WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

I see you found us.....let's see some pics of your "V" when you get a chance. ;)

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

What !!, still no pics. >:( >:( >:( :o :o

;D ;)

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

Not even a post???

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

Sorry about the late posting, been doing alot of reading since I joined. I recently purchased an 84 V-20 cuddy for a decent price(probably seen it on E-bay), and I am doing alot of research to try and figure a direction to go with it. It has a 1.6L sea-drive on it now, and I am trying to figure out what engine options and upgrades I should do to it to make it how I want it. Here is the link to the E-bay ad since i don't have a digital camera to get any pics up.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=270062299590

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

Welcome abooard! Are ya another flprida boy?

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

$500 is a steal! :o You done good.

Welcome. 8)

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

Yep you got a deal there!!

as for power, I would and have added a bracket to mine and have a 175 hp on it, Best improvement I have ever made!!
And a Sea Drive is a really easy conversion!!

A bunch of elbow grease she be all cleaned up!!

And unless you like the look and have a bunch of time on your hands, get a sheet of starboard and start replacing all them wood hatches and stuff.

Hey guys look, he has the highly wanted seat box!!

Better not let anyone know were your house is, as that seat box will disappear faster then you can say Holy $hit!! ;D

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

why you son of a . . . .

thats the one i wanted.

welcome.

enjoy.

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

Well Nator, ya done good (great as a matter of fact)...w/ that sea-drive, you've already got a reinforced transom...I'd slap a full-width bracket and a 225 E-Tec on that puppy if $$ allowed ;) ...

Figure out how to post pix...if I can, U can 2...and keep us updated on how ya go w/ it...you're sure off to a great start 8) ...

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

It's sitting on the back burner right now until I can get caught up on some other projects, but I figured for $500 it was worth getting it to hang on to. The engine didn't have any fire, tracked that down to a bad ignition switch(couldn't resist checking it out). And the steering is very tight, lack of maintence by previous owners(didn't grease the steering tube).

As for it having the heavy duty transom, I'm a bit scetchy on that one. It only has a wood transom for the flat portion and a piece where the swim platform is. Alot of the transom has no wood in it. I'm not sure if this is how they built them origanally or not, but this one is that way and appears to have never been messed with. I would love nothing more than to hang a bracket on it with a 175 E-tec, but I want to check it over some more before I go doing major changes.

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

take a q/4 drill bit and drill from the inside and see what comes out?

Dirt needs to be redone, wood and she is good to go!

Whats nice with the sea drive transom it has been made to take the weight of a bracket and motor!

My conversion is from a I/O and they were not made to take the weight so had to do some bracing.

As long as you have wood in there you are already half way there!!

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

Welcome aboard, just so you understand what you have there a few points. Your transom is all wood with fiberglass on the inside and outside. Also the stringers and floor supports are wood enclosed in fiberglass.. My boat is an 1985, it was originally like yours with a sea drive.
The comments made to you about repowering refer to the fact that your boat is one of the most, if not the most desireable for repowering with a armstrong, gill or stainless marine motor bracket. For two reasons, one your sea drive was sealed well from the factory and as long as some idiot did not drill holes all over it and not seal it correctly you will fnd the wood inside the transom will still be strong and dry. Two the hole that was made for the sea drive is a small one, approximatly 6x7". This is good because it did not allow water into the wood and it sits pretty high and because it is simple for you to close that hole and seal it when a bracket is installed.
There are several guys who have done just that on this site and recently too. Makes for a sweet V, not that the other power versions are not, everyone likes something different, thats why they made blondes brunettes and red heads. ;D I personally like my set up but would have been very happy with an I/O or standard outboard set up.
Good luck with it you have a lot of potential there for a sweet boat

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

This one has 2 holes for it for the sea-drive(like most here have posted pics of. I removed the cover that the transducer passes through the hull in and there is NO wood in that area of the transom, not even dirt in there. You can push in on the transom of the boat from the outside on the starboard side from about 3" up. I have been told that some boat manufacturers didn't put wood all the way across, they only put it in the middle where it bonds to the stringers. I know the transom is solid, but the lack of wood in the transom concerns me. I've stood on the sea-drive and bounced on it and the transom didn't flex, but just don't see it being solid enough for a bracket and a big V-6 back there with the lack of support on the starboard side.

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

Where ??? ...

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

What you think you have there now?? Its a bracket and at least a V4

Same as you want to replace!!



If you don't have wood in there, It will be the first Wellcraft that I have ever heard of that didn't!!

Need to get some pictures up for us to see. We all can figure it out toghter!

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

He says wood only at motor and swim-bracket...can "push in" fiberglass on starboard side ... that being said, if you went w/ a narrow bracket, you'd probably be OK, cause like MJ says, that's virtually what ya got now ... ;) ...

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

I went and took another look at it, and there is no wood from the stringer going outward in the transom with the exception of a small strip along the very bottom wher a trim tab would attatch. The transom seems very solid and there are no cracks where the stringer is glassed to the transom that I can see(will clean it and inspect it better when I get some time). And there is wood where the swim platform is thru-bolted. I will try and borrow my girlfriends digital camera and get some pics up in the next week or so.

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

Interesting???

Willy, whats yours like? Do you have wood only in the center?

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

I looked at the tag on mine and it says it was an I/O model. But the floor and transom appear to have never been patched over to cover an I/O. Maybe somebody got one that was meant for an I/O that ended up with a sea-drive on it. I have to many boats as is right now so I'm going to see which ones work out for me long term. After looking at this one I would feel alot more comfortable redoing the transom in it before hanging a bracket on it. But the curved transom is of an area of concern for me to do. I'm getting ready to replace the transom in an 88 20' HYDRA-SPORT CC that I have(flat thick transom), and i may redo this one in sea-cast as to ease the replacement. I'm really waiting to get this one running and see how it handles in rough water. I got the HYDRA-SPORT because I've ridden in an 86 that really impressed me, very dry ride in 3-4' seas running 30 MPH. I'm hoping this WELLCRAFT handles similar if not better since it has more deadrise to it than the HYDRA-SPORT.

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

I don't know of ANY 20' boat that I'd WANT to to do 30mph in TRUE 3-4'ers :-/

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

I was out one day in it in 6 footers running a verified 31 MPH. 32+ would put you on the floor, and less than 29 would do the same. But at 31-31.7 it would glide over them(only heard the prop a little). I've been told I'm a bit nut's, but what the hey. I'm one of those idiots that's been 7 miles out in a 14' aluminum Jon boat in the midlle of the night to go troll behind the shrimp boats ;D. Or go 30 miles out in a 19 footer when 50 footers stay in port. I'm that guy 8).

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

As much as I love my V20, if you have a HYDRA-SPORT that will do 30+ in a 4 footers then you better stay with it.

Cause that isn't going to happen in a V20!!

V20 will get you home no problem!! But not fast like that!!

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

30 MPH in a true 4' sea ain't even doable in my friend's 28' cat ... well I guess doable, but it would BEAT the CRAP outta ya and where's the sense in that?? ... take MJ's advise above ::) ...

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

I had a 21 hydra-sport (kevlar) w a 235 evinrude and it would fly!!! I don't know about 3 to 4 ft, but it took rough water very well. It was also the driest CC I have ever been on. It would throw the spray 40 ft away and flat. With the 235, I was going so fast the spray never hit you. The reason I replaced it with the V-20 was the cuddy, needed room for baby stuff. The only real problems I had was the "V" was too much. I was doing a lot of diving then and when you sat on the gunnell with a set of gear on, you would almost dip the side under water. Mine also had no splashwell and a low transom. I also felt the sides in the rear were a little to low for bottom fishing. It is a great riding hull.

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

My 20' HYDRA-SPORT has the high sides and I have a 250HP YAMAHA to go on it when I redo the transom. My buddy who convinced me to get the HYDRA-S{PORT has an 86DC 20' with a 225HP JOHNSON and that is the one I took on the rough water in. But I now have a significant other that wants to go boatin with me, so I think the V-20 will prevail. And I don't beat myself up on the water like I used to either(broke to many boats in my life for only being 26), plus I'm disabled from a car crash and my body aint what it used to be. And when I say 4 foot seas I mean from the bottom of the trough to the top of the crest. Now if it was 4' with a short wave duration, no way would I be running that fast.

For those of you that have I/O's in your V-20's, do your transoms have wood all the way across or just in the center? The model on mine according to the coast guard placard is a V-20 I/O, yet it came with a sea-drive. Giving serious thought to making my 140HP EVINRUDE into a 25" shaft and mounting on a bracket to the back of this V-20. It should provide good performance and decent economy.

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

Mine use to be a I/O and I have a full transom of wood. I added a Stainless Marine bracket with full swim platform.

Had a 175 Yamaha when I did it , now a 175 Evinrude

I did all the work myself. Wasn't that bad eaither!

http://syncboard.com/albums/Boat-Tackle-Box/15_G.jpg

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

I'm a little confused, can't figure out how it would not have wood across the whole transom. Mine is the exact same boat one year newer and I know it has wood along the sides of the transom because I drilled thru it to install my thru bolted aux engine bracket.
Ferminator you might want to check it out, I have a sneaky feeling you are in error on that.
Also if you decide for some reason to redo the transom do it with divinacell or marine wood, the sea cast has had a lot of problems for people who have used it..
But again if you have a sea drive boat and it sounds like you do, you will probably find it is more than strong enough for a bracket and V6 outboard. Your only concern will probably be buoyancy of the hull with a heavy outboard when rocking in a swell stem/stern. Make sure you go with a bracket that has good sealed buoyancy, and don't go with too long of a set back.
Mine for example is a V4 two stroke and though my engine has not dunked once it has come close in some heavy drift thru standing wave action we have around here. The boats I have seen and driven with a bracket and the heavier engines tend to dunk the motor more.. Just a thought.

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

Your boat's placard says I/O, yet it's sittin' there w/a Sea-Drive hangin' off the stern...sounds like as that hull went down the factory assembly-line as an I/O, it was diverted to the Sea-Drive assembly by mistake ... apparently it hasn't caused any probs, but if ya decide to ''go bracket'' especially ''full'', then you'll probably wanna add some more reinforcement ... provided all else is right w/ that hull, it'll sure be a worthwile conversion
;) 8) ...


Willy mentioned dunkin' ... a good way to avoid that is to get an outboard w/ a long shaft ... this will put the power-head higher above the water and less likely to ''dunk'' ;) ...

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

This is what I think happened as well. It says right on the placard MODEL V20 I/O, yet it has a sea-drive on it. There are no signs inside of a patch job whatsoever, and the main piece of wood is between the stringer section of the transom. There is a section of wood also where the swim platform is thru-bolted, but there isn't wood across the whole port section of the transom. I removed the tube that the transducer wire passes thru and there is no signs nor traces of wood there. I've got the 140 in my sig to put on it, but it's a 20" shaft so I'll have to try and find the parts to make it a 25" shaft. It has performed well on every boat I've had it on(pushes the 19' bow-rider to low 50's, and pushed my old 19' ANGLER CC to low 40's), and gets decent economy. Just trying to decide If I should try it first or just bite the bullet and redo the transom with COOSA(read some bad reports of divinycell over on classicmako), but I don't know how well it would work with the curved transom.

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

I got a chance yesterday to compare the transom of my V-20 to an 85 V-20 with a sea-drive on it, WHAT A DIFFERENCE! There was hardly no comparision between the two. Mine has a square piece of wood in the transom, it had a u-shaped piece. It also had some very heavy support braces(knees) running from the top of the transom and tied into the stringers at the bottom. It also appeare to have a thicker transon than mine by about a 1/2". I'm convinced now that I have an I/O transom and not the sea-drive transom. But then again, mine was built in 83 for the 84 model year and they might not had braced the transom until later on.

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

Well if that is how Wellcraft started making there I/O models and am sure glad I have a 1975 when they had wood across the hole back!!

I am layered from the inside 1/4 glass, 1 1/2 (two 3/4 ply), and 1/2 glass on the hole thing!

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

That must be how they started making there I/O's because the 85 sea-drive I looked at definately had wood all the way across. There is no cracking in my transom and the wood that is there is good, but it would have to be re-inforced to hang a bracket on it. I'm thinking of installing 2 big braces from top to bottom like the 85 I looked at had and putting a bracket on it with my 140. But I want to sea-trial it first with the current egine to see how it rides and handles. The previous owners rebuild job was less than stellar.

Do you think installing standard pistons in a block that has been bored .020 over will keep it from idling?

At least that's what I'm betting is wrong with it. Should have heard all of the piston slap :o!

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

Well if it weren't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all. Got the powerhead rebuilt which entailed alot more than I was hoping. And got a replacement lower unit since mine was trash. And had to fix dozens of other items. Put it in the water tonight for my first time and ran it.

RAN LIKE CRAP!!! It was surging horribly so I switched over from the 25:1 break-in mix over to some 50:1 that I brought with me. HOLY CRAP BATMAN, she came to life and ran good. I got a total of 2/10 of an hour on it(according to the hour meter) aqnd decided to jump it up on plane. It acted like a real bad miss every once in awhile so I goosed it a little and BAM!!! My replacement lower unit let loose and lost all drive. Still pumping water though. Engine was running good except for the ocasional buck that must of been my lower unit goin.

So now I have to tear down my $280 replacement lower unit and see what went >:(. Not a good first impression with her, but the little bit I had it on plane felt good ;D.

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

Well Ferminator...you're too far in to turn back now...sounds like ya did some good work on the powerhead ;) ... hang in there...it'll all be worth it when ya get it all done 8) ...

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

Vary interesting read on the transom being solid or not.
Hope you can take some pics. of the isuues you have posted. Tear off the transom and lets see whats there. ;D

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

Well now that it's daylight I went out and looked it over and found the problem to be a plastic clevis end in the shift linkage. Now the question is, why did it break? Hopefully old age. But the powerhead seemed to perfom well on the 50:1, did not like the 25:1 at all. Surged like crazy and would smiss and buck at idle. 50:1 and all was good.

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

What's there is very solid, but it doesn't have wood all the way across. It's only 3/4" in between the stringers with another sheet of 3/4" covering about 75% of in between the stringers. After looking at it more there is more than enough room to glass in a pair of knee supports and brace it up like the 85 I looked at.

But gonna run the sea-drive for awhile(if I can keep it running and driving >:().

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

Fermanator...the plastic clevis end...any sense to trying to find a stainless steel or aluminum replacement?... :D ...did it break simply because it's plastic?...

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

That's the one that broke. I'm hoping it broke simply because it's 24 year old plastic. I went down and got an aluminum turnbuckle that I think I can modify to work. Will find out tommorrow, had a barbeque to go to today(free food). I'm hoping that takes care of it. But I'm still wondering why it kicked back hard enough on the linkage to break it and go into neutral.

Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"
 

Things keep getting better. I made an aluminum replacement and it is still trying to pop out of forward. So I decided it was time to pull the lower unit apart. The dogs in the forward gear and the clutch dogs were slightly rounded to the point that it is kicking it out of gear. And the transom has started stress cracking on the port stringer to the transom joint, and some delamination in the inner transom liner. What fun! Amazing what shows up when you put it under load. I know the stringers were solid and the glass was attatched until I ran it, but loading it opened up PANDORAS box. Guess I'll be finding out what's really in that transom after all.