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Removing Sea Drive
Hey guys,
I'm seriously thinking about starting the removal of my sea drive next Monday, Lord willing. I have a question about the steering components. Once the sea drive is removed, will I still be able to attach the existing hoses to a new hydraulic pump? Or will I need a whole new steering system? Also, are there any tips or cautions I should know before removing the sea drive? |
Re: Removing Sea Drive
BG on my conversion there is a separate steering and controls run thru a thru transom hole that was made with a new rubber boot set up, I never saw what controls were on the original sea drive, sorry no help
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Re: Removing Sea Drive
you should only need a baystar or same style steering cylinder at the outboard.
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Other than the engine components, you should be able to use the helm unit and hoses, etc.
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Will the hoses be long enough??
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That's what I'm wondering ??? Gonna have to get in there and do some measuring (if poss).
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I was wondering the same things about the length of hoses. Is the worst case scenario simply that I might have to buy longer hoses? Would it be crazy to splice another piece on to the existing hose if I had to? That's probably asking for trouble down the line, wouldn't you think?
Thanks for the input guys. |
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you shouldn't have any problem as long as you use the correct hose fittings and hose for the app.
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BG do new hoses if originals are not long enough and don't look back, one less thing you will have to worry about ;)
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NO SPLICE=NO REGRETS...there will be issues enough w/ out creating more ;) ...
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Indeed, you men are right. No splicing it is.
I think I should be able to remove the whole thing in a matter of an hour or two. Does that sound reasonable? There are only a couple of hoses to disconnect and basically four bolts holding the drive on the transom... I'll be sure to take some before, during, and after shots on Monday and post them. Thanks again for your help guys. |
Re: Removing Sea Drive
You should be able to get it off pretty quick, But they are a heavy heavy unit!!
Make sure you have it hooked up good before you break it free!! Once removed, check the transom for soft spots? But the one good thing with Sea drives is that they sealed them real nice when they installed them! As for things being long enough?? What are you putting on there? My bracket was 27" set back and everything was like 3 feet short. I had to get a longer steering cable, and had to lengthen the wiring harness for the motor. Sea drives make a easy convert, as a lot of people just put the bracket right over the hole in the transome and seal well!! I don't like that Idea, cause if the bracket ever gets a leak its coming right into the boat. |
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the Sea Drive hole will be above the bracket on your boat. Remember your 248 had 2 patch spots on the inside above the floor. those were the pump holes from the twin sea drives that girl had. You's will have the same hole up high in the center. those can be used for cables and put a cable seal on the transom around your wires and steering hoses. Here's the pic you had and you can see the 2 patches for the sea drive holes.
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/..._013.sized.jpg |
Re: Removing Sea Drive
some of the old sea drives had a big hole in the middle also, I thought??
Thas even easier on that one! |
Re: Removing Sea Drive
MJ,
Yep, there's a hole in the middle for my Sea Drive. *The picture Skools posted is a picture of the 248 that I sold him that had been converted from I/O to twin bracket. * * I'm glad to learn that the hole will be above the bracket. *I'll do as Skools has suggested and run my cables through it. *That will keep things looking nice back there. *How well do those cable seals work? *Do you think it will keep the water from getting into the bilge area? * MJ, how did you lengthen the wiring harness? *I plan on getting a bracket with a 30" setback. *If I'm able to get another Johnson/Evinrude I think my wiring should reach since it's already made the distance to the sea drive... *However, the steering hoses are another story and I think I'll probably have to replace them with longer ones... |
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yeah the wiring should work they are usually 15' or 18' some 20's and 24's.. That 248 was a Sea Drive originally so that's what you should see the exact same size hole as this one had patched.
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Wow, I learn something new everyday. I didn't even know that the 248 had a sea drive before. I thought it had been an I/O... I guess it just goes to show another shade of this greenhorn ;)
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Steering CABLES??...coulda sworn we were talkin' about a hydraulic steerin' system :) ...
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RAP,
Indeed, I meant steering hoses. You're right, we are talking about hydraulic steering. In my mind, I was also thinking about the throttle and shifter cables... My bad, good catch ;) |
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If you install 150 hp or less use baystar, above 150 hp use sea star. Bought a Baystar system on ebay for $465.00. It's an easy install.
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Quote:
I'm confused ??? I ordered a lifting eye for my engine last night ($50 :-/) Once I get it, my brother and I will be going to town on getting some work done on my baby. I'll try to remember to take pictures along the way. |
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Steve, as Skools mentioned earlier, you'll need SEA-Star for a 200 hp...did you get the steering system new?...if so, it should be complete w/ all you need including a new helm...the helm is the ''pump'' and no other should be needed ;) ...good luck w/ the whole project ;D ...
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Thanks for the post RAP.
There was a Sea Star cylinder and hardware for sale on Ebay that I thought I might have been able to get inexpensively, but it got out of my reach. I was going to try and keep the helm from the sea drive and use the Sea Star cylinder with it... So, another question to reveal more of my ignorance: how is the pressure built up for the hydraulic system? Does the helm have an electric pump inside of it? Still a bit confused :-[ I'll probably just go with a no feedback steering kit and call it a day... |
Re: Removing Sea Drive
It works by "direct displacement" in a sealed system. When you turn the helm it pumps the hyd. oil one way and draws it from the other direction. If you had power stearing the helm would be controling the fluid pumped by a power stearing pump.
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Best'o'luck with the conversion. Please keep us posted. I'm getting close to repowering my '20 from the 165 I/O.
What kind'o bracket you using? TIA |
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We all expect to see lots of PICS !!. ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Hey Hammerhead, I'm installing a Gil bracket that I'm buying from Kamikaze.
My Dad was kind enough to take the time to come out and help me with this project. *He's the one in the pic. * Okay boys, here's where we are at after a day and a half of playing around with that stinking Sea Drive. *Now, I know why guys get rid of them. *I couldn't imagine trying to work on one of those things! http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...l/100_1189.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...l/100_1197.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...l/100_1200.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...l/100_1198.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...l/100_1199.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...l/100_1195.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...l/100_1196.jpg Hey guys, what would you recommend to use for filling in the hole left from the Sea Drive? *What about the the smaller holes where the mounting bolts were? *We plan on keeping the hole at the top to run the cables and lines through. *Let us know what you think when you get a second. *Thanks guys... |
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B.G. Great pics. Glad to see that you are working on her.
The transom looks pretty solid and thick. As far as patching, I can you plan on wetting and bounding several pieces together to get the same thickness, once you have that, slde her in the hole and cloth over it with West System, both inside and out of the transom. Dont stop now, get out the grinder and keep working. ;D ;D ;) ;) |
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Go get a 2'' Shop-Vac hose to run all your wires thru comin' outta the transom ;)...works like a charm and looks great ...perfect for your application... 8) ...
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for the screw holes use a wooded dowle soaked in resin, hamer in and cut iff when dry.
I would fill both holes as when you have the bracket on it will one, seal the bracket for floation, Two is you ever get a leak from the bracket it will fill the boat in no time! To fix the holes I would glass from the inside of the boat to cover the hole, then you can cut ply, coat with resin and cloth and fill from the outside. Then run the wires and stuff thur a new transom hole and vac hose, like this: http://syncboard.com/albums/Boat-Tac..._023.sized.jpg |
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Thanks for the tips MJ. Will do. Cutting a new hole makes a lot more sense; a lot less turns for the cables and wires; straight run to the back. I like it. Also, great idea about using the dowels. Hey, no matter what CB says, you da' man MJ. ;)
We tried using that Tal-Strip paint remover on the transom to remove the bottom paint to get things ready to be painted when the glass work is completed, but the Tal-Strip didn't work too well for us. Don't know why... We did just as Skools recommended, but it looks like the bottom paint has pretty much stained the hull. We will try to clean things up a little better with acetone, but it looks like we'll be painting the transom. Here are some pics from today... http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...l/100_1201.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...l/100_1202.jpg |
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good job. looks like ur moving right along. dont ya hate all those unexpected little hangups! keep at it and good luck.
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Well, here's some of the progress we've made this week. Sorry about the pictures at the end that were taken in the dark and rain, but I figured it was better than nothing for now. I'll take a few more in the daytime once Ernesto gets out of the way.
We installed 3 layers of plywood totalling one and a half inches thick, then glassed over. http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...l/100_1221.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...l/100_1222.jpg This is a shot inside the transom area behind the back seat... http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...l/100_1225.jpg Then, we sanded the glass, filled in with surface putty, sanded and painted with poly. Not too shabby, huh? http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...l/100_1223.jpg Then, we installed the Gil bracket that Kamikaze so graciously sold to me. By the way, thanks again Kamikaze for the pointers and the aluminum... http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...l/100_1227.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...l/100_1228.jpg |
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Looking sweet Grace, hope the rest goes smooth for you ;)
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How much did the bracket cost? I have a V-20 center console that pretty open in the back and I would like to close it all the way in and then mount the bracket. I am alway afraid of getting a wave over the back and swamping the boat.
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Axes,
I paid $150 for it, but that's only because Kamikaze gave me a good deal. Other brackets will cost you anywhere from $350 for a used one to $1200 or more for a newer one with swim platform. D&D Marine brackets (http://www.dadmarine.com/) seem to be the least expensive from what I was able to tell when I was shopping around. Steve |
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I got my bracket a Stainless Marine, with full swim platform.
It was a take off!! Go to some mariners around your area, and ask if they have one laying around! Cost new was $1500 I paided $400 Keep checking your local paper they are allover the place!! Good Luck!! Good work Bygracealone!! |
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I might go look around Port O'Conner and see if I can find something. Thanks
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Lookin' good, Bygrace...keep it up !! ;) ;D ;D ...
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Looking good BGA.Keep up the good work! Billy Mac ;D
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