Cap is off
 

Started at 6 this morning and at about 9:30 I had the cap off. I had to jack the boat up and put a 2x4 under the cap edge on the bow then lower the trailer and bounce on the tongue to get it broke loose. To discover foam we sprayed in the bow. Glued it up pretty tight. Next came the transom, after winching, raising and lowering the bow, and opening a pretty good sized stress crack in each corner of the cap I figured the splashwell was glued to the transom. Tore the fiberglass off the back edge of the splashwell, and it was glassed in. I think I hit it with a hammer and flat bar about five times before it gave way.

Got the hull out from under the cap. Now some bad news. Looks like I am replacing every stringer and floor (cross stringers) in the boat, up to the cuddy liner. Everything is rotted out and where one stringer meats another stringer its broke. After seeing this on TWO Wellcrafts now, I am thinking about running twin stringers glassed together in place of one stringer.

I did not know the stringer cavities on the outside edges were completely filled with foam. There should be enough foam in it, to keep it afloat if something bad happens. Right now I am removing the foam around the gas tank with a chainsaw to have a look at the tank. Pics a little later. :beer:

Get er done.. Those 4x6 do the job? Pictures, please.. I gotta see.

Yes, the 4x6 did not even bend the slightest.

Bow broke loose

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Cap off and winched all the way to the 4x6s.

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And now the bad.

Transom rot.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...rebuild007.jpg

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Broken stringers

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Gas tank removal FUN!! And I still have not got it broke loose even with all the foam removed from around the sides of the tank.

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Why the cut down stringers???

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Hull as it sits now

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...rebuild016.jpg

Cap, resting on a 4x6 up front and a 4x4 on the rear

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...rebuild018.jpg

Here you can see where I tore a section of the splashwell lip out to break the cap loose from the transom.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...rebuild017.jpg

Holy smokes Batman!!!!! That's a lot of work dude.

still cant bidge the tank. About to hook up to a tree and pull.

Yeah. I was hoping the stringers would be ok. Still fighting the fuel tank. Already broke one strap. Lifted the boat about a half inch off the trailer and wanted to let it sit for a while. Ten seconds later i heard ripping saw the boat drop and a strap end fly up. This is getting fun now. I have already tore one bulk head out and sawed under the tank.

two words..... cable saw


BTW good work and don't sweat the "broken stringers" That's just the glass skin.... your skin would tear too if your bones rotted away.... rebuild it like it was and it'll be PLENTY strong for as long as the wood lasts.

You think 3/4" stringers will be ok with a bracket and possibly a 225/250hp outboard or twins? Right now I have a 2.5L Merc 200 to go on it, but I am considering some modifications to it that will put it at least at 225. I was thinking twin 100/125s later on.

On the joint where I tore the bulkhead out, the wood was like dirt on both sides. I think if I am going to go thru the trouble of rebuilding it, I would rather do it right and keep all the water out of the wood.

Finally got the fuel tank out! I hooked a bigger strap around the tank lifted the boat again but this time I drove wedges under the tank. Scary at first because I did not know if I was hearing ripping glass or ripping foam. I was really surprised at how the foam itself tore in places rather than releasing from the tank. Have I mentioned I hate the smell of putrid rotted salt water?

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GREAT pics of your work.. I really appreciate the fact that I now know what my boat looks like under the skin. Thanks a million....:clap:

Damn man thats HUGE progress right there! Love the picture updates!

by all means seal it up for sure.... my monte carlo has 3/4" stringers and it has twin 260 I/O's

My personal opinion is that the hp doesn't have a great deal to do with the stringer size.... I've seen so many boats in which the stringers were hardly even connected to the transom....

I'm not a boat builder but I'd say that as long as your transom is solid and tied in to the stringers, cap, and hull, then the weight of the engine (balance of boat) will become a problem before you have to worry about structural failure.

I'm looking at your pictures and I'm having flashbacks!!!!!! It's making my stomach nasueas!!! Lol!!! Man I remember when mine looked like that. It was shear determination to prep that hull for stringers. I look back at it now and smile, knowing what I acommplished. I wish you were closer so I could come help you. Just remember its all worth it!!!

Like smoke said tabbing your transom to sides of hull and tabbing your stringers is key. Also alternating direction of your 1708 will also improve strength. The 1708 patches that I put on my transom that were almost 18 inches wide and progressive will also distribute weight of the motor. The patches were put at motor bolt hole pattern on the inside of the transom.

Nice work I am glad the fuel tank in mine was just replaced & All the work done in there, Just have a few soft spots near the back floor.

BTW nothing smells better than Low tide in the morning. :sun:

Keep it up you guys I need some inspiration ..... Nice work so far

I just realized something I need to do.....

The infloor livewell HAS got to go! I dislike it almost as much as the bottom paint. Going to get a BFH now and fix it.

Great pics....the time to fix my floor is coming near and i know that pulling the cap is the right way to do it....doesnt look so bad when seeing it like that

Bring her on down! I got the lift set up and ready for action! I thought it would be worse than what it actually was. The hardest part is the splashwell where the motor mounts, its glassed to the transom. Other than that, its as simple as start lifting and disconnecting wires, and hoses as you can get to them. Faster than reaching thru the rod boxes and getting ate up with fiberglass.

MJ can i get 'rebuild time" added to my thread title? This is going to be my rebuild thread.

This weekends project is cleaning the garage out. Also plan to remove the cuddy liner.

has anyone built a cradle for a V20? the guys on pensacola fishing forum are pushing hard for it, mainly to prevent a hook in the hull.

Exceptional pictures and work Jason!
Thanks for posting them!
Dang that's a pile of work.

In case, I have not said it yet, Thanks for everybody's replies and advice. :clap:
My computer absolutely hates photobucket :arrr: , but seeing how well they show on here makes it worth it. Besides for some reason my camera pics wont upload straight on the manage attachments bar.

Depending on how well this project goes, I may keep the 18 Fisherman, I have some ideas for her. Possibly cutting the sides down all the way around and turning her into a flats/bay boat with a custom layout and casting decks. And she might be getting the 2.5L Mercury 200 if I repower the V20. Hell it weighs the same as a 150 JohnnyRude.

Been having the same problem lately with Photobucket, old computer it would work great, this new Dell -- Well....


That is a ton of work you got done is she ready for paint yet?

LOL. It will be a while before she is ready for paint. still trying to get the garage cleaned out. I did get the cuddy liner broke loose yesterday and have to lift it out now.

Great thread and pics. I would build everything stronger than you would need now that you've gone this far. My fuel tank was a pain too, know what you mean about the swamp/sewer smell underneath.

Had three teeth pulled today and hoped to work on cleaning the garage. No luck, I was hurting so bad I HAD to get my pain medicine script filled. I had hoped to throw it away as I have done all the others.

Anyways the V had a substantial amount of water in it from rain. And it was draining out......... from around the high speed pickup mounted on the hull. Pretty good drip too. The V has always pulled hard to the starboard side. the pickup is mounted on the starboard side about a foot from the keel right where the cuddy starts. its in a bad location for what i need. i need it towards the stern for my livewell and washdown. should i move the pickup to the rear and repair the hole? just because it is a hole in the bottom of the boat i may have a pro do it.

Wow that's some incredible work you've done ...... all the way to the bone.

Now you can re build the transom to be stronger than original - and therefore handle nearly any outboard you want to rig.

Good luck with it.

glassing the bottom is no worse than glassing anything else BUT if you for some reason don't want to then seal it up with a new thruhull and 5200 then plug it with a bronze pipe cap or a bushing and a bull plug.... my montecarlo had 4... 3 'ducers and 1 speed temp when I got it.... I put 1 'ducer in w speed temp built in and plugged all 3 of the others this way.

This also leaves you a place to hook up a raw water washdown in the future.

Jason I have all the confidence in the world that you can repair that hole. The internet and YouTube and other boat sites will tell you all the info you need to do a progressive patch on that spot. Can you acess the inside of that repair or only the outside?

i can get to both the inside and outside. its just one of those things that i would feel paranoid about everytime i wet the boat lol . My West Systems book has a few different methods to repair it. I am leaning towards dishing out BOTH sides at an 8:1 ratio then doing an entire wet layup for the most strength. The V always had a wet bilge I just thought it was water leaking thru the floor livewell, either way it was a surprise to see water dripping like that from the pickup. Still trying to decide on epoxy or polyester resin. I will repair this hole with epoxy just for piece of mind. might even get some carbon fiber cloth to use in it

Smoke, the location of this hole is in a bad spot. Hard to access, and it is almost against a stringer. Not to mention I dont want any more holes in the bottom than I need. I was hoping to mount a high speed pickup on the bottom towards the stern. The way i plan to build the transom area i will have tons of access there for a livewell and saltwater washdown connections.

I highly recommend use epoxy resin.... MUCH 'gooder' and much harder to screw up.
IMHO it is well worth the extra expense.

With regard to your boat pulling hard to starboard, that has more to do with your trim tab (behind the prop) not being adjusted correctly. I can turn my boat with one finger to port while it takes my entire hand with some muscle to go to starboard. My trim tab is boogered up so it cannot be properly adjusted.

Tartuffe I had the trim tab kicked to port side quite a bit. I think with the pickup mounted forward like it is gives it more "leverage" I did get the pipe that runs under the fuel tank removed and now the boat will drain. now i have a sea of foam to deal with. i knew i should have vaccumed it out when dry. the cuddy liner is loose ready to be pulled when i get a chance to lift it out. i really do not think it is going back in.

Got the cuddy liner out. It is not going back in. I can do better than that...... I hope. I have hammer tested everywhere in the boat. The only solid member left is the piece in the bow that is v shaped. So everything will have to come out.

Jason that's some GREAT WORK!...that's just what my '84 needs...I'm surprised to see that much foam!...as ya put it all back anticipating bigger HP, just remember you can put it back STRONGER no doubt...but more weight is more weight and it may tend to squat w/too much.

So yer gonna rebuild inside of cuddy from scratch?...and if yer gonna leave out the floor well, can you move the bulkhead forward and go w/a bigger (longer) fuel tank?...

Reel that is my plan. I want to go to a 100 gallon fuel tank. Should be 2/3rds longer than the stock tank. I could not believe how good of condition my tank was. I am still debating tank placement. It seems my floor is good in the cap so I almost want to keep the tank in the rear just because I have the access to it. I thought the cuddy top deck was rotted out, its not. One of the supporting members that runs all the way across in front of the slide had broke loose. I discovered that when I pulled the carpet out. I am also pondering a pilot house build and worried about too much forward weight if I move the fuel tank forwards. When I stick it all back together the cap is getting glassed to the hull. I was quite suprised too about the foam in her. I thought that someone on here said they only sprayed around the edges of the cap from the rodboxes?

Got a little free time and removed the glass over the transom core. I think for its age the transom is in ok shape. I was expecting worse. But the only bad areas are where holes were drilled. Yet the top engine mount holes had no soft. Trying to remove the plywood now.

Here are a few pics. Notice how much was cut off the stringers where they attach to the transom. And still trying to figure out the hole above the bilge plug hole.

My transom core is in three pieces each two layers of plywood. So far its all wet. Got one layer off the port side.

Now got one layer off starboard side. Its half wet.

Jason my stringers were not even attached to my transom!! They were 3/4 of and inch off the transom.