1990 Yamaha 200ETXD - any good?
 

I just came heir to a Yamaha 200ETXD that appears to be in good shape. Can any of you outboard gurus tell me if this motor is worth strapping on a V20? Any idea of what kind of fuel economy I'd expect from it?

Thanks!

Strap away :clap: With a 13.75 x 17 SS prop and carrying a weight of roughly 3500 lbs you should see about 45-50 MPH with about 2.50 MPG @ 5400 RPM according to Yamaha's website. 3500 RPM's should give you about 30 MPH with about 8 MPG. What year Yammy is it? How's the shift rod?

It's a 1990. From what little of the shift rod I can see, it appears to be rusty but not corroded away. I recall seeing posts on here related to Yamaha shift rods, and will search and do some reading.

If I can get 8mpg @ 30mph I'd be tickled ****less.

Thanks!

Well, that was from Yamaha's website with a 20 foot boat of about the same weight and dimensions as a V20, so understand that they might shade their figures a tad.... but in all cases as far as I can see that's a good engine and if you don't want it I'd be willing to bet you'd get a ton of people wanting to buy it from you.

That is a 2.6 liter carbed, great motor and a workhorse. Some might even call it bulletproof. Shift rod went to stainless in early 90's and the tiller arm area/ steering tube/ trim motors prone to rust in the salt. Run it, those motors idle and run smooth for carbed. The later efi (OX66) versions also great motors and sought after two strokes weren't all that much better on gas.

Brian

As long as it beats the 4.5mpg I get with a 3.7L I/O I'll be happy :sun:

This one has minimal rust in the areas you described, and no corroded aluminum from what I can see. If I decide to use it I will go with one of those replacement 2 part stainless shift rods.

Not gonna happen. That engine should burn about 12 gallons per hour at a 3800 RPM cruise I would guess which on a V should have you running about 30-35 roughly. So 2.5-3 MPG is about the best you will probably ever see from it, but 2-2.5 MPG is much more realistic for a 2 stroke carbed outboard. It's hard to beat an I/O for fuel milage unless you've got a 4 stroke outboard. On the bright side though them old YAMAHA's tend to run forever with virtually no maintence except for the shift rods(which is easily fixable).

Sounds like ya did good, Y'daddy!!...if it were mine and if this is doable on that particular motor, I'd yank the automatic oiling stem outta that thing quick...mixing is easy w/one of those graduated bottles...and it's a WHOLE LOT easier than fixin' that puppy after the auto-oiler fails and cooks your Yammie...

Hopefully some of the guys who KNOW will hop on here and tell ya if it can be done on that motor...

I know 4 strokes get better economy than 2 strokes, but never having owned a large 2 stroke I wasn't sure of how great a difference to expect. Hearing that I'd get up to 8mpg had me going though!

The motor is on a 21' center console I just picked up. I'll run it on that boat and see what kind of mileage it gets. It will have to be an impressive ride in order to get me to swap my 3.7 I/O to an outboard though.

My thoughts exactly. I don't trust auto-oilers, and prefer to mix my own.

my 225 gets 12-14 gph @4000 rpms which is pushing the boat at 30 knots. Don't get rid of the oil injection. The pump is gear driven off the crank and will never fail. You will waste a lot of oil going to premix.

YAMAHA's oil injection is one of the best second only to SUZUKI's(the only reason SUZUKI's is better is because there reservoir is under the cowling instead of remote mounted). They have a bronze gear on the crank and a steel drive gear for the pump shaft, so VERY few failures there. There only weak point is the remote oil tank set-up which is dependant on a switch and oil pump to get oil up to the engine. The pump is VERY reliable as it is rubber encased, but the switches do fail every so often. As for swapping out your I/O, I wouldn't. The 3.7L is a good engine for the most part, and will be HARD to beat for economy and reliability.

The shiFT ROD if not changed yet will rot in time they all did! They changed in 1994 but they are good motors and i in line with therms numbers
good luck!!

When I saw the 2.5-3mpg estimates I banished all thoughts of putting this outboard on my V. It's on a center console I picked up, and that's probably where I'll leave it.

I fired the motor up in the driveway today and it seems to run fine. I did notice an odd 'ting' sound every time I shifted from either forward or reverse into neutral. I had the cover off and eventually noticed what was happening was whenever I went into neutral the starter was engaging and bouncing off the flywheel. Ever run into this problem?

A 2 part stainless replacement shift rod is on the top of my to-do list.

Hey Pete!!...I can't help it...I still leary of auto-oilers...so many other items to fail...switches, lines, intakes...my BIL's auto-oiler failed cuz the intake in the tank clogged and fried his motor...

Hey Oz, I see why you are skeptical about oil injection. A blown powerhead would piss me off too.
OMC's VRO yes I would get rid of. Merc 2.5 efi plastic crank gear and NO motion sensor yes get rid of. The only problem with tha Yamaha system especially from '90 on up is that the control module for the oil injection is built it to the ecu and not a seperate unit. So if it fails(very rare but I have seen it happen) you need to drop $1000 for a new ecu. There is a small inline filter on the remote oil tank back by the electric pump. If that is replaced every other year or so the system should be trouble free.

You're right on the money, brand wise...my 1st encounters were '85/'86 OMCs of two friends of mine...BOTH failed and cooked the motors just out of warranty...later the Merc plastic gear got a friend's 200 Black Max...rebuilt it and BOOM!!...same thing happend 2nd time!!...
Leave it to Yamaha to come up w/the system less likely to fail and I've never heard of a Yam failure...but I'm still wary...

Pete, funny you mention the Mercs with out the sensor, merc determined the coupler with the magnet was the cause of the oil gear failuer, it would swell up and stick in the bore, causeing the gear to strip out. We had a run of sport jets do it, figured they stay setting up longer than the outboards(fisherman). When we inspected the coupler, you couldn't really tell what happened. Most of them were under warranty so we went with what merc said, they updated the coupler, eventually discarded it. If merc had used a bronze gear on the crank, they would have an oil injection on par with Yamaha

Spere, I agree 100%. I don't know why they decided on using a plastic gear.

That's what me and my buddy, who's Merc it was that blew couldn't figure out...why Merc didn't just offer a metal replacement...sounds easy enough to me...it ain't rocket science or somethin'...:head:

plastic gears sell more motors and make more business for people like me

I have two 1986 150 Yamahas on my 250 Sportsman, neither one has the oil injection. It seems something electrical in the ecu got fried and they kept overfilling the engine tank. After two weeks of screwing with it i pitched all tanks out and removed the gear drive and have premixed ever since then.