Transom rebuild V20 Jeanne Marie
 

Removed the engine with help from a couple of neighbors, one is a landscaper with a mini tractor. I prepped the engine for removal, thought it would take a half hour to transfer it to the engine stand, wrong! The steering rod was rusted seized in the motor bracket. It took over two hours.

Started digging out the rotted wood with a chain saw. Next is removing part of the splash well for better access including inspecting the stringers.

Photos to follow. Uploading photos is a pain in the arse.

LMK if the links do not work.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/J1DTRrH3eURqCopL8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/u4y4vJuFkcvUV1qRA
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Cx81dnevVvKZh9z18

Had the same issue with the teleflex cable, cut off saw had it out in 2 seconds. figured better to replace than screw with it being 40 yrs old
What year is that hull ? engine?

82 hull. Rebuilt late 80s Mercury 150 HP power head.

Thanks for the photos Bill. Nice. Ya, sometimes steering linkages are a pain in the arse. When you put her all back together get yourself a "Steersman Nut". It allows you to actually inject grease into your steering cable. Prevents problems like you just had. If you're using her in salt get the Stainless one, if in freshwater the aluminum is fine. Not expensive... less than a large pizza with toppings.

I highly recommend remaking your transom into a 25 inch instead of the 20" you have there... But that will mean you will need a 25" engine or a spacer to convert your 20" into a 25". Just something to think about.

Destroyer,
Thank you for the tip! I am planning on rebuilding the transom to 25”.

Dana A, check your PMs. Thx.

sent you a message last night, shows nothing in the sent folder so sent again this morning still nothing in the sent folder
let me know if you getting them

Received. Thank you!

I removed the motor splash well to get better access to dig out the transom and inspect the bulkhead and stringers. As expected, Not good. Hollow sounding spots when tapping the stringers and bulkhead in the stern.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zUd2oycoUBPi7uWe6

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cUveDcUyxAGVULW26

Removed the inner skin of the transom. I cut the fiberglass with a grinder and used chisels and long wood shims to separate the inner skin from the wood.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/tQe4o3Uzn7YZGLEQ8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/g8ehyyrxtXYWpJPp9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WTmWkR4W1gQEQhuQ6

Crazy amount of work. Thanks for sharing.


Cant wait to see it all done!

Added additional supports to the hull. Removed the deck.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/KVpKW5Y9Spwgi5UD8

good idea to go ahead with the deck & stringer(if needed). I'm sure you thought about cap-off but you get it done faster this way.

Are you reusing/recoring the deck or are you going to plywood down and glass over? Use 1/2 in Exterior AB grade douglas fir aka marine grade plywood. DONT use pressure treated plywood.

Plastic fuel tank?

Definitely get a forward bilge pump in there.

Think of everything while you have it opened up!

Looking good.
:clap:

I’m going to use Seacast to replace all the wood in the transom, stingers, bulkheads and keel. I’d like to re-core the deck. Already thought about the forward bilge pump. Thought about moving the 55/60 gal aluminum fuel tank forward to get the stern up a little. Didn’t search this site yet to see if anyone has done it and if there was a benefit worth the trouble.

your 82 was before the foamed in tanks?
Bilge passes under tank? PVC pipe or wood & glass?

Tank in good shape?...thats OLD!

I did an aluminum replacement and re-foamed it in.
I think plastic would be better. I have since seen a Moeller 55 that will work.

I would keep the tank aft.

Bilge passed under the tank via PVC. Tank was foamed in when I bought her in 92. Replaced it around 97.

Cut and removed a portion of the inside fiberglass skin of the fuel tank stringer. The majority of the wood was easily pulled out by hand.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/3CE8kLYcVc2S4RP7A

Video of removing one side of the fiberglass skin in the Bilge under the splash well.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/QpY7Wys1Ff27WZp79

:beer:

Poured the first of three 5 gal buckets of Seacast into the transom. I removed the inner skin to get all the wood out, then glassed it back prior to pouring.

Addl pics

looks good. I thought you were going to switch to 25"

Maybe that was the other guy?

I am increasing the transom to 25”. I deliberately waited to raise it to give me better access to the lower portion of the transom for the 1st pour.

I added the inner skin of the transom cutout yesterday. The plan today or tomorrow is to pour the second of 3 five gallon buckets of Seacast. FYI the spacers are not set and are not going in those locations.

The second pour was delayed until last night. The before pic has most spacers visible. The other two photos were post pour.

Short video post second pour.
https://youtu.be/v-Pqd6Ie1Qo

While you have it opened up, don't forget to re-do your deck drains/hoses/scuppers.

I had a hard time finding original sizes. Ended up changing to new & bigger stainless scuppers

Thank you for the tip Skunkboat!

Nice work you will enjoy it for years to come, I did mine back in 2007/08 with Arjay pourable, I removed the outside skin and remove the rotten wood and pour, to this day not a single problem to report, not to mention I have an etec 135 HO pushing it with all that torque, no flexing.

it's looking good, i do have a question , you used a chainsaw to hollow out the rotten wood, did you go all the way to the edge?

Yes, every piece of wood in the transom was removed. This was made easier because I removed the splash well and inner transom skin.

Poured the last 5 gal bucket of Seacast which topped off the transom and wings. Capped the transom, next is capping the wings.

:clap: Excellent work.