Replacing stringers while on Roller trailer
 

Question for you guys. Have any of you replaced the stringers while the boat was on a roller type trailer? I was thinking I might just make some stands for the hull and do the replacement of the trailer.

I did it without a problem. I strapped the boat down to keep it from oil canning!! I kept my liner and some of the forward deck so it kept it together. If your gonna remove the liner and stringers then you should think about building a rack like you said

I would think the rollers would deform the hull without stringers. Best bet is to block it under the transom and up front under the keel along with stands on the side to stabilize it.

yeah, I think I will have to make some stands for the hull. Any of you guys have made any worth copying?

When i had the 18 Fish in the garage for two days (until i found out just how bad it was) i had 6x6 blocks under the keel and used a travel trailer stabilizer under each side of the transom. To be safe i run a ratchet strap across the bottom from stabilizer to stabilizer to keep them from coming out. Reel simply used 2x4s cut to the correct length for his side stabilizers.

tonight I went and dug two holes. One for each 4x4 that will be cemented in the ground. Then I will run 4= 2x6x10 bolted to the 4x4's and i will rest the stern on that and then use 2x4's on each side of the hull and and really big block under the bow.

I would take it just a step further. Essentially build a bunk trailer on your 4x4's. Use (2) 2x6x10 bolted to your (2) 4x4's on either side separated so that they are the same distance apart as your stringers (about 33"). I would use my skill saw and rip an angle at the top similar to your boats bottom and staple a few pieces of carpet on that.

You will be surprised how much flex is in these hulls once you take the structure out. I really believe this will save you some headaches later on.

that's a good idea. What I was going to do was run a 2x4 under the stringers on top of some blocks for more support. I was also going to do the transom, followed by one stringer at a time.

I should have asked if you are going to cut the floor out or pop the cap off. As you said, you replace the transom then the stringers. Replacing one stringer at a time will be a PITA. Its nice to get down to a clean slate before you start building back.

Your looking at a project thats probably going to take 6 months minimum if you are doing it on your off time. Might as well set up for the long haul. Heck, 4 piers of cinderblocks 2 blocks high with 4x4's would work so long as you have a good stable work platform with lots of straight andeven support you'll be good. Set up as low to the ground as possible is recommended because you will be climbing in and out 100's of times. I've ripped the crotch out of at least 3 pair of jeans.

Very good point. Heck i would just set the bottom on some 2x? lumber laid flat. My V20 is on a cinder block topped with a 2x6 in the rear and a stack 3 cinder blocks high up front so it drains. I can step right into the splashwell at that height. Of course this is just for bottom paint stripping. (yeah i know its been three months) Once i get ready to remove the liner for the bracket build, it will be in the garage on 6x6s.

Dont cut your floor. Just pop the cap. In my opinion its easier to pop the cap then repair the floor.

That is what I hear its easier to remove the cap. The problem is I am not sure how I am going to put the cap back on afterwards. I might have to rent one of those really big fork lifts??

I have the 4x4's in the ground. I'll snap a photo tomorrow. As going low to the ground. I am not sure how easy it would be without using a large forklift or tractor with a loader or backhoe. Thats another 300 to rent i'm sure.

As far as getting the cap on and off you could easily build a couple really large saw horses and use a comealong and some ratchet straps. That large forklift will run you probably $3-5 hundred each time you have to bring it out including the delivery and pick-up. Lumber in building a lift will run less than $150 including a come-along. Will need to be about 8' tall to provide the necessary clearance.

Lift the cap, pull the boat out from under and lower.

As far as getting the boat off the trailer, I once used a strap that attached to to the rear corner of my trailer, the strap went to the bow and through the eye bolt that your winch attaches to and back to the opposite corner of the trailer back at the transom. I was able to winch the boat off using that method. I would put a good amount of pressure on the strap, go to the front and lift upon the boat and it would slide 5-6" and repeat.

large saw horses, I like that idea. I would just have to make them pretty sturdy. You wouldn't know how much the cap weighs?

Without the hatch covers its probably close to a little over 400 LBS. Also, once you get the engine, cap, tank, and water-soaked foam out, the hull does not weigh very much. It will be much easier to slide off the trailer.

That doesn't sound too heavy. I guess the worst part will be disconnecting the drain hoses.

Naa.. the worst part will be digging out the water soaked foam... That stuff does not like to let go, is strong and if it's anything like mine was it will stink to high heaven.

I took pictures of everything I could take a picture of. Every electrical fitting, every place fiberglass came together, I included rulers to get a sense of scale. I figure it will help when I hook everything back up. I've referenced many pics that where completely insignificant when I took them but have proven a big help now.

You will end up with 15 lbs of screws, nuts and bolts. I put mine in about 100 ziplocs with a slip of paper labeling what it was for. Go through it like a crime scene. Each screw you save will be $0.35. Even if you want to replace it, save it.

Yeah water soaked foam, my worst part was figuring out what to do with it all. What year is your boat? You may be lucky.

Stupid question, can you dry the foam out, cut it up some, then foam it back in with the new foam? It does seem like it would make the new foam go further.

1989 is the year.

I don't plan on putting any foam in the boat with the exception of maybe by the fuel tank.

I had torn about half of my foam out when I first started and came back to that part of the project. The boat was out of the elements that entire time (about 2-3 months) and the weather was warm. The remainng foam was still dripping wet when I pulled it out. They should sell that stuff in plant nurseries.

To foam or not to foam, that is the question. After seeing the thread about whether these boats sink when filled with water; I am happy that I decided to put foam back. There are 20 page threads on The Hull Truth about whether to refoam or not.

Plenty of time to think about that later.

you are right I am a long ways away from that. I had a question, were they hidden bolts, screws of glass you had to cut to remove the top cap?

Not on mine, once you remove the rub rail there will be another row of screws under that. Don't forget to remove all wiring and fuel fill and vent lines.

I recommend you put a screw driver bit in your drill rather than use a cordless screw driver. Goes much faster getting (80) 1.5" screws out.

Not as bad as I thought. Good idea on using the drill. I can imagine it taking forever with a cordless screwdriver.

I am bringing her up here to Thibodaux on Sunday. By the end of next week I should hopefully have the top half off. I'll try to remember to post pics of the progress.

thanks again for the info

If you will need help and can wait till the 21st or 22nd I wouldn't mind helping while I am in Houma, the whole family is going to a birthday party for my uncle and I believe its in the afternoon so i am available in the morning and possibly the whole day the 22nd.

I really appreciate the offer. I'll pm you if I don't go to grand isle that weekend and will need some help.

I have a few friends back at the boat place I used to work at. I might end up driving to Houma to use their big boat hoist to lift up the top cap.