Synthetic two-cycle oil
 

Pre mix or oil injection? What engine?

Oil injection, 1992 Yamaha 150

Personally I would not mix it with the old oil, but wouldn't hesitate to run it. Try and run your tank empty, and then fill up with the synthetic oil. Some synthetics don't mix well with mineral oils is why I suggest that.

West marine had their synthetic on sale a couple years ago. I asked about using it for the Johnson. The salesman told me that once you run synthetic you cannot go back to conventional. Personally i wont run synthetic in any engine of mine unless the engine was broke in with it Or does not have high mileage.

COMPLETE BS. There is nothing that says you can't go back and forth between the two. I ran the pennsoil synthetic blend, but sometimes would get stuck with the full synthetic and never had a problem(pre mixing). Only issue I have heard of with going back and forth was that some of the early synthetics used a synthetic base oil that would actually react with the mineral base oil and create a fiber like substance that would plug the oil injection system(seemed the synthetics that were red were the most prone to this), and this is why I won't mix it in an oil tank. Synthetics are not reccomended for engines with no or low hours on them as the synthetic oil is so slick it can prevent the rings from seating. Other than that there is no trouble in running synthetic. Personally I liked the reduced smoke of the synthetic and synthetic blends.

Gotta agree with Ferm 100%. It even says on the side of the bottle that they can be mixed with regular oil. I've never had a problem with using synth., although the extra price keeps me using regular most times. When I can find the synth on sale I'll buy it though.

I don't know. $38 for a gallon of Yamalube compaired to $18 for a gallon of Penzoil at Walmart. I used to be a hardcore believer of Yamalube but at those prices you would be a fool to run it.

Every once in awhile wally world has the pennsoil full synthetic on sale for less than the blended stuff to get it off the shelves and new inventory in.

Exactly.

The usual Pennsol that I see wally world having on sale is a blended synthetic btw.. not the pure synthetic. But it's a great oil and I agree with Pete that when it's on sale it's a great bang for the buck. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Pennzoil-M...1-Gal/16401577

Merc Premium Plus blend at $20/gal. reg price from a Merc dealer. Yamalube, v. -the act of having your sphincter lubed just prior to checkout at your local dealer. Ouch $38/gal. That would have me rethinking that stuff too capt. Pete.
I do know that Merc. Premium Plus and DFI oil mix without a hitch. Had to do it to get home once, everything worked out.

In my towboat I run optimax oil exclusively. But I don't have to pay for it. I double checked the price of Yamalube at my marina. List price is $34. But even with my discount it can't beat the Penzoil. Plus with the Yamalube I have to use ring free or I will foul plugs over time. I was told by others that had the same problem that also switched to Penzoil and they never fouled a plug again. I figure with my old motor it's worth a shot.

I have been using wally world oil for years!! Even now with a 2004 Yamaha HDPI, never a issue! If you are under warranty use what they say, but all bets off after warranty is gone!

I would NOT use wally world oil in a HPDI unless you want to have a costly engine repair. HPDI engines have a MUCH different oil requirement, and improper oil is what lead to the majority of early FICHT failures as well as MANY optimax engine and compressor failures.

You can either chose longevity on your investment or not.

My engine has a setting for the XD100 that allows you to burn less oil---one way or another you pay!

Yes I pay around $38 a gallon for my oil and am lucky to burn 5 gallons a year at around 400 hrs a year. Cheap insurance on a $15,000 motor, IMHO.

The lack of oil consumption using the XD100 is crazy good. I agree that it would be foolish to risk a powerhead by saving a few bucks on oil. Penzoil would be my go to stuff on premix motors. I met a go fast dealer in Florida that swears by the Wally World oil in his Opti's. And he could afford to pay for whatever oil he wanted. He believes it to be a better product. ???

I used to run two stroke oil 200:1 in my 6.5 diesel. When i first started it, I had some Xd30 and run that. My mpg went up 1mpg. Then i ran out and bought wallyworld oil. Mpg went back down 1mpg. I was trying to save my injection pump till tax time. That goes to show that you really get what you pay for in oil. My injection pump was fine. Turned out all three nuts were loose and it was rotating a little bit and overfueling the engine. For a while my V had a soot black bow on the starboard side. I did replace the pump and been running OptiLube xpd ever since. The xpd gives me 1mpg more just like the xd30. Only the xpd costs $28 per quart shipped from cali. I have already bought a gallon of Merc oil for my 2.5l. That is all i plan to run in it. To me its worth the peace of mind k owing i have a manufacturer recommended oil and i wont be cheap when it comes to two stroke oil. That oil the only thing keeping your engine running and 40+ miles offshore i prefer the peace of mind.

New member here but a long time powersports junkie; snowmobiles, 4wheeler's, boats, etc. I have run Amsoil exclusively in all my motors for years with great success. Specifically in my pre mix 2-strokes, I run Amsoil Saber or Saber Outboard and mix it 100:1. My '86 225 VRO, (minus the VRO, hence the premix) runs smooth and fast with almost no stink and no smoke and I have over 300 hours since the last ring job. At $36 a gallon it is the same price mixed 100:1 as the petroleum based everyday TCW-3 oils mixed 50:1, and it is a far superior oil, in my experiences. Just another option for synthetics...

I found your problem.

I use Pennzoil but not the sythetic stuff. It is the one called XLF. About $20 /gal. I am running a 150hp Yamaha 2 stroke oil injection with around 500 - 600 hours.

LAKEMI Iam confused are you saying that you are running 100to1 full throlled with no damaged to your outboard

He's not running a conventional 2 stroke oil though, so don't mix 100:1 on regular 2 stroke oil. AMSOIL makes there saber oil that they say you can run a t100:1 in 50:1 engines without damage, but many have blown there engines running it this way and is why I never tried it.

That's the same stuff I got.


Genie Aye, If I had a high tech motor like an Opti or an Etec I would run a better oil. But my motor is a 1990 225 carbed Yamaha. And I use a lot more that 5 gallons a year. If I puke a rod because of lack of lube I will go back to Yamalube.

I hate to tell ya Ferm but HPDI's require the same Yamalube that every other yamaha requires, 2M. It's nothing special, no magic going on there just 6 oil lines, one behind each reed block. There is also a little fed to the vst to lube the fuel pump and that's it

It's still best to run a DFI oil with ring free and anti-varnish build-up in it. That was one of teh HUGE downfalls of teh early FICHTS was the use of regular 2 stroke oil and the carbon build-up that came with it.

No need to be confused, I am indeed running Amsoil Saber Outboard premix at 100:1 and have had no problems. I also only run pure gas at 90 octane, and do not put any ethanol blend in any of my motors. Here is how good Amsoil is in my experience; I ran my 2003 Ski-Doo snowmobile, 700cc mototor, about 135HP, clean out of oil and was running about 80MPH across a hayfield in northern MI, turning about 7800rpm on the tach. (The out of oil part is a much longer however embarrassing story). The motor seized at 80MPH as I was thrown into the handlebars and came to a dead stop; the motor locked up tight. I had Amsoil Interceptor 2-stroke oil in the motor. After about 10 mins the motor came lose and I drug the sled home, tail between my legs. At home tearing down the motor, I all had to replace was the mag side piston rings and hone that cylinder. NO scuff on the cylinder wall or piston, and the PTO cylinder was just fine. Amsoil as a lubricant is just that good, and is arguably the best synthetic on the market, not to mention they have been doing it the longest. They also have a tremendous engineering department that welcomes challenges to the quality of their product in addition to claims of failures and burn downs. I think the claim that that has been many burn downs using Saber outboard at 100:1 is false. Lots of folks run it up here.

I have had my Doo 1000 do the same thing---brought it home--new rings and pistons(for saftey) and put her together and got another season before selling the sled-----But I was running ----Redline full synthetic race oil. Any quality oil will do the job---in 40 years--I have seen very few oil related faliures from the lubricant.

I'm pre-mixing w/the 2.4 Merc...just getting finished w/a tank of fuel w/Pennzoil Synthetic BLEND...and have two gals of Merc oil to follow on next fill...the Merc oil is 19.99 at Academy Sports all the time...

We are always running WOT in the 19' Starcraft. only a 800 Redstripe, I use the full synthetic like the smokeless attributes of it . I mix 16 oz to 10 Gallons & run Sunoco 93 Octane. Either Lucas or Penzoil. works good .

Running around the inland lakes have to get to where your going. :train: Out on the Great lakes we run 3/4 throttle. around 30mph.

All sounds good, but most motors are made to run 89 octane and you just waste the $$$ on the better stuff.