'79 teardown and rebuild.
 

You probably seen my post in the general area about the '79 cuddy I brought home. I figured now that I'm actually working on it now I'd move over here to the repair section.

I knew the transom needed work and hoped it was otherwise solid. Today my wishes were crushed. I cut the cap off of the rear and started gutting the transom.

Cap section removed:
http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...psc9hmm0qd.jpg

Shot of the transom pre demo:
http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...pspd3srj2c.jpg

I was quick to see there was not much left of the transom. There was actually one layer of plywood with just a second layer in the raised area you see around the sterndrive hole. Tapping on it with a hammer showed that only near the top was there any structure left.

Pulled the inner skin off. Rather easily thankfully:
http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2xh4p4mt.jpg

Port side:
http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...psyurjlkro.jpg

Stbd:
http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...pssq93thbi.jpg

The center section of plywood around the sterndrive was mush. Scraped right out. I then used a flat bar between the rest of the wood and the outer skin and it came off surprisingly easy. Probably 70% of it just came off with majority of the layer of CSM with it. You can tell where you can see the woven roven clearly that it came off good there. The other areas left a layer of plywood. I scraped as much wood off first to lessen the sanding and gumming up of my sanding disc.

Here she is with a light sanding over it all. I plan to try and sand all the existing CSM off before reinstalling the transom:
http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...pskcdujw9g.jpg



Port:
http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...psdhqrqsjn.jpg

Stbd:
http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...psm81dqldf.jpg

Now the crummy news. Stringer's are mush. I checked them up to the tank hatch and they are pretty much non existant. So I imagine they'll need replacing all the way up. Not at all what I wanted to find but it is what it is. Just now I have no idea where I'm heading with this project. My very first plan with this boat was to strip it all the way down and rebuild with all composites and make it a center console, skiff type boat. Then I thought just putting a transom in it and running it the way it was sounded good but it appears stringers and I'm sure the deck will need to be re-cored.

My next plan is to pull the gas tank and see if the stringers are rotten all the way up. I'm not holding my breath that they aren't. I really am stumped at what to do. Part of me just wants to build a center console out of this one then maybe sell the green boat as I don't see any reason for having 2 center console (the wife doesn't see any reason for 2 boats period). Then again it's a beautiful boat as is. I guess I'll cut the floor out and see where that takes me. Either way I'm looking at a lot of time and money but in the end I will have a rock solid, non wood boat.

I read online about measuring the transom angle with a carpenters square. So I followed that and found it to have a 13* transom. I found a Stainless Marine bracket for $400 I'm just waiting for it to be removed so I can check that boat and make sure it'll work for me. I read a few places that you can have a +/-2* window that tilt and trim will take up. I know the boat is a Proline but not sure what model. If it has a 11-15* transom it should work for me.

No matter what direction I go with this boat I need to figure out how I'm going to lay the transom in. I plan on going with composite (Coosa I assume is my best option??) however the transom is not only curved like all V-20's but it has a kind of pop out. So I won't be able to lay 1 solid piece in the transom, even if I notch it to make 3 "separate" surfaces. Above the pop out will be 1/2" from touching the core material. Here's some pics. Let me know what route you'd guys would take. Originally they had the popped out section as 2 seperate pieces of wood. Then the rest of the transom arched around it and it was filled in with some sort of filler. I don't really like the idea of completely separated pieces in a transom.

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7gkrrfmo.jpg

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...psittj9dkz.jpg

Here's the bracket I found. Waiting for it to get removed. Priced them at $1300 new so $400 for this one seems good enough for me.
http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...pseuofgseh.jpg

You're not wasting any time tearing into this one!

Boy I wish I could tackle a job like that Keep the pics coming as you move ahead,

Having boat withdrawals. My green boat has been at other people's places for the past 3 months. I just needed to cut into something.

It's easy to do what I've done so far. Trust me I feel I may be getting in over my head. But between friends at home and guys here I feel I can do it. Well with YouTube also.

Also something weird with this boat. The bottom of drain hole is about 2" off the bottom of the hull. This thing holds a lot of water unless I lift the tongue 4' in the air. May have to relocate that as well. The bottom of this plug is where the top of my green boat is. Weird to be that different for the same year.

Had a little time today between work and kids hockey practice so I pulled the tank hatch off, which was not sealed or fastened at all. The tank was foamed in nice and thick. Of course the foam on top of the tank was completely saturated in water and or fuel. I got most of the foam off the top of the tank. I was mostly just curious of what the tank looked like. I can imagine it's going to be a nightmare releasing the tank from the foam.

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...psacrhq65g.jpg

I think I've come to conclusion to keep this hull the cuddy cabin. At this point it's obvious the stringers and floor are gone. Floor has some solid spots but many soft ones too. I'm assuming this may be from the parquet core they used. It seems to have worked properly, only rotting the pieces that had water intrusion. But it seems it has many places for the water to get in.

I was going to cut the floor out tonight but I am now debating trying to get the whole cap off. Just trying to figure out how to do it. It seems stripping as much as I can off the cap to lighten it up. It sucks that I cut the rear of the cap off now that I'm planning on doing this but hey, it is what it is. Planning on removing the cap this weekend.

Thomas, for what it's worth, I saw "Ship Shape TV" Saturday and they were discussing a product that dissolved the foam. It came from "Fiberglass Coatings Inc". Maybe that might make the the tank removal easier. The number for the St. Pete store is 800-272-7890.

Awesome info. Definitely going to look into that. Thanks.

Had about 45 minutes of daylight after work do I pulled the rest of the rubrail off. Then went ahead and removed the windshield. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the helm and all of the wiring out of the boat. I'm trying to make actually pulling the cap an easy, snag free process. But I seriously doubt it'll go like that. Once I get the cap off I plan on reinstalling the part I cut off while it's out since I'll be able to glass the back with nothing in the way.

So opinion time. The stringers seem to be 100% mush. Has anyone thought about filleting the top of the stringers off. Digging out the core and pouring a product like arjay or nida core?

That's my future plan if it isn't too $$$$. I haven't estimated the # of gallons for the stringers yet. I did the transom with CarbonCore http://www.carbon-core.com/carbonbond-transom.htmand I'm very happy with it. Three gallons for an outboard transom.

Get an electric chain saw....

Can't wait to see how you get the cap off. I need ideas...

I have a forklift in my shop with a 10' long pole on the front for picking up rolls of carpet. I'm planning on reinforcing the cap where I removed the rear section. Make up some sort of lifting harness and yank her on out of there. Well I plan to use a little more finesse than that. I'll definitely get some pics.

I saw your transom pour video. I love the idea of a poured transom/stringers. If it's possible to build some sort of dam to create a temporary inner "skin" for the transom I'd love to pour a new transom. Then remove the dam and laminate. Sound possible? Also I have concern of the strength off the stringers being only 3/4" wide. Any thoughts?

carbon core is the new name for the pour-able Nidacore to the best of my noledge

If you build a temporary inner skin make sure it is sufficiently thick or properly braced so it doesn't bow or deform while the compound is curing.

My first pourable transom was made using SeaCast on a 16' PowerCat bass boat. It ended up being over 3" thick in the middle. When the SeaCast was curing a lot of heat was generated and my temporary inner fiberglass skin got soft and deformed. I found out I had a really, really thick transom when drilling it for the motor mount holes.

Unfortunately I have no forklift...

Maybe you could use a PVC board template of your transom(poly resin doesn't stick to it)
No problem with 3/4 stringer. just the volume going to be $$$$. But it will save a lot of time and glass and resin.
Carbon Core is in VA so you can get it without shipping.

Hadn't thought of that. I bet that stuff could expand easily if not braced. I'll take that into consideration for sure thanks.

I read that HPDE board is the best to use. As mentioned I'd need to brace it so I'm thinking maybe 2x4 bracing in the backside of the dam. The Carbon Core looks pretty affordable to me. Between the time and money into building a transom and more time consuming building stringers from scratch I think it'll be well worth the money. They are about 1-1/2 hours from me so when time comes I'm ready I'll definitely make a road trip out there and load up. Thanks for the tip.

HDPE is Starboard...$$$$you would need a 4x8 sheet.
PVC board is cheap.

Besides vinyl, you could use some cheap plywood and cover it with clear packing tape.

When you say "dam" you mean you're going to pour between outer transom and a temporary wall, then remove the wall after it sets and glass over? You need to be sure there are no leaks! (you saw my video).Be aware that the transom on a V20 is not flat across so if you use a flat template or dam, you will be thicker on the centerline. You going to have to think that thru...

I would probably glass a couple layers of skin to the template with excess tabs hanging over sides, pop it loose and glass that in place(keep your 1.5" thickness of transom). Then use the template as a brace for your pour.

Ok. I see. Make a template out of PVC board. "Laminate" that. Seperate those 2 and tab the inner skin in then fill. Seems like a good plan. I guess I can make some sort of jig to curve the template as I glass it then use it again to reinforce the inner skin while I pour.

Unfortunately I haven't gotten to touch the boat this weekend. Trying to shorten the infinite honey-do list as much as I can so when I order $1000 work of fiberglass and core material maybe it will ease the burn. Probably not though.

Boy, have I got the perfect material for you, there's a company in Miami call Poly-u-mac, they sell a product called Gatorboard, is like a foam sandwidched in between fiberglass, extremely light but very strong. I reinforced the stringers next to the gas tank with it, 1 1/2 I used. Very easy to cut and to work with, I'vee seen a transom made with this material holding 3 300 HP outboards.

So this happened today.
 

Well all you cuddy guys are probably going to curse my name but after I really got into this boat it was obvious that 90% of the wood in it was soaked. Wash boards, sole, cuddy roof...all of it. I drilled test holes everywhere and found everything is wet. Nothing that was screwed to the deck or cuddy top was sealed. So after a few nights of sleeping on it I said F-it. Get the sawzall out!!

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...psy6kr6bhn.jpg

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...psu6hpbmg3.jpg

My original plan for this boat was center console conversion. Then I tossed the idea of keeping it as is and having one of each. Well I brought my green boat home from the motor guy last week and even he was disappointed with the quality of fiberglass work as he received multiple glass splinters working in the bilge plumbing the motor. So here's the new plan and now there's really no turning back.

Get my green boat put back together good enough to use. I'm going to redo pretty much everything but the actual transom (splashwell, reshaping the transom). The edges of the transom look terrible and the splashwell was pieced together 2x4's and plywood. So I'm going to make it right as possible and put a new paint job on it (I'd stick with the geeen but for some reason it was sanded 8" up the sides so now it all needs paint). Then use the boat while I work on this one.

This boat will be obviously rebuilt from the ground up. My original plan was making a flat cap boat just like Kracker Jacks build. I like the thought of a work boat, skiff type hull. To me it gives you more room and a simpler build. After doing some measuring the sides would be much shorter with a flat cap. I thought about lowering the sole but I'd like to keep it a self bailing deck. So after cutting the cap today I'm thinking about just using this cap to build off of.

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...ps17u4x0g4.jpg

I really like the look the boat has with this cap. The plan is to use as much composite as possible. The stringers are 85% hollowed out for me so I'm thinking about a CarbonCore pouring the transom and stringers. As far as the deck and wash boards I haven't researched as much on that yet. I see Coosa and the honeycomb material but not educated enough to know what's the best to use. We will see how this goes and it will be a long process as I'm in no rush to hurry this thing and do something I'll regret.

Anyways and suggestions from you guys as far as materials to use and things like that are very welcome. And sorry SkunkBoat about not pulling the cap.

Also I have many parts I pulled off the boat that will be free for the taking for anyone here. I got all the glass in good shape, dash with helm and steering cable in good shape I believe. Sliding hatch (2 piece slider), fishing rod boxes, all the trim from the cuddy door, folding cuddy door with the glass in good shape. Let me know what ya need. I may have it. Oh and I guess this enclosure I have will be no good for me. It's a Bimini frame, sliding mounts for the gunnel and the canvas and vinyl.

I would like to have the fishing rod boxes. Shipping them to Texas might be fairly expensive though.

The picture with the tree leaves in the background changing to fall colors is very nice..

Yea I could imagine that'd be a big box and they are very brittle. My original plan for them was to have a local shop spray the back of them with a chop gun. They are cheap plastic. We are getting a lot of fall foliage here now. Very pretty, but falling in the boats.

suggestion...save all those pieces you cut because you will find many places where you wish you had a flat piece of solid glass already made.

...and pre-made corners!!!!

keeping the cap was a great idea..

another reason not to replace a transom from the outside.

I don't like that the corners were cut to the edge. he could have left 6 inches all around ( of strong original glass). then all of the work would have been on the transom.

What an awesome idea!!! Too bad I didn't come up with it before I hauled the stuff to the dump :arrr: I kept the gas tank hatch thinking someone may need it as it's actually pretty solid. If no one wants it I'll use it for something I'm sure.

It sucks the shipping on most of this stuff would be outrageous because I'd rather give it to someone here then sell it locally, but if no one here can get any of it then I guess I'll throw it on Craig's and see if I can't get some resin money out of the stuff. My plan is to use all epoxy so that's gonna put a dent in the old wallet.

If you're going to pour Carbon Core, remember that it is polyester resin. You should use poly in places where they will contact the wet pour.

the rule...as I was told... is you can use poly on hardened poly, Epoxy on hardened poly and epoxy on hardened epoxy, but you can't use poly on hardened epoxy.

So your transom skins should be patched/fabricated/tabbed/coated using polyester resin. Then when that and the pour is all set, you can go over it with epoxy for strength

you should have kept the preformed hatch cutouts also....as Homer would say "DOH!"

I have also read that. Very useful information. Thanks. If I do the stingers I plan on laminating everything with a layer of CSM mostly to make sure there is no holes so if that's what I'll do I'll definitely use poly resin for that.

The inside of the hull is very rough woven roving with resin flung everywhere. I reckon Wellcraft figured out of sight, out of mind. So I plan on sanding it down and putting at least 1 layer of CSM on that also to give it a little smoother surface since now it will be visible. I'll probably use epoxy for that but that will be after everything is poured.