prop change
 

I purchased a new prop Michigan wheel vortex ,it came with a hub kit, when I went to change the prop, I put it all together and the washer that goes on after the prop ( the one that is about 3/8" thick and has grooves to interlock with the splines ) doesn't catch any splines. The splines end flush with the end of the hub assembly. Did everything the way the instructions aid to do, they reference using the old washer and they show it in the diagram but it looks much thinner ( like a regular washer ) can I go to a marine store to get this washer, without it the prop just slides right off. This is the type of setup i have now. Thanks:head:

I had the same problem. First, be sure to check that the hub is in correctly as there are a few different positions it will fit. Only one is correct. Second, You may need to just put on the thin washer amd bolt and then tighten down to seat the hub. Once you do that, take off the nut and add the inner ribbed washer and then the flat washer and finally the notched high ring that holds nut in place along with cotter pin.

Also you need to make sure you have the correect thrust washer installed. The big heavy washer that goes on the propshaft before the prop goes on is different on the early engines VS the later engines(around 91 they changed over). If you put an early style washer on a late model propshaft it will not allow the prop to go on all the way and your aft washer will not engage the splines properly.

The thrust washer they gave me in the kit is smaller in thickness than the one that was on there, it doesn't matter which position I put the hub on it all sits the same.

Did you pull the old thrust washer off like Ferm said?

Yes

Then it may be the wrong prop for your motor.

According to Wholesale Marine's website this prop (Michigan Wheel 992002-100 ) is for my year make model and horsepower

I would definitely call them and give them the info on your motor and the wheel and kit you bought. They will let you know for sure what is going on.

OK I called Michigan Wheel, they told me the kit (200) is the correct hub kit, I need to "seat" the hub by hitting it all the way into the prop with a block of wood, or put it all together and tighten the nut down as CAM said. Went out today, tried it, it seated all the way in which was good, still didn't have exposed splines, but had plenty of threads to get only the nut and cotter pin on, ran it everything was fine. The boat ran way smoother, got it up to 5100 ( previously only 4500 )with just me and my son. My concern is that there is no washer. The entire nut is against material, do I need a thin flat washer? I don't know what it would do, the nut is making full contact with the adapter. What do you think? I still have a constant rattling noise that sounds like it is coming from the lower unit, can't figure it out, only hear it above 2500 RPM's, this happened with the old prop too so I know it is not the prop. I don't know what to check.

OK I called Michigan Wheel, they told me the kit (200) is the correct hub kit, I need to "seat" the hub by hitting it all the way into the prop with a block of wood, or put it all together and tighten the nut down as CAM said. Went out today, tried it, it seated all the way in which was good, still didn't have exposed splines, but had plenty of threads to get only the nut and cotter pin on, ran it everything was fine. The boat ran way smoother, got it up to 5100 ( previously only 4500 )with just me and my son. My concern is that there is no washer. The entire nut is against material, do I need a thin flat washer? I don't know what it would do, the nut is making full contact with the adapter. What do you think?

I know that the OMC kit that I used on my new prop came with the flat thin washer but I did not use it. Absolutely no problems to date. You should be good to go. :fam:

I used the boat last night took the boys fishing, before I went out I put a stainless steel fender washer on it. kept checking it throughout the evening to see if anything was loosening up. everything seemed fine. I spoke to a few mechanics around here, nobody seems to use the exchangeable hub system, they all say I should not have to be jury rigging it, the kit should have everything I need. It is not the case I guess. Thanks for yor input.

Some motors call for it and some do not.....

I was wondering any opinions on two things. How does this gas consumption sound -- 20 minutes (no wake) each way in and out of channel, 3 hrs nonstop tubing with 5 kids 2 adults, food, drinks, ( got 5400 RPM's ) gear put in 11 gallons before trip 89 octane. Fuel gauges were right back where I started when I was done. Now my other question, I have been hearing a chattering at 3000 RPM and above, had engine cover off and I put my head right next to block and i didn't hear it, sounds like it is coming from the lower unit. It is driving me nuts. I have VRO, lines are only two seasons old. I topped off my oil tank at the beginning of the season, it has hardly moved, I have put approx. 8-10 hrs. on engine. Can the noise be that the engine isn't getting enough oil at higher RPM's. I would think if wired up right there would be an alarm or it would'nt allow higher rpm's? I am afraid I might be further damaging something. Any thoughts

I figure that according to this calculator, at 50:1 mixture, you should have used 28 ounces of oil..

http://www.csgnetwork.com/oilfuelcalc.html

This is why most of the guys here hate the VRO and disconnect it and add oil directly to the tank with the gas at fillups.

I was leaning towards doing that anyway, is it complicated to do ?

I still use mine, only because I just recently changed the pump and it is new. Try posting this as a question in the forums. A lot of guys here have successfully done that and can guide you through it.

Once you have done what's needed to your motor, use one of these to determine how much oil to add to the amount of gas you just put into the tank...

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...x#.UAMteZEw8TA

Many places have these other than West...Walmart has 'em I think...no matter where you get it, it has graduated markings on the side to determine the amount of oil you need to add...A NO BRAINER which is the way I like it...on mine, it indicates one full bottle to 10 gals of gas...for instance 25 gals gas would get 2 1/2 bottles of oil...and so on...it's a perfect measure every time...

My rule on auto-oilers: If it ain't under warranty, disconnect it...but that's just me...lotta people love 'em and use 'em...