repower
 

Sorry for this post. It feels kinda amateurish, but I'm seriously considering a new outboard for the repower. I haven't been able to find any carbed 2-strokes at good value. I think I would ultimately want a 4-stroke (or something more efficient) anyway, with gas prices going the way they are.

I'm shopping 150 HPs. I've researched the E-Tecs (approx $12,500 completely rigged) and Suzuki EFIs ($14,000). I don't think I'm interested in a Yamaha or Merc, but I'd definitely like some opinions and feedback on all of the new engines.

Or, I'd also love to find an older 2-stroke for a good price. The problem is that I need new controls and gauges, too. I'm kinda thinking why buy everything now set up for carbed 2-stroke, then repower in 3-5 years. Would've been a big waste. The other problem with a used engine is that I'm not mechanically savvy enough to do it myself. I'd still have to pay to have it mounted and rigged.

Thanks,
Aaron

Price, warranty and local shop quality were the decision points for me.

I repowered with Merc at a great price, with 5 year warranty and the local shop is reputable with Merc. In addition there are a lot of other Merc shops in my area that are good.

Have you tried pricing a SUZUKI 140HP? Also the YAMAHA 150HP would be a good choice. I would shy away from the VERADOS due to weight. The 150 or 175 ETEC would be a good repower option as well as a 150 OPTIMAX. The SUZUKI 140HP should be able to be had for a decent price I would think as a few years back you could get one fro $8K + rigging and controls.

You feel like taking a chance on a 1984 Evinrude 150hp 20" shaft, fuel mix?
It had minor detonation on the #6 cylinder, #1, 2, 3, 5, 6 cylinders have 90psi, #4 has 89psi, same as when I bought it.
Got no controls, prop or harness, takes the red plug harness.

$ stroke is nice but these boats are not good for the weight! I go with a Etec if new or anything with low hours in the 2 stroke 150 to 175, thee are lots of good ones out there

A new Four stroke new is going to take a long long time to pay for itself even if gas does hit $5.00 a gallon. There are lots of nice two strokes on the market right now if you look. Especially the larger V-6 motors. A few months back I bought a like brand new 94 Merc 150 from a guy that went to the boat show and drank the four stroke kool aid. Motor looks like it has 15 hours on it. When asked why he would even buy a new motor he just said the new ones were more reliable. Asked if he ever had a problem with his merc, answer no it was just getting old and he was worried it would soon break. Gotta love it.

Brian

Would you run offshore in the 10-25 mile range with that motor? If so, what would you want for it? If I bring the boat up on a saturday morning, any chance I could get you to help me rig it up? Pretty sure I have that red plug harness from my old 1984 Evinrude 185HP.

If this checks out right, it could be an option you may want to consider also..
http://orlando.craigslist.org/boa/2204979431.html

Good find, Mack. Just not sure about driving 2.5 hrs to inspect I motor when I know very little except how to check compression & look for corrosion. Does look like a 20", though. He probably only ran that boat in fresh water, too.

To much money for that engine in my opinion. It's a 21 year old 2 stroke bass boat engine that has probably been screamed on every day of it's life. Plus that is the same engine as the old 235 basically that EARNED the name 2 thirsty 5 for it's unbelievable ability to gulp fuel like a toilet.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EVINR...ssoriesQ5fGear

Found this in Jupiter on Ebay. Ferm, would you pretty much feel the same on this as you did the 1990?

That one there is a GOOD engine, and if it checks out I wouldn't hesitate to jump on it(but I think his price is on the high end, $1500 sounds more like where it should be). If you're looking for an old school 2 stroker with carbs, I would look at the 135/150 MERCURY 2.0L, YAMAHA 150/175's, JOHNSON/EVINRUDE 150/175 60 degree loopers, and the JOHNSON/EVINRUDE 130/140 90 degree loopers. Parts for teh JOHNSON/EVINRUDES do tend to be cheaper and widely available followed by MERCURY and then YAMAHA. The MERCURY 2.0L is an excellent engine, and I believe is a perfect match for a V-20 if your not out ot set nay speed records. If you want to set the water on fire though, a 2.5L MERCURY 200HP or even the 3.0L MERCURY would do just that. And the 200/225 JOHNSON/EVINRUDE 90 degree loopers will also get a V-20 going in a hurry as well.

Hows about $600 and I help you load it into your truck? I know you don't want to drag a V 2 1/2 hours here and then back no more than I want to rig it. Besides the gas money you'd save, you can get a foldable shop crane.
I want a tilt unit for another boat, with shipping they've been running about $600.

Man wish I had it right now...that would do NICELY on my 18.:hide:

So you're saying it's time I buy a foldable shop crane? I guess I could figure it out on my own. You may have found your buyer, but installing an engine is not something I've been involved with before. I gave my old engine to a shop in exchange for them to get it off the boat.

Back to the 1st question... is it an engine you'd trust 20 miles offshore? (I am a SeaTow member).

Just found a shop crane available to borrow. Tsubaki, please don't mistake my excessive questions as a lack of appreciation. I can see that you're offering me a very good deal... I just want to make sure it's something that can get me home safely and that it is expected to hold up for a few years (something worth the effort).

The 115HP V4 on my old boat had compression in the low 90s and it ran like a champ, but I'm not sure what it means to have minor detonation to a cylinder.

Also, is the paint job and cowling in decent condition?

In all honesty I haven't had the motor on the back of a boat since I found the problem.
Thought there likely was a catastrophic problem, checked into rebuilding it, priced it out and said screw it when I found the current motor.
After I repowered, out of curiosity pulled the starboard head. Cleaned the debris, bought gaskets, put it back together, ran fine seems the same as when I bought it.
Now I do know it has not been cranked since about August 2009, probably need to clean the carbs.
I don't trust any boat offshore and do have SeaTow, not only that, I generally don't go past 15 miles (chicken).
I'd invite FERM and anybody else's opinion to you as to this engine.
My personal opinion of it is to be a great rebuild candidate or use it till it needs rebuilding.
Just don't have a need for it on the fleet we've got now.

Some of the history of the boat and motor.
This thread maybe skip toward the end.
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ighlight=specs
Changing the t-stats and sensors.
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ead.php?t=7633
And the bad part.
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11817

See if the pictures help.
Till I got it, it was most likely a freshwater engine and I doubt I've put 20 hours on it.

If it turns out that he isn't interested, I might be. I currently have a 91 Evinrude 200. Anyone know how much different the controls and connections would be then this 84 Evinrude 150?

Some pictures, probably 6 months ago. Notice the dirt dawber in picture 4.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...84150hp003.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...84150hp004.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...84150hp006.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...84150hp002.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...84150hp005.jpg

Hey TSUBAKI, were you running it without the front plastic airbox portion? I see in your pics it isn't on there and that WILL cause one of them to burn itself up in a HURRY!

FERM (I had to look and see) you are correct, in that picture the air damper is off of that booger and I've not put it back on.
Trying to remember if I ran it without it on the whole time.

Thanks for all the info Tsubaki. That looks damn clean for an '84, but I'm gonna pass on this one. I've put alot of work into the boat and am looking to get alot of use out of it this year. Since I don't know too much about engines, I'm looking for something relatively worry-free. Good luck getting rid of it... looks like a couple bites here already.

Ain't no problem awthacker, thanks for the interest.

quick sell the boat!! cause brand new ok the rack you going to have issues, its the nature of salt and boating!1

You must be typing on your smartphone, cause that was just hard to read. Think I got the jist of the joke, though. But seriously, I think you can see the difference between a motor that is producing metallic build-up on one of the plugs vs. one that checks out good. I know the boat is gonna cost me lots of money over time. I just scrapped a motor that I thought was excessively corroded, showed signs of having been overheated, and had no trim/tilt assembly. If I wanted a "trouble" motor, I would've just slapped a t/t on it and headed out. I don't mind spending a few thousand to get something "relatively" reliable. Kinda looking at that 175HP Evinrude in Jupiter that Ferm is endorsing. May not be too different than the one you picked up because the guy "thought it may break soon".

You have to learn to read "WINDTALKER", it is an aquired talent. MJ is the only known individual that can type in the mistic "WINDTALKER" language so we are privilaged enough to have him here. As for the engine, ANY engine you get will have problems at some point in time. Most get to warm and fuzzy inside when they hear that they have a warranty and think of it as a guarantee it won't let you down which ios not the case. I can understand you not wanting an engine with problems already, but there is no guarantee that the next clean engine you get won't do the same thing right away. The best thing you can do is to find a good engine and disable the oil injection if it is an OMC or MERC(provided it's an old school 2 stroke, DFI's CANNOT have the oil injection removed) and mix your own oil in the fuel. That is about as much of a guarantee that you can get that it will last for you(that and decarb it often).

I'm glad you guys got the "windtalkin'" because I have no idea what the hell that means.

I think then, that I'm picking up on this WINDTALKING. "k" replaces "ff" and always add a "1" after an exclamation point.

The 115hp Johnson on my old boat had the VRO disable, so I figure that's what I'd do with the next, if applicable. Mostly because I don't want to find a place for an oil resorvoir.

You got it!! LOL

everyone here can tell you that I have had my share of motor problems over the years!!!

Windtalking is an anchent Navaho dialect thats was used when the "braves" were discusing the issues they were having with their canoes. For fear of letting their "Squaws' know just how much they spent on their canoes or just how many problems they were having with them, they invented a secret language to discuss their issues with out the other half knowing what was being said(or spent). We have been taught this ancient language by our feerless leader, Chief Sittingbullsh**, other wise known as MJ. Hang around long enough and you'll be able to pick it up with the best of us.:hide:

Transom is all ready for the new power (well, after a light sand and one more coat of paint). I decided not to raise the transom because it was structurally sound. I also decided against having a local shop build a new engine. Mostly because I opted for the 1995 175 HP Evinrude Invader that I linked to on a previous post. At $2000, the price was right and I've got my fingers crossed that it works out well. It is being delivered in person and so far I'm only out $500. Should be delivered Thursday and I hope to have it installed by the end of the weekend.

1995 175hp Invader
 

Received the engine today. $2,000 via ebay plus $250 shipping. Was able to use the forklift at work to lift it while we mounted it. So far, it's bolted in place, but not rigged at all. Temporarily powered it up to lift the tilt for towing. That worked... so far, so good. Still have my fingers crossed that it'll fire up and run smooth sometime tomorrow afternoon.

Man, That looks nice...great work on the transom!!...keep us posted on the wet test!!...and keep the pics COMIN!!...

Thanks Reel. But the engine didn't test too well on the hose today. This is a 1994 Evinrude V6 VRO. The VRO has not been disabled, as far as I can tell. I have no idea what the VRO pump looks like or where it is located, but it must have some type of resorvoir because this thing is running super rich and dripping massive amounts of black oil. So I've only run it for maybe 10 minutes. I thought that since there's no oil supply hooked to the engine, the VRO would essentially be disabled and I could run out any remaining oil. I honestly believe I watched 1/2 quart of oil ooze out of the exhaust. Where's all this oil coming from and does anyone know how to disbale the VRO pump?

I haven't capped the oil feed, only removed the hose. I'll take care of that before running it again. Is there any electrical harness I need to unplug?

I never have disconnected one myself...all I know is, DO IT!!...don't crank it again til you got this resolved...sounds like dancin' on the edge from here...Spare, Ferm or Skools hopefully will come along and tell ya how to do it RIGHT!!...

And then go get you one of these...

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=10442

Makes Oil/Gas Mixin' EASY!!...Wally Market might have 'em, too...

Allow me to state the obvious.. DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES run that engine without some kind of oil in the gas. If you disable the VRO then you need to run premix. But running without oil, even for a real short time, is the surest, quickest way to turn that engine into a pile of smoking scrap.

There's 50:1 in the tank. Currently, it's running 50:1 plus whatever's left in the VRO system. I wanted to run any remaining oil out of the VRO, but it just keeps coming. I finally had to shut it off. Lucky the EPA didn't show up at my house!

Your V looks awesome, As for the VRO disconnect you need to cut the line about 3 inches down from the pump "oil in" as shown and plug it with a bolt and a hose clamp, Trace the wires from the pump to the harness and disconnect it. If the low oil warning is active you need to disconnect the sender and tape up all wires on mine its was a tan color.