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Boyesen reed valves
Thinking of installing the Boyesen Reed Valve and wonder if they are really worth all they claim?
FASTER STARTS: No more sitting and cranking cranking when engine is cold or hot SMOOTHER IDLE: No more coughing, sputtering and dying. Blazing acceleration for that all-important holeshot. More horsepower throughout the powerband for guaranteed performance. Smoother Trolling: Troll down to a heartbeat with the controll of Boyesen Power Reeds Improved engine efficiency and fuel economy. Up to a 10% increase Longer Service life - Boyesen Power Reeds outlast all other aftermarket reeds. |
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I'd like to know that...do they make 'em for Mercs??...me likey that "Blazing acceleration" thingy... |
Boyesons run good for the first 3 hours or so, but after that they begin to leak and run worse than the stock ones did you just took out. The single stage TONY DOUKAS RACING REEDS or the CRIS CARSON MAIRINE reeds ARE worth putting in though, and cost less than a set of BOYESONS do.
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I'll second the chris carson reeds, if you are running a 2.5 Merc, the factory promax reeds(not for the rubber coated reed blocks) are the way to go. If you are running high performance motors, they will improve the performance, on a boat like a V, the only advantage is they are composite, so if you swallow a reed, it won't grenade the motor, other wise I'd stay with the stock reeds. Reel, your 2.4 probably already has after market reeds know what Ridge builds
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I know my Johnson idled 10X better with the TDR reeds than it did with the stockers in it. The BOYESENS ran good for about 2-3 hours, but then they started leaking at an idle and it sneezed non stop because of it.
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I thought the 2.4 that Reel has runs better with the Boyeson reeds. Even after the 3-4 hours Ferm. In running down what I thought was an issue of sneezing, I pulled the reeds and looked at them. They were perfectly seated on the plastic cages. They are the two stage Boyesons. The plastic coated cages were worked with a piece of glass and 600/1200 grit when installed. Reed stops thrown in the garbage as they came with a mounting bar. Only did it for fear of what Spare was saying about eating a reed. The factory reeds were all open just a little .005 to .015 I would guess. Chris Carson would have my business if I needed another set. Being in Miami he is just a hop skip and jump for you down in Key Largo BuilderFL. He knows reeds, so does Tony. I have heard mixed reviews on the Boyesons. Don't shoot me Reel.. Last I heard it was running well??
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you're going to keep jinxin that motor till it blows
You had the rubber coated cages on that motor? |
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Only havin' trouble at idle and restarts...Pete dialed it in w/the light you sent and boy was it doin' GREAT...then I took it fishin' and it cold started GREAT and anything above idle, it's perfect...when I went to restart, it wouldn't stay running...would start and die...hopefully just idle up a turn or two...any ideas?...do I need to call Chris Carson? |
probably picked some trash up in the idle circuit of the carb, may need to dissassemble them, blow em out, and put them back together
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I know Chris Carson and have been to his shop many times over the years but did not know he had designed reed valves. I have a 2.4 that runs just fine, however it's that idle (800-900rpm) that gives me trouble, even shutting down when approaching the dock on a windy busy day. It's a bear to deal with.
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Can't judge a book by the cover Builder. LOL. Anyone that has ever been there to pick up their reeds was probably thinking the same thing. Unsuspecting little place. Normally has a go fast or two and a couple relics sitting out front of his place.
Sorry in advance for the derail.. Reel, when I was checking into my idle issue with the 2.4L I was chasing carburetion, ignition and then checked the reeds to make sure that wasn't it. I did find a coil that was intermittently failing at idle. Found it at the lake, backed into the water with the timing light. Ran very good after replacement. When the motor came off the boat to install big bertha it was running like a champ, save for a leaky trim pump. Whatever it is doing now may have no bearing on the reeds. But then again it might. To run good one outing and poorly the next is crazy. Restart problems?? Never. Might be idled too low. Try the warm up lever and see if it starts easier. Spare, it sounds like I have already jinxed it. Yes it has the plastic coated reed blocks. I was running what I had at the time. I wonder what ethanol does to plastic reed blocks?? S :cen: T. |
Taking Skools, Ferms and Spares advice, I put Chris Carson reeds http://www.chriscarsonmarine.com in my Johnson 225 last year and the cold start difference was simply amazing.. one crank and shes purring. :love: If I ever have to do any carb work on my 200 Merc you can bet that a new set of Carson Reeds will be one of the first parts I order.
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never heard of any one sanding the rubber coated reed blocks, done it a bunch of times on the aluminum ones, that's why I was asking
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Wet sanded them just like the non-coated. It looked absolutely perfect. Right or wrong. Warranty work??
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I couldn't agree more w/your 1st statement above...that's why I'm so stumped over this...cuz Pete had this baby NAILED...he did check the coils w/your light, so I don't think that's it...per your second statement above, he agreed and told me an idle up a bit might be called for...I'm thinking it's no more than that, cuz using the warm-up lever starts it every time... And you two can shelve all the talk about JINXIN' this motor...I double-dipped it in some Jinx-Off...great stuff that Jinx-Off...:clap: |
You've already used that Merc more in the past few months than I ever have. LOL Jinx-off!
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Does that mean you sanded the flywheel?
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DEFACE that work of art??...NEVER!!...Woe be to any who try...:bat: I gotta put up a pic of that flywheel so all here can appreciate that statement...Pete sure got a kick outta that when we pulled the cover!!...LOL!!... |
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