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Re-powering!
I haven’t posted for a while because last summer I lost my motor (a 1980, 305 Volvo Penta I/O), when it took in some salt-water somehow. My mechanic said there was water in the cylinders, etc, and it is a total loss, so I’m hoping to re-power sometime in the next several months. He quoted $9,000 for a new one (installed) and $7,500 for a remanufactured engine (installed). He uses top quality parts and I’m sure he would do a great job, but at those prices, I may not be able to afford to get it running again for a couple of years unless I raid my daughter’s college fund!
I love the boat and have put a lot of time into fixing up, and I really don’t want to get rid of it. I’m considering some options that I might choose if I can get the same result and save a few thousand dollars. I might buy a new, lightly used, or remanufactured motor somewhere else and try to find a less expensive way to have it installed, or just install it myself with some help. I would appreciate any suggestions on where to find good motors or installers, or warnings about the pitfalls I might be facing! Please don’t turn this into a debate about converting the boat to an outboard with a bracket. It would be great, but I’ve already ruled it out and there have been plenty of posts about it anyway. I’m looking for advice about I/O’s. Thanks! |
Re: Re-powering!
Have you looked in the bone yards for a good used motor?
If you can get a good running motor, and change all gaskets to marine, and replace all freeze plugs to marine, along with the oil pan from your old motor if aluminum. You should be fine. It will get you buy for a few years I am sure. And if you do all the work I bet you can do it for $1,000 or so. And if you haven't or don't know when the engine coupler was changed last do it now!! I pulled my motor replaced it and the 2nd trip out the coupler went and I had to remove the motor again :( Good Luck! |
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Do those prices include a new outdrive too?
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Nope. Just the motor!
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I'm not too familiar w/ I/O's but that sounds like it's too high. Get a couple other quotes elsewhere to compare.
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Cliff, where you located? I just did a quick search;
Brand new 4.3 V6 Vortech, 230hp :) $2700 http://www.marineengine.com/cgi-bin/...ssion=$session |
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Insteresting discussion on the Hull Truth. Thanks for passing on the link. Now I have a better idea of what I'm getting myself into!
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CP -
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/boa/253623543.html 1977 Manta Ray - $1850 Reply to: [email protected] Date: 2006-12-26, 11:02AM PST I have a 1977 Manta ray 18' with a Volvo 200c V8 {great gas mileage for a V8}. It has a 280 Volvo Penta out drive. Comes with Tandem axel trailer, with good tires, PTI tags. The motor has been recently tuned up so if you like to fish, ski or just cruise it's ready to go. The carb was recently rebuilt. New deep cycle battery. Comes with a Humming Bird fish finder. I have all the life jackets that you will need, it also has a swim ladder. Some interior will need to be replaced.Like new bimini top. Lets make a deal. If you have questions, you can emaill me or if you would like more pics. Thanks for looking. |
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The trihulls are goldmines.
No one wants them - b/c they're ugly. Floors and transoms are usually built like crap (rotting out). Lots of them have well cared for Freshwater Volvo parts. Yolo county landfill only charges $60 - 100 bucks to drop them off. I don't know the differences b/w the Volvo 200c and your motor, but you'll get an extra 280 drive and get a chance to test it out. I've been selling off some extra volvo parts on ebay and there's a pretty good market for the parts. Especially the upper drive units, props, and the trim systems. That boat has a dual axle trailer (which you can unload for $500 - $800). I'll bet you'd make money on the deal if you talk him down to $1200 - $1400. Sell the trailer, electronics, outdrive, Teak swim platform, etc. It takes time, but if you're look at a few years w/o a boat . . . this might be a lost cost option. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/...167_Medium.jpg |
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$1400 will buy you a brand new 350 Chevy from www.summitracing.com Throw some marine head gaskets, brass freeze plugs, and a marine oil pan on it along with the rest of your accessories and you've got yourself a marine 350 for about $1500.
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Quote:
By the way that won't work that easy must change cam too. marine cams have different overlap so they don't suck water in the motor at idle. |
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Ok, so a marine cam costs another $100. But, if you find the grind specs, I really doubt they use different cams.
It wouldn't hur to throw some epoxy paint on there to seal everything up too. |
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that's how i knew they were different the valve over lap is different on them and require different cams on under water exhaust I/O's but above water you can run either one, and marine cams average $350 starts.
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CP - I might have found you one for the cost of disposing a boat. It's in a boat with a blown OMC Drive.
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cliff
I have the same engine you have but my block has a casting flaw crack. So I need a new engine. I'm upgrading to a 350 but I have mine listed on this forum in the for sale catagory. You could use your block and change out my engine internals, they are all standard. I had also had just bought new rebuilt heads for mine. I'll let you have everything for $625. I have to keep all covers and oil pan, pulleys etc for my new long block but everything else on my motor is still in good shape and standard. My mtr is a 1991. Let me know if youre interested, if not and you still want a new engine let me know and I'll turn you on to where I'm getting mine. This place sell marine engines and has a 12 month warranty unlimited hours. lee |
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Marine cams cost $350 through marine parts distributors. * Here is one for $115 from Comp Cams who are one of the best cam grinders out there:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku As an added benefit, you'll make roughly 275-290hp over 260 if you use a stock intake and heads. *Summit has house brand marine cams for as little as $52, their advertised durations are a little long, though. I really don't believe a special cam grind is used in the marine small blocks. The lift numbers between automotive and marine are the same, but I haven't found the duration and LSA for the marine cam, yet. I'll be you they are the same as well, making the cams identical. |
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BS - Thanks for the lead on Craig's list. I emailed the guy and he sent me some zoomable pictures that show a lot of corrosion. I'm interested to know about the second one you found! Let me know when you have some more details!
Lee - Thanks for the offer, but it sounds like more mechanical work than I can handle. I'd appreciate the additional information though. |
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CLIFF:
I'M TRYING TO CONTACT MERCRUISER TO SEE WHAT TIPE OF PRICE I CAN GET YOU IN A LONG BLOCK OR A COMPLETE PACKAGE, A WORD OF ADVISE (MIND THE GODS OPINIONS): WHATEVER YOU DO, IF YOU ARE NOT A MECHANIC, GET A COMPLETE ENGINE THAT YOU DON'T HAVE TO MESS AROUND WITH. I FOUND LONG BLOCKS 260 H.P. (305) FOR $2,750.00 OR 330 H.P. (305) FOR $3,000.00 P.S I RECEIVED A PRICE FROM MERC IN A COMPLETE PACKAGE FOR $8,965.00 (NOT GOOD FOR YOU) REGARDS,LESTERUS |
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I took the first step and pulled the old motor. Here's proof!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...2/dsc_4772.jpg What a rust bucket! I feel better knowing that it was bound to fail one way or another. I had no idea how bad it was until I had it on the stand and started playing around with it. Rust was creeping everywhere it found an opening! |
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Cliff
What did you end up doing about your motor? I'm still fixing / fine tuning everything back there before I get the new engine, but I was curious what you did for a motor? |
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one other option for you is to check into the GM 300 hp 5.7 they sell over the counter from GM Performance Parts, the specs on that motor is real simular to the specs on the 5.7( including cam) MPI that merc sells. They sell the longblock for around $2900. Another place to check is ebasicpower.com they have some good deals on complete engines and long blocks, there web site is confusing, get their phone # off of the site and call, soometimes they have specials that don't show up on the site. If you do decide to install a long block, go ahead and replace the manifolds and risers( basic power sells these) while your at it, its not worth the risk to damaging a new engine.
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Great pic/ Jeff/ ;)
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