painting bottom
 

has any one used interlux vc proformance to paint the bottom. i know this is not to be a anti fouling paint.my boat is kept high and dry on a lift 90% of the time. if so can you sand down hull real good and then roll paint on. i got a quote from a guy in morehead city to farrow blast and then put 4 or 5 coats on. makes the boat look really good. when i do this i am also going to change the boot stripe to a black 1 1/2 wide stripe. just seeing if it worth it to try it myself and save some$$$$$$

what on advise yet? my biggest problem is finding a place to do this if I do it myself.

I searched d along time and after seeing this stuff my mind was made up. What more could you ask for? !!! But I'll hold my opinion of it until I actually use it. I am going to set my boat on the keel on some cinder blocks and spray. Not anytime soon though.. I'm in Michigan. Right now it's -8 degrees!!! :[

opps forgot the link http://www.bottompaintstore.com/revo...t-p-12343.html

they sell gallons too of course.

Hi Huron,
I have an 88' V20 cuddy that needs painted too. A boat repair shop on lake Erie advised me to use Martin Senour paints from NAPA parts.

I used martin senour paint in the 60s-70s to spray paint my car and truck, I liked it, but hadn't thought about using it for a boat.
Anyone here have any experience using it on a boat? Any reasons to use it or not to use it?
btw I spray painted cars in the garage and yard on calm days back then and still had good results.

Regards,
TJ
13Echo70271

I can't believe the prices people pay for boat paint. Every boat I've ever painted inside or out has been done with paint from Marine Industrial Supply here locally. I'm sure yall could find something similar where you are at as they sell a lotof paint for offshore rigs, ship yards, tugs, etc....

Anyways I use their International Interthane 990. It's a 2 part urethane that looks at good as any of those $100 a pint high end boat paints and it's TOUGH. It lasts too...One of the guys that works there has and red jeep painted with it and it looks better than new. It runs 55-$70 a gallon. I would never pay the prices people do for all those fancy yuppie "boat" paints.

I will be using it for the bottom as well as the topside. I'm not sure how well paint not intended for %100 water contact would hold up?? I really have no idea. A fiberglass hull flexes a bit too. I'm 50. I'm going with the $160 yuppie paint. ha I remember a saying something along the lines of, if your really happy with how something turned out even 10 years later you can't recall how much you spent. But if it screws up bad the first year you will always remember how much you 'saved'.

Everyone has their own thoughts on the matter of painting. Personally, if my boat is going to be a trailer queen I'd never paint it. And if I had to paint it because of blisters or something like that I'd first have it soda blasted to bare, then put on the proper primer if called for and then I'd use a Urethane epoxy paint. It flexes, has great adhesion and lasts longer than the boat. Some of the best paint in this class is made be ..... Sherman-Williams!.. (They bought out ConLux paints a while back, and Conlux was used to paint the Tappen Zee bridge, as well as many high salt air exposure projects) I've painted 3 trailers with the stuff and all 3 are still in perfect condition more than 8 years later.

Hi D,
I agree it's all a personal choice. Btw Martin Senour was also bought by Sherwin Williams a while ago. SW is in Cleveland OH
TJ

Sherwin williams has a awesome 2 part poly system. And they will crossreference and tint any color you want. The reason i went with Awlgrip is because of the insane deal i got on my paint system from a local boat yard. The VC performance epoxy was originally made for race sale boats. The vc is what i will paint my bottom with. No primers required just paint over preped gelcoat!

Yep...that's what I'm talking about. That 2 part poly system is actually a ConLux formula. They willalso match ANY color paint chip you bring in... they have a special computer that scans the chip and then makes the paint formula to match it..
As to a primer, that's why I said "if called for". And Awlgrip is an awesome paint. I know several people that have used it for their boat's decks with great results.

just to clarify, if you are going to leave your boat in the water for extended periods of time, you will need a barrier coat/bottom paint/antifoulant on the bottom, if you use a top side paint on the bottom of your boat, you should be fine unless you leave it in the water for extended times. How long are extended times? Depends on where you are, temperature and type of water you are in. I left my McKee in the water with no bottom paint from before thanksgiving till after new years with no issues, but the water was cold and growth was down. During the summer, two weeks and it would have an inch of hair and silver dollar size blisters on the bottom. If you leave a boat in the water with topside type paint in the water for long times, you are going to have blisters on the bottom.


As far as topside paint goes, I've used all kinds. Awlgrip is not the easiest paint to work with, their primers are hard as concrete, but it is a very good paint. Alex Seal is quickly overtaking Awlgrip and offers many more choices of finsihes and colors. Cheap paint vs expensive paint? Ask yourself what your prep time was worth.With the amount of time I spend on sanding and prep, its hard for me to justify cheaper paint that "May" not be as good


Keep in mind my personal boats are usually pretty ugly bare, chalky, unwaxed gel

Im am with ya bud. I like to think side of the box when it comes to products like that.

My boat spends it's summers at a mooring in RI. so I have to use an antifouling bottom paint. For the past few years I have been using Interlux ACT. It goes on fairly thin when applied with a roller and since it is ablative it doesn't build up. I usually buy a gallon and get two to three seasons out of it.

George