to pump or not
 

oil that is A lot of used outboards I look at the oil pump is disabled and they mix won't a new pump take care of the problem ? are the OMC VRO motors any good

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Many people don't have any faith in the oil injection system. Many times the alarm will sound, but normally you can't shut em down in time and the damage is already done. The JOHNNY-RUDE VRO(trademark for OMC's oil injection) system really gave a black eyye to oil injection system's. The first ones didn't have an alrm, and the pump's were a completely new design and gave some trouble. Plus many boater's had never had a 2-stroke, let alone one with oil injection. Needless to say many didn't fill the reservoir, but the VRO got blamed. Or they would buy the cheapest oil they could get that wasn't even meant for oil injection(there are different viscosity's to 2-stroke oil), and the VRO got blamed as well for operator error. But the simplest solution is to just pre-mix the fuel and then you know the oil is there.

I personally wouldn't run a JOHNNY-RUDE(excluding the DFI's) with oil injection. And I bypassed it on my MERCURY because of the failure prone plastic(yes I said plastic) crank gear that drives a metal oil pump driveshaft. But I ran them on all of my SUZUKI's(with SUZUKI oil, there oil is THICK! compared to regular TCW 3), and never thought of bypassing a YAMAHA's either. Oil injection system's can be very reliable, but they do require operator maintence every once in a while.

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What are you planing on put on you V

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If I can ever get time to redo my V, I'm probably going to go with a 200 or 225 JOHNSON/EVINRUDE from 86-87 prefferably, or one from 88-92. The 93+ are really good engines, but the they are also a bit more thirsty for fuel from what I've heard and seen. The 86-87 engines had more aggressive porting and made there HP with 2.7L's, whereas the 88+ went up to 3.0L's of displacement. If my V wasn't already rigged for an OMC style engine, I would probably go with a 2.0L MERCURY at 150 HP. And my 3rd choice would be a 2.7L 225 SUZUKI. I really like the 3rd option, but they're still fairly pricey used, and parts are getting hard to come by. Mercury parts are readily available, but JOHNSON/EVINRUDE parts are pretty much everywhere with a wide range of parts interchangeability.

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I was told 200hp was max also a 20 in shaft but i was also told i can get a bracket to use a 25 wont motor sit up to high

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I agree with all above!!

My boat was a I/O when i got it and after 4 years of hell I removed the I/O and converted with a bracket and 175 Yamaha with a 26" shaft.

NO they don't sit to high, and its the best thing I ever did!!

But you are a OB all ready and for you to add a bracket and motor you will have to repair the transome and raise ot up, to make room for the bracket.

If your transom is good go with a Jack plate and add a 25" shaft.

Wellcraft went back and forth for a few years when thry had 20 and 25 transoms, I think th 20 are cut to low in the water

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I agree with MJ. Depending on the factory size transom u have, you may or may not have to add a jack plate. If you have a 25" shaft motor "Preferred" with a 20" transom, yu gotta add the Jack plate. Seen alot of jack plates on E-Bay for about 100 bucks.
Post more pics. of your V !! 8)

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http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/f...rch/bc5e_0.jpg
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/f...earch/v20c.jpg
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/f...rch/b5f1_0.jpg
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/f...h/b727_0-1.jpg
I am told it a 20 in I have not sean the boat yet a friend check it out and sernt some of the phots some are from the ebay listing

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LOOKS LIKE 25" TO ME :-/

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Nah man, thats a 25" Transom. You did good. So what ya pay for it ??? ???

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$830.00 but the motor is toast and tne trailer needs work trying to decied new or used on motor

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reason oil injection is disconnected on these motors is due to prone motor death but the most common reason they die is not the VRO usually it's a bad Voltage Regulator cause that runs the tach which is the same way your VRO pump gets it's control, if your tach dies then your VRO has died and if the charging system dies then so does VRO, I say do not run them, and i have several VRO 140's and 225's. My V20 is going to have at least one 225 Johnson.

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Only sticking on one 225 on the V SKOOL ???
You Wussy. ;D ;D ;D

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That is definately a 25" shaft engine in the pictures. Are you sure the engine is toast? He only states no spark in his description. Many an engine has been deemed junk due to a bad ignition switch. I've bought more than one boat super cheap that way because of a bad ignition switch.

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The engan cover has smoke damagen

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an interesting read on the vro pump over in the for sale section.....I think the thread is "wanted, vro pump and oil tank".

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what can you fokes tell me about tne 1995 johson 200 HP motors is that a good fit for my V and is that the VRO pump?

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Hay Skool how about this on the back of a V

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/f...nrudespair.jpg

Just one action on ebay for them

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yeah i looked at them for my 250, they are on a Parker Boat. I have several 225's already.

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I seen em as well. You oughta hang both of em off the back of your V. Then you can be like wiley coyote on the acme rocket chasing the road runner ;D. Might be a tad bit stern heavy though :o.

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I have a 1993 150 Johnson which pushes my boat around 40 to 45 mph. Mine has a place for the VRO pump but was never added and has been mixed from day one. I purchased the boat from a buddy who purchased the motor new and was going to add the VRO system but decide just to mix. What ever you buy do a compression check before closing the deal. I'm not sure about the 1995 but mine has low compression from the factory so you need to know that. I was told when checking mine last year that 98psi was bad but after talking to someone who knows said it was very good for a 9 year old motor.

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Anywhere from 85-110 is normal cranking compression for an OMC looper V-6. The idle relief ports really lower the cranking compression down. The V-4's can have some serious bump to em though, mine has 155 pounds on it.