Merc trim pump
 

250 Merc EFI Outboard - Is there any way to R&R the integrated style power trim motor without removing the starbd side clamp bracket? The one allen head bolt is buried in the corner. I don't think it possible to get to but it was worth asking the experts. This is one corroded mutha. Previous owner let her sit in the drink long enough for barnacles to grow upon barnacles.

hey Vic,
it is possible with some. I'm not sure about yours. Is your motor held in with 2 allen bolts? I use a long t handle allen wrench or allen sockets with a swivel. Either way it requires a lot of patience.

Thanks, that is what I was hoping for. Looks like 3/8" crawlspace, I will try it. Found a later model mid and purchased it Tuesday. I am going to try and fix this one for now, with all the corrosion I know it isn't coming apart without a struggle.

:news:You probably know about it already, but for those that don't, you can buy a great tool at Sears called a hand impact driver. Basically it holds a socket, or a screwdriver bit, and when you hit the head with a hammer if provides a turning force in the direction you want to go and at the same time the force of the impact keeps the bit seated deeply in the bolt so it doesn't round it out. I've found it invaluable to use on phillips head and allen head bolts on motorcycles. It's great for breaking corroded bolts free and it saves a ton of cussing and time. You can buy cheaper units at Harbor Freight and other places, but the Sears one seems to be made exceptionally well. I have several, and the Sears unit I have is well over 30 years old and still works like the day it was bought. You can buy adaptors to hold 1/2" drive allen wrench bits.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...1&blockType=G1

Thanks Destroyer, bought one in 1985 when dealing with the all the phillips head bolts on Jap cars/trucks. How did they get them so tight without messing up the head anyway? Freeze them first? Definitely one of my favorite tools but don't fit where I need it most. IF I need to dismantle the clamp, that is a winner, followed by the blue wrench, a set of easy outs, drilling, swearing and finally heli-coils. Spraying it all with Blaster every day for a week before I begin. I need to muster some patience before I even start. Considering taking the lower and powerhead loose right off the bat and doing what NYMACk did to his 140, blast and repaint all my corroded parts and pieces to make them look better. But then I want to use the boat ASAP. I am torn.

That's a delimina for sure. I think if it was me I'd opt for the repair now and fish, and then file this under "winter project" for the remove/blast/paint/reassemble part of it... but that's just me.

And as to your question about how they got them so tight... I don't know... maybe they used Sears impact drivers? All I know is that when I was riding I was always working on Kaws and Yammies and that tool was the ONLY thing I would use to take out the polished Phillips head machine screws they seem so fond of using on the engine cases... Anything else was just asking for trouble. :head:

with your motor on hte bracket, loosen up the motor mounting bolts(top ones more than the bottom) and let the motor tilt back a bit, you can access it from the front side then

Go ahead and use it now...wait til the 1st snow and then...oh yeah...ya'll don't even HAVE winter, much less freakin SNOW...LOL!!

I just read about how long you spent on your beautiful CC...after spending a couple of days on it, I'd say 5 yrs WELL SPENT!!...:clap:

Appreciate the kind words Ozzie, if I was waiting on winter that may take a while. The tip trick on the trim motor might be tried Spare. I will dive in tomorrow and take a few pictures...

Round style trim pump
 

Snapped off the easy to get to bolt securing the trim motor to the pump housing. It was the second bolt I touched on Sat. The job just got a lot more complicated, I was expecting it. Spent 4 hours on the stb side clamp. She didn't want to move at first. Finally got it loose so I could get the power trim unit out and on the bench. Woke up this morning and noticed a few more gray hairs. Pictures in the am.

Can't tell ya how many jobs I started to have 'em go that way...takes all the fun outta knuckle-bustin'!!...feelin' for ya buddy...

Here is the carnage.Attachment 2922

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go ahead and clean hte heads off the other ones with a chisel, that will get the motor out of the way so you can get at whats left. IF you apply heat, it may melt hte screen inside the pump.

Yep, the last picture shows that there are still some threads to grab onto on the one that broke off. If I chisel the head off the other one at least I can get some blaster in there and have something remaining to grab with vice grips on and peck on. If I use any heat, I will be mindful of the screen. The next two bolts to remove the pump section are probably corroded up as well.. At this point I was planning on rebuilding the entire unit, blast and paint the brackets and hand sand and paint the power trim unit. I will let you know how it goes with bolt extraction. For the time being I got issues at work, maybe tomorrow.

That completely sucks Ridge...sorry to see the problems you're having. :sad: To avoid this in the future, don't forget to coat the threads with never-seize when you put it back together. :head:

I got one out of two of the motor bolts out. Both of the pump section bolts out. More Blaster and more waiting. Corrosion on the threads has the pump stuck to the sides of the broken bolt. Once it releases its grip, the last bolt will be exposed and should virtually fall out. (according to the fine print).

Got it, the bolts came out as predicted. Then I priced the parts. Trim Pump Motor was $330 from Mercury. Sierra had one for $300. Not a lot of shopping the internet but I found one for $200 from ProMarine. Basic Seal kit is $70. Or I can buy the entire assembly new from Mercury for $677.00.(By Assembly I mean Brand New Motor, Pump and Hydraulic three ram trim system Complete)

Ridge-
Not sure if you saw these or not...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Used-...item3f0976a1f2

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCU...item27ba9f1df6

Also, not sure what year/model you have but might be able to get just the pump (Arco not Merc) for a lot cheaper.

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_...506.m270.l1313

Just throwing out options.

-Svence

Thanks Svence, those are some good numbers there. I took inventory, I already have three complete trim units on three different midsections, one is a leaker (the old 2.4L 200 carb I took off the 20v), one the motor doesn't work (the driveshaft housing is ventilated), and one is mint (like new 20" from a 225 Mariner Magnum 2.5L). I figured the 3.0L midsction used a different trim unit than the old 2.5L Mercs. While the clamps are a little different the trim units are not. Live and learn. I like the idea of NEW Mercury stuff at my dealers cost. But I see now I just need a replacement motor, a few bolts and o-rings and I will have this one back together. I can't bring myself to take apart the 20" mid that is complete like new, I am still contemplating using it on my flats boat.

Put it to the test over the weekend. Works like a charm. Took a while to prep and paint everything. Haven't even cracked into the old trim pump. The new anodized trim assembly from Mercury was quick and fit nicely. I have had the money but not the time, this way was quicker by a few days. Pictures iffy, camera is still a POS which would play into my hand when taking pictures of my paint job. The award, Orange Peel King of Florida.
What really sucks is going somewhere and comparing notes on how little orange peel the new, untouched cowls have. They do a real nice job from the factory.

Here are a few pictures from the trim replacement/paint job. Working on the cowl now. Post up pictures when I get it right.Attachment 3102

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good looking work

Every once in a while I get a project to the point of completion. Pictures of the 1st, 2nd and 3rd attempt at paint on the Mercury cowl.
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Orange peel and lots of it. Ended up sealing the entire cowl and spraying with urethane paint HVLP first time ever. Owned the spray gun for 10 years but only sprayed gelcoat in the past. This was a learning experience.
Took my last best shot spraying the black. Decided it was good enough for who it was for. Color sanded in the end, applied decals from outboarddecals.com and shot two coats of urethane clear.
It could still stand to be wet sanded and buffed, maybe later.
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