Gallery Success!...
 

Finally figured it out....9 pics in the gallery....never thought my gallery pics would be w/a dusting of snow ::), but updates to come...

Hope you guys enjoy :)....

Hey MJ, that point and shot thing works pretty good... :D

Bigshrimpin'....thanx for gettin' me thru this veil of IGNORANCE :P....maybe those stone tablets ain't so tuff after all.... ;D

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Looking good baby!! I kind of like them seat boxes!!

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Thanx MJ...when the snow goes I'll take the cockpit cover off and add some dash shots...thanks for gettin' me off my arse...

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you call that a cover?? Now this is a cover!! O yea I think there is a utility trailer under that snow to?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/95f76df1.jpg

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Rap - BOUT TIME !!! :)
(This unsolicited comment brought to you by the posterboy for the digitally challenged). ;D

MJ - please post more info on your cover, especially framework composition and design. I have been draping a tarp over the bimini in a closed upright position. I am constantly clearing snow off the tarp so I don't stress the bimini frame, and it is getting to be a PITA.

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RAP-

Looks great!!
Now where can I get those seats w/ boxes!!

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well its nothing special!!!
All I did is take 3, 8x2x4 and bolt them toghter. This way in the summer they fold like a wood ruler for easy storage!

Second I took some scrap 4x4's and cut notches in one end and cut to height.
One from the rear deck to just higer then the motor. Ant the other from the front bow to a bit lower then the windshield.
I screw the 2x4 to the notch in each 4x4.

Now you can also do the same in the middle of the boat, but I have a Hoop from a old Awning from a store front that I put into the boat and tie so it stands stright and that is what suports the 2x4 in the middle of the boat.
Tie everything in place so nothing moves!! Front is tied from 2x4 to bow rails, middle hoop is tied to rod holders and 2x4 to hoop, and rear is from 2x4 to rear cleats.

After that I bought a 25 X 12 green tarp the heavier one then the blue and drape it over and tie down so thw wind does not slap!! This is key!! as the wind will make short work of a tarp!!
Thats it your done!!

But I still have to remove the snow from time to time!! I have a long extision handle with a brush I use to clean the Camper with which with a couple of quick pulls the snow just slides right off!
I have a friend that says he sprays his tarp with silcone spray and the snow falls right off!?? I will try next year!

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Thanks Fillet...looked all over, but nuttin' available, so I made 'em to just fit over the fuel tanks...the backs of the boxes are about two inches higher than the front where the seats are...this is to accomodate the filler neck to the tank....tanks came in w/straight up(verticle) fillers; had to have those cut down and 90 degree fillers welded on so back of boxes wouldn't be 9" tall :o

This set-up has worked great for 5 yrs...originally needed large fuel capacity w/old gas-suckin' 'Rude...W/Honda, I don't fillem up more than 3/4 and make 2-3 trips off of that ;D...

Those are alum tanks and sit on 1/4" rubber mat cut to fit foot-print of tank...rubber's there to keep ever-present vibration from wearin' hole thru alum...

Each tank has line to water seperator w/in-line shut-off, single line w/bulb to motor...

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Maco...I used a single 2x4 from wind-shield to top of motor(protect w/carpet piece)...drape tarp and tie off bottom(you're right about that wind)....I just use that ****-pit cover for the light stuff :D...

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Looks great, i can't wait to get the shrinkwrap off my boat so I can get some real pics posted. What are your boxes made out of (love the matching scissors and pliers port and starboard) and tell me more about the trolling motor (?). Do you control it from the cockpit remotely like on those sparkly bass boats? I've often thought about putting one on my boat and they (obviously) make them big enough for a V-20.

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Yeah CT...that elec motor is a Minn Kota 70lb thrust,saltwater rated...and yes it is controlled from amidsip cause thats where we're usually baitin' up etc...anyway it's great for the type fishin' we do down here...you should get one...it's perfect for fishin' live bait...MK just came out w/a 80lb thrust that's got a little more power...might come in handy fighting saltwater currents...something I haven't done w/mine yet, but it's great on lakes...

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Oh yeah...boxes are made of treated 2xs,ply and upholstered w/vinyl.... ;)

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Oh yeah...boxes are made of treated 2xs,ply and upholstered w/vinyl.... ;)

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MJ - thanks for your response. I am having a hard time picturing the design of your support structure. Do you have the 2x4 resting on the windshield?? Extreme James did that last winter and busted the windshield on his steigercraft. Maybe you could post a pic when you take the tarp off, this spring.
I like the slick spray idea. :) I have a steep tarp the way it is, but a heavy wet snow still accumulates. >:(

I think the worst of this winter is behind us - it hit freezing this weekend. :D

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Thanks. I saw MK's "riptide" in Cabelas. The biggest puts out 101 lbs of thrust and is designed for saltwater but is hand control only. It costs $840 :-[. It would be great for fishing around structure. The 80 lb thrust riptide w/remote control is $940. I wonder why MK won't put the bigger motor out there w/remote control. Do you use the 54" or the 60" shaft? Man I wish I had a $$$ tree out back so I could get everything I wanted.

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CT...that 80 will probably do it for you...keep in mind cost of the motor is cake...icing is 2 BIG deep cycle batts and good idea is onboard charger for those batts...I've got a pair of 31s powering nuttin' but the trolling motor and a 2 x 10 amp charger to keep 'em hot...there's just no end to it ::)...

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Nice looking boat, Reel!

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Thanks Pipe...got some fiberglass repair in near future and then I'll clean her up and post new pics ;)...but,Brother , you did what most of the rest of us DREAM about...your gallery pics are fantastic...I'd luv to haul mine out and restore to that extent...Your new tank, finish and that big ol 200 Yammer...IMHO 100 times better than goin' out and buyin' new...and no Euro-style transom 8)....GREAT JOB...have you got a buddy who does that work or did you do it...or did you do what I'd have to do and just turn it over to a shop to be done?...oh those deep knee bends kill me :o...

Are those SC pics at Toller's...that's where my friend's slip is...look for "Fhat Cat"...

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I wish I could take credit for doing the actual work, but what I did was write checks and hit the home equity line hard! Between long hours at work and too many other hobbies/interests/commitments, the only way to get the work done was to contract it out. I just don't like the newer boats out there . . . so many here buy new Grady's which are okay . . . but the price tag for a 20+' Grady is so steep! This was way cheaper than that, and I have the hull I like, plenty of power, and a boat that turns the heads of people that know boats. This may be the last boat I ever own, and if so, that's AOK.
The last photo was taken just feet from my slip on Hilton Head Island -- just me and the dogs going for a cruise! 8)

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8) no doubt...

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RAP - I love those box seats on your boat.

Just curious . . . what are the measurements. L x W x H.

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BS hang on...Let me run get a tape...

OK(pant, pant, pant) I'm back (pant, pant, pant)...any excuse to run out to the boat ;D...each box is 42 1/4" L x 22 1/2" W, front of box under seat is 17" H, back of box is 19 1/2" H(fuel hose attaches there)...Tanks came from West...they are 36 1/2" L x 18" W x 14" H...w/your fiberglass skills, you could make boxes better lookin', lighter weight and a little smaller, which would be better, better and better :D

W/2 30gal tanks done this way, you could get 60gals and save weight...gettin' rid of those saddles opens the inside width of back of the boat...toes go under gunwhales and looks wider...

Careful w/this conversion as it does shift weight toward bow of boat...reason to use 2-30s and glass that box...

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Whats nice about that, is that anyone worried about adding weight to the back of the boat with a bracket, and outboard conversion, could counter the weight with that tank set up!!
Still using 2- 20 gal side tanks, and one 25 gal tank were the old I/O motor was.

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Hadn't thought of that, MJ ;)...how much does a typical bracket weigh?...w/a full transom I guess you can get away w/a little more...

BS...how much did that bracket you worked on weigh?...

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well my bracket was not to bad, It was about 125# ?? I forgot but I was able to move it around myself with some effort.

But I can tell you this, the I/O set up was right around 500# and the new outboard is 390# and then the 125 # for the bracket you are in the same ball park!

So what you are really doing is just shifting the weight from the inside of the boat to the outside, there buy changing the center of gravity.

This is done at the factory with OB models by adding the 60 gal gas tanks to the center of the boat, rather then the saddle bags on the side for the I/O.

So adding the Tanks forward like his seat tanks will give you back some of that weight you shifted back with the bracket.

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Just got a email from Stainless Marine, and the bracket on my boat ( See Below) is 140 pounds, 1/2" Aluminum, and is $1385.00
Made to fit right on to the wellcraft so there is no shimming like I had to do. Mine was a take off from a 23' Seacraft and does not have the curve, that wellcraft has.

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If I had a full transom, I'd be askin' for contact info ;D...