1984 step lift restored pictures
 

Boat is finally getting to look like I want it to, but there is always more to do.

It is really looking nice, Steven. I like the color and graphics on that Evinrude. I had a 90 hp Evinrude with the same color scheme on a previous boat.

Thanks for sharing. Nice looking rig.

Looking good there. I like your cockpit lights.

There's a profound statement!!...

Nice job on your '84...like that slick bottom!!...is that a 200 or a 150HP?...

It's a 1985 150 hp.and I did hit 48 mph.with it,I find 30-32 a good cruisin speed does that sound about right to you since this is my first V20.

Classic, very nice

Sounds a bit on the high side for top end, but as long as she's not over-revvin' at top speed all I can say is CONGRATULATIONS!!...

Was your floor in that good shape...and I'm curious about the screw pattern in the center of the gas-tank hatch-lid...:head:

Nice looking V...1984 IS the best year.

The floor and transom are in great shape it has a newer metal tank 60 gal.from previous owner.

those 5 screws are unusual. Must be some support added under the hatch?

...and 84 IS the best year!

Looks great!

There are supports under the hatch where the screws are.

Nice!!!! I wish my boat looked like that...

rkc

I am just starting to restore my 1983 V20. (Looks very similarto yours). Do you have any pics of the restoration process? Where did you get your canvas top and rod boxes?

The boat was in good shape when I got it,the floor and transom solid so I didn't have to do any major work. It was a mess I did restore the hull gel coat to bring back the shine also restored all the teak.The rod boxes I took out and cleaned them up.I got my bimini and new boat cover from a local shop here in Utah.The top is great made of sunbrella.This is a great site with lots of good people that can help and have done major restoration jobs and have posted pics of there work,just ask what you want to do to your boat and someone will help.Good luck in your project and post pics.

How do you restore gel coat? Do you just have it buffed out? Sounds like my 83 is in about the same shape. The transom and hull are fine, but the boat deck is covered with a fine dirt/grime, rod boxes are cracked and chipped. the teak trim is also cracked and needs refinishing.

[QUOTE=steven;181458]I used Meguiars #44 color restorer with a buffer then Meguiars Flagship premium marine wax by hand.If the dirt/grime is bad you might want to wash it down with a acid solution first.I had a Fiberform boat I did it worked great.You probably can find something at Home Depot.Be sure to wear gloves and eye protection.My rod boxes where in good shape,maybe you can take them out and fiber glass the backside and repaint the front.I removed all my teak sanded it down to original color and stained it American Walnut put 3 coats marine varnish on it.I know that's against tradition but I didn't feel like doing the teak oil thing all the time and besides I like the darker color it stands out real nice.It's all a matter of personal taste.

Dirt & grime?...I used a lightweight power-washer on mine w/very good result...

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...n/DSCN0968.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...n/DSCN0969.jpg

Example on the floor deck...

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...n/DSCN0966.jpg

Later I accidently realized what a good dousing of WD-40 could do to this floor...

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...n/DSCN1327.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...n/DSCN1326.jpg

WD-40??...sprayed it on liberally...let it soak for 10-15 mins, then took a stiff scrub brush to it and you won't believe the dirt/grime that it dislodged from the tiniest places of the non-skid...after you scrub it, wipe it up good w/a clean towel..never was an "oily feel" to it and after a while it retains it's look...keep it clean as usual after that...next time I wanna CLEAN floor like this, I'll follow the procedure above...worked pretty good

Wd40 is great for doing wood surfaces too.I live alone and even use it on the hard wood floors and the furniture in the house.

Finally! Here are pics of my 1983. Attachment 3621

Attachment 3622

Attachment 3623

Attachment 3624

Looks like you are starting out with not much to do on that 83, nice boat.

After lookin at Steven's '83 pictures and recently closely inspecting an '87 I was seriously thinking about buying, i'm beginning to realize there's not a whole lotta difference from '83 to '87....did they keep this basic design all the way into the '90s and up to the year before the 21?...

[QUOTE=steven;181578]The only difference that I can see in your 83 to my 84 is the seats they look identical.It looks in good shape to me,let us know what you plan on doing with the hull.Very nice v20 you will be as happy as I am.It took me 4 months to get mine kooking the way I want and still have more to do.

Yes, my 83 and your 84 look very similar. Besides diffent seats, my rod boxs are slanted / / forward. Your looks stright [ ] up and down. I took the floor panel over the fuel tank off this weekend, as it was soft. . Apparently, water had leaked in through access pannels on the floor. The water, however, remained trapped betweeen in the wood between floor and fiberglass. The tank and surrounding foam were both dry! The wood between the fiberglass and floor was soaking wet. I made a small tear in the fiberglass and set the panel up on end. Water has been drippping out ever since. Obviously I'll have to redo that section of the floor, but nothing else too major, other than the antifouling paint on the bottom. (I have a seprate post on that). Of interest, when I removed the tank cover, I discovered that there were 2 wooden supports running across the top of the tank. Not sure if that is original or not, as I had seen pics in an earlier post, here there were no cross braces over the gas tank. Do you know if your had the same set up? (I recall that your tank had been previously replaced). Not sure if my tank need replacing, but am curious if it is original? Not sure how to tell?

My tank cover was in good shape there was cross members put in after someone putting in the new metal tank.I don't know if cross members are a original set up.I cleaned the tank compartment out replaced the top and put clear caulk all around it.I don't know if original tank was metal or some kind of plastic.I've read a lot of stuff on the internet about E-10 fuel you might want to look into that it's not good for all us boaters does damage if you don't take precautions.

Soft, soggy fuel-tank lids are pretty common w/these boats...and yer right about the source of water intrusion...Wellcraft saw no need to seal the edge of the holes cut thru the lid for the inspection hatches...the two wooden supports were in mine also and I suspect were standard issue..not sure of their purpose...they seem to be held in place only by the foam around the tank and are well below the bottom of the hatch lid...

Here's mine when 1st opened
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...n/DSCN1102.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...n/DSCN1103.jpg
I had just talked to Spare about some things he had done w/a router...found a bit that worked and ran it around the edge
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...n/DSCN1105.jpg
after the router did it's thing, bottom peeled back like an orange
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...n/DSCN1108.jpg
Flatbar and this wide chisel cleaned off the remaining tiles
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...n/DSCN1111.jpg
Here's the newly cored lid...not perfect, but came out OK for my 1st fiberglass job...SHOULD have beveled off the edges of the plywood so glass mat would lay down better...really had to work the stuff for it to make a 90* turn around the edges
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...n/DSCN1116.jpg
Biggest problem reinstalling was several of the screw holes either were too big or just weren't there...cobbled different solutions to this and put it back in place...recaulked w/4200...

Oh yeah...edges of inspection hatch holes are now glassed over and properly SEALED...if water gets back in, it won't be thru there...

Why did Wellcraft go with the seperate tiles, instead of just one big piece of wood? What type of wood did you use? (marine grade plywood?) Also what was the thickness of your new piece? Thanks, Jim

Jim...everybody sees those plywood tiles and thinks; "CHEAP"...I imagine they are cost efficient but they are used by many boat builders...the old timers have heard this before, but back in '07, me and two other V-20 members toured the Pursuit factory...they use them to core CURVED bow-decks and other non flat surfaces...like the bow-deck on our V-20s...I just figured Wellcraft used them in the flat fuel hatch-lid because they were already a purchased item and had them in constant stock...done to their spec and never wetted/soaked from H2o intrusion, they would continue to hold their strength indefinately...
I used solid ply cuz it's easier and readily available...went to Lowes and got regular 3/4" plywood...nothing special...whatever you use for coring needs to be DRY DRY DRY...never use treated and Marine grade is just over-kill...the fiberglass, done properly (not by me obviously) will encapsulate the ply, bond to it as the wet stuff penetrates the DRY wood surface and forms a structural "sandwich"..just make sure you use a plywood w/no VOIDS inside the sheet...hopefully the REAL glass gurus here will come along and fill in some details...

Did you replace the tank in the above pics or just redo the tank cover?

I had the wooden cross pieces on my 87 that looked exactly like Reel's so I'm saying it was factory. My theory is that they put those wood pieces in before foaming so they stop the tank from popping up while the foam expands.

Somebody on here in the past too (I think Spareparts) gave a good reason as to why little squares properly fiberglassed together is stronger than plywood....cant remember the exact explanation but it made alot of sense at the time. Less of a chance for the plywood layers delaminating themselves or something of that nature.

Just the cover...so far I haven't had reason to replace the tank...the most gas I've had in it is only 30-35 gals or so...if it's still tight when I eventually fill it up, I'll really sigh some relief...