net/free_camel_toe_pic_9.jpg ;D ;D ;D  | 
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