Replace floor with??
 

Working on my new to me V20. All solid except the floor by the CC is soft. What do I replace it with 3/4 ply? Then what? It has rounded edges I will need to belt sand that but what then can I finish it all with to last a long time and look like the rest of the boat. Bed liner? Epoxy resin then bed liner?? I figured peopler here would know. Thanks!

if you are talking about the gas tank cover, best way is to remove the console(yes you will have to derig it) and pull the gas tank cover, flip it over and dig the rotted wood out, leaving the fiberglass and gelcoat untouched, then glass new wood to the back side

Ahhhh got it,,, didn't know that... perfect thanks!

This post just saved untold thousands of dollars and God knows blood sweat and tears.

I have a gallon of resin but I bought it 3 years ago I've heard it has a shelf life do you think it would be okay if I went heavy on the hardener?

Is marine plywood different or better than simple treated wood at the lumberyard? You know... the green stuff. Thx

Yes, Marine AB plywood is Douglas Fir. Not sure what the Big Box stores carry. Doing a quick search says you can even get marine ply wood at these places.
http://www.roseburg.com/Product/abmarine/

As for the Epoxy... I've used stuff that is expired before with no problems. Just do a test batch to make sure it work for you.

Yes, you want MARINE plywood, not PRESSURE TREATED. Resin adheres better with out the chemicals. I would think if the resin is unopened and sealed up tight it could still be used. Like mentioned before make a test batch first. Probably a good idea anyway no matter how old.

But no don't 'go heavy on the hardener'.... Mix at normal ratio.

I have successfully used 2 part epoxy paint (Con-Lux) that was over 10 years old on a trailer. Worked perfectly. Mix up a test batch at normal ratios to confirm it's usability. But I'm guessing it will be fine.

I've used pressure treated plywood successfully but only after drying it out completely by sitting the plywood behind our woodstove. I then treated the plywood with a slow cure penetrating epoxy to eliminate rotting issues.

However marine grade plywood is certainly a better but at a much greater cost.

Even better then marine grade plywood would be coosa board.

Thanks guys. I was really hoping not to have to take it out but guess I gotta bite the bullet.

Thanks for the link!

So after I get the plywood peeled off I mix some epoxy resin and pour it in the shell then lay the ply in that? Is that right? Next I would need to resin the top WITH cloth or no? What would be good to clean the shell with after I get the ply scrapped out so the new resin and ply stick? This is the tank cover / seat support so it gets a LOT of use sure don't want the ply coming loose. Thanks!

I would hot coat the plywood and used thickened resin on the shell. I used a notched trowel to spread the resin on my hatches. I also used pieces of plywood rather than a full sheet. I cut my plywood to fit then I cut the piece into smaller pieces and left a little bit of space in between each piece. Then I forced more thickened resin in the joints and glassed over the top. I was very happy with the strength, we'll see how it holds up.

What is 'hot coat' the plywood? Thanks

Started the floor repair. It sure was shot. Gonna get Marine ply this week sometime after work and lay it it with resin I hope.

I don't know what the "proper" fix is, but when I re-did my floor after I put the plywood down I used a thin woven sheet of fiberglass cloth on top of the wood...that way the wood is permanently sealed so no water can rot it out again... just a thought

A couple more tips these guys taught me when I did mine was,

cut the holes out after everything is all said and done. And then coat the edges .

Drill some holes in the plywood to let the resin find a place to go instead off squeezing out the edges.

Put some Saran Wrap or some kind of plastic between the access holes and your work table so you don't glue your hatch to the work bench!

Oh and get lots of heavy things ready before hand to set on top of the ply., sand bags, tool boxes cinder blocks. And make sure your work table is perfectly flat, floor works well too

Yes I agree I have the cloth for that.

Thanks. Interesting the way the wood was all small pieces. I am thinking of doing 3" strips to allow the resin to form a line all the way up to what will be the cloth / glass bottom.

That keeps water from one screw hole from wicking thru the entire floor.

Well got the first piece of ply down. Gonna do 8" strips. Then glass over it when I'm done. I did drill some holes and filled them with resin then flipped it and glued it down. getting concerned though it's been 3 hrs and its not setting up! It is only about 60. I ended up firing up the furnace in the garage. Anything for a boat right?!

A heat lamp or halogen light goes a long way to kick off the resin

Yea I set up a heater under it. It's starting to set up.

Strips will work, but the strongest floor will be if you use odd shaped pieces of wood, like a jig saw puzzle made of different sized rectangles. You don't want long longitudinal or vertical seams, since the seams themselves are only resin with no wood and so will be weak points in the floor. Understand I'm being picky here. Like I said, strips will work, just pieces are better.

I am going to add support in two places. The rib between the stringers I will extent up to support the repaired cover. This is directly under the seat weight so should work great. And another one over the gas tank that is supported on each side with those L brackets to the stringers. I'll resin and cloth the new support as well. It is a bad design I think that there was no support and all the weight is on that lip on the cover the 3/4" wood itself isn't even directly supported it is relying solely on the resin and cloth. For something so effective and so easy I have no idea why they didn't do this. Time and money I guess...

Just about done now :beer: I think one of the reasons it's best to do pieces is a sheet of plywood is naturally not perfectly flat. Doing it in pieces helps straighten that out and easier to judge and deal with the resin mixing when your not doing a lot at once. I had an issue once after only a few minutes my resin bucket got too hot to touch and it wasted about 1/2 a gallon! Guess I should have kept it on ice or something? But ever since then I've been a little gun shy of mixing a lot at once.

Nice job, Huron...only thing I would add is bevel the edges where your fabric lays over the ends of your strips...makes it easier for the fabric to lay down and helps prevent air bubbles under it...

I did my '84 cuddy when I first got it and darned if I didn't FORGET the step where you glass it to the underside of the fiberglass and weight it down like you wisely did...duh!

I did belt sand the edges down a little should have done more it did try and lift the fabric but it eventually got sticky enough to stay down. Man it's solid now!!!

I've have a lot of those WTF did I just do!! Moments myself? ha

Awesome job on the gas tank cover I am actually getting ready to do mine as it is the only place on the deck that is a little soft. Thanks for the step by step gets me motivated to do mine. Just unsure of what type of resin and cloth to use any advice?

sorry I have no idea why I didn't see your post. Or wait I know what happened... summer!!! lol Anyway I just used a clear epoxy resin like this or similar but I'm sure your done now?? http://www.ebay.com/itm/EPOXY-RESIN-...BMA5LOhpf714rQ