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Finally starting CC Restoration
Got the boat a few years ago and now I've got time and shop to begin repairs. This year It's getting a new transom, new aft bulkhead, leaning post, engine, complete rigging, hydraulic steering, electronics, fill 42 holes in console and spray, get rid of wood panel over gas tank and glass over and install inspection plates, replace all teak trim and anchor locker door. There's probably more but that's def enough to get done by striper spring run.
Next year, re-core deck and modify console and maybe install windlass. It's a 1977 v20 fish I've been reading posts for a while and have to thank you all for motivating me by seeing your work. |
Welcome to the site!
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Nicely done. You obviously know your way around tools. Welcome to the site. Looking forward to more pics as this restoration continues. :clap:
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Looking great !
I love the 70's center consoles. |
thanks guys. I'm learning as I go with the fiberglass work, this is the first big fiberglass I've gotten into. I'm a mechanic and electrician by trade but I'm liking working with fiberglass b/c I can do anything I want and if it's not good I can just cut it out and do over. And by all means, feel free to let me know if you may have advice or comments.
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Welcome to the site! Great looking job! You'll be done before you know it, keep up the good work. Fiberglass work is not hard, just takes a little time. Love those 70s lines!!
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Lookin awesome man!!
Only comment I would make is that I had the floor Livewell in my CC and hated it! Splashed out when the door was open and closed. I ended up hangin new livewells on the transom(closed) and it worked wonderfully. There's a million different setups but I hated the in-deck one the most. Plus if you're like me you go through alot of bait. Who wants to be up and down off the floor all day???? |
Yeah, I'm thinking of either cutting off the well on mine and just having some extra bilge access or insulating it better and making it into a cooler/storage. I will be going with the leaning post livewell. Since I am going the bracket route I want to get as much weight away from the transom anyways.
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I hear you about kneeling to get bait.
Insulating is a great idea although most days I reach for a beer more than bait. I'm also putting a leaning post and I can fit a livewell there and use the space under the deck for cooler that may work out good. That bulkhead I'm installing is going to seal that compartment. Then extending pvc pipe drain from fwd box to aft bilge. Then install a fitting to a mascerator to pump out the compartment. Or- I could seal the compartment, keep the drain from fwd box and use mascerator to empty both, then put a plug or valve to close off fwd box when I don't want it to drain. Thanks for your ideas and experiences. |
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Here is my livewell solution. Cut the bottom outta the old one and kept the hatch. I keep all my pumps under there now.....Cant tell you how nice it is to have your own livewell in the corner. Keeps everyone from bum-rushin the center of the boat for bait...... http://http://i542.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps4584623c.jpg |
I have that same livewell. Going to put in boat and measure after I can dig it out of the snow in a dockbox in back yard. I saw a pump made by Whale at the Mesco show this fall that was all plastic and sealed. I'll let you know how it works. The metal body pumps seem to last 2 yrs max if there near saltwater.
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Wow man that's a clean hull. I used a gulper pump instead of a macerator for my fish box. It's going on 4 years old and pulls a better prime than the macerator pump did. Are you gonna do a t-top? I know you were talking about a 200 hpdi but did you ever consider an optimax? I just rigged a 150 on my dad's new v20 and I was very impressed with the power it had. We picked it up at Almar's for $8995 new in the box.
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Thanks Pete, Gelcoat is SO thick on this boat, I was able to do 2 coats of super duty compound, 2 coats finess it #2 and 2 coats of Colonite wax. And it still looks like that after being oiled and beat by Sandy.
I was thinking Yamaha b/c I have new control box and full rigging including fuel mgmt. I haven't run too many OPTI's. How's the noise level, smoke and fuel usage? I want my wife and daughter to be able to not get nauseous. Next month I will be agressively looking for a 25" motor. Hopefully a deal where it needs work or something. |
I have a 225 Opti on my boat. It is a little louder than the carbed 150 Yamaha I used to have. But it actually gets better fuel economy. I only get a puff of smoke when getting up on plane after a lot of idle speed. If you already have most of the rigging than the HPDI is the way to go. A lot of people are repowering with the new F200. So I'm sure a 200 HPDI will turn up soon. If you need a hand checking out a motor just let me know. I can bring the laptop to see what kind of run history and fault history it has.
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Thanks for the download offer, I may take you up on that when i find one.
From your other post, might do a t-top next year after the deck is repaired and I see how the boat rides. I haven't run this boat since I got it so I'm not sure if I'm goin to need a t-top. I also have a Wellcraft 250 Coastal for nasty days and family trips. so probably not going to much on the v20 for a top. both boats have gunnel mount outriggers and the v20 will have leaning post with rodholders. |
Been making progress slowly but surely. Getting in the shop between everything else going on. I've put 9 layers of 1708 biaxial and will be putting 2 layers of mat on the outer transom. Been patching unneeded holes and stress cracks with leftover material. I'm hoping to spray gelcoat by the end of next week.:beer:
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Lookin' good Johnson!
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That's some good looking glass work. I'm glad to see you're still making progress.
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thanks guys, I just hope I didnt add too much weight back there. Been keeping the shop at 80 for an hour after layingup and the resin has been setting up nice. I'm using a winter resin that stays thin and cures when temps are inconcistent.
I had deck drains thru the transom with check balls. Has anyone converted to side drains or modified to improve the previous setup. I'm powering with a 200 hpdi if I can find one. |
I put my drains out the side. I used inline check valves that TH Marine makes. It works pretty good except about once a year I have to disassemble the check valves and clean out all the dog hair that gets in there and clogs it up. If you don't have a dog it will work pretty good.
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On one of REEL's boats he had the drains going out the back wall of the cockpit instead of the floor...don't know if it makes it better or not.
I bought a set of drains like he has but have yet to put them in. Maybe he will come along and post a pic and give a review. |
I DO NOT recommend eliminating the side discharge thru hulls. I did on mine and have the deck drains emptying into the splashwell to eliminate two extra holes in the hull. Drains a lot slower and whatever crud you have on your deck ends up in the splash well. Sounded like a good idea, just didn't work that way.
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This how the drains were setup. Now with the new transom, before I drill holes I want to be sure thru transom is the best considering that im putting a 200hp on. The dual batteries will now be under console to help balance the extra weight. Oh also the transom is 25" now
http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/v...4/4495053a.jpg http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/v...4/e20e1df2.jpg |
If it were me Johnson, I'd run them out the sides of the hull instead of through the transom. Don't need to drill any more holes in the wood at or even below the water line than you have to. I would wait to hang the outboard first and see how she floats before drilling the new ones too. You want them to be as high as possible, but they need to drain well too.
p.s. I can tell thats gonna be a sweet looking V. |
Thanks Bradford, The thought crossed my mind to wait and see the water line. I will be at the shop tomorrow to see how that lays out.
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Here is how I did my deck drains. I thought about going out the side but figured if I ever took on a good amount of water it would drain better going out the back if I could get up some speed.
http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachme...66-website.jpg http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachme...61-website.jpg http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachme...62-website.jpg |
As far as drilling through that new transom I know the feeling. I didn't even want to drill the holes to mount the jackplate after all that work. Just treat it like an exterior portion of the boat.
I overdrilled the holes. Loaded up some 6" paint rollers and kept swabbing the holes until there was barely any exposed grain. Then thicken some resin and put a nice thick layer in there with your gloved finger, wait for cure and use your drill with a little smaller hole-saw bit with some adhesive backed sandpaper on it to sand it down to where your thru hulls with checks just fit. Very simple and goes quick. |
Randleman mentioned mine above...here's what I did from outside...fittings and hose all 1 1/2" ...used plastic for cost reduction figuring if I ever recore this particular hull, they'll be upgraded to SS
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...n/IMG_0234.jpg Here's the hose connecting the two fittings...Pete's has the backflow valves I would like to put in here someday... http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...n/DSCN1300.jpg And here's the interior fitting Randleman mentioned...I REELY like these as the opening is right down on the floor deck for water drainage...nothing to dam the flow...they also allow better drainage over the original in-floor drains because those had 90* elbows just under the floor which could lead to a clog, PLUS water going through from floor level actually had to go back UP to drain out of the boat...these allow all downward flow http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...n/DSCN1301.jpg Here's the thru hull w/200 Merc and batteries moved forward...but while fishing, if two guys at back of boat this did allow water in, so that's why it'll eventually get back flows like Pete's http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...n/IMG_0114.jpg Personally I like 'em out the sides instead of thru transom...good luck and keep the great posts comin"!! |
Reely like those better Reel. You're right about the 90 causing them to flow a lot slower. After re doing my V I think I would have installed access hatches in the rear above where your drains are. Almost impossible to get to that area to install/check hull fittings and hose clamps. Better have some long arms when you drop your screwdriver down there and it's laying against the out side of the stringer. Something someone might consider doing.
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Thanks all. those pics explain it all. Sometimes I'm a better looker than reader.
I haven't touched the boat for a few weeks, hope to spend some time as the weather gets better. This winter has really been tough to work around even with the boat being inside, i have to run a diesel heater in there and that gets expensive. I'm READY for spring!! |
As tartuffe was saying, I personaly over drilled all my holes thru the transom a 1/2 an inch bigger than the needed hole. I then hot coated the raw transom ply with thinned resin....then i filled the entire hole back in with thickend peanut butter consistency resin and added some milled fibers for some integrity. after all that kicked off I drilled the holes to the appropiate size . what this does is creates a ring of resin 1/4 inch thick around your hole. I even went as far as roughing the hole with 80 grit and brushing and dabbing 2 coats of gelcoat and on top of that and glued my brass drain tubes in!!! my drain holes are bullet proof. your boats gonna be sweet, good luck with your build.
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getting ready for the water
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Looking good there!
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more progress July 2014
I've got a few things done in the past few weeks. Trying to be ready for the water by this weekend for the BB raft-up. It won't be finished completely by then but it should have the essentials.
http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/v...psabczh7vw.jpg http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/v...psdzljgyhm.jpg |
Looking good!
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