|
Painting the Lower Unit
Sanded all the paint off the lower over the weekend. Purchased some Phantom Black Mercury Enamel in the spray bomb and a can of the Zinc Chromate primer in spray bomb. My thoughts were to rough up the entire lower with 90 grit, spray the primer on, sand again with 220 and apply the black. Any tips or tricks before I lay the paint on?
|
I just redid the entire OB a few weeks ago, sanded with 220 and wiped clean with mineral spirits, shot the zinc primer then the Merc paint, came out nice, I wish you could buy the paint so it can be shot from a spray gun.........
|
I use those plastic cleaning wheels that are diamond embedded for cleaning the old paint off. They work great and last a long time. Also make sure and use a grease and wax remover after cleaning it before you apply the primer. I use PREP-ALL from AUTOZONE for cleaning. Apply your primer with light coats to avoid runs. I persoanlly let it dry for about 30 minutes to an hour and then begin laying down my color. I've never sanded the primer on the ones that I have done and haven't had any problems. Also I use engine enamel for the lower units as it is a tougher paint, but it will fade pretty fast in the sunlight.
|
Thanks for the replies. I like the idea of using the small round scotch brite pads for removing the paint. If it were anything but a complete half a$$ paint job in the first place it may have been necessary. I really like the idea of not having to sand after the primer. One less step will save some time.:beer:
|
Final coat didn't happen..
As one crital part was MIA.
:fight: There will definitely be a sanding stage after the primer. Got ready to spray the final color, shook the can for a good two minutes, popped the top off the can and no nozzle to be found. A 30 minute search thru all my junk and not even one matching nozzle. The can of primer says to recoat within 1 hour or wait a week? Is this right? If so I guess I get to sit back and watch the paint dry. Any opinions welcome. |
Use a scuff pad to deglaze the primer and go from there.
You will tell real quick if there is any solvent problems between the primer and paint. It will crows foot or blister, chances are almost excellent no problems will occur. |
Quote:
|
Usually, if you can put your hand on it and not have it stick to you it will work.
Normally either using a scuff pad or water sanding (or both) will let you sand between the suggested drying time. If when sanding, if it sticks, becomes gummy, it's not cured enough to sand. One thing about paints, primers, resins and epoxies is if it has a glaze or skim coat on it, it takes a little longer to cure out. Scratching it or sanding it increases the cure rate (makes it quicker). The Zinc Chromate I've used usually is good after 24hrs to be sanded, 45 minutes or so for repaint. Keep in mind, we have high temps and humidity, which increases drying rate. |
Results
Thanks again. I waited 48 hours on the zinc chromate primer, painted the lower last evening after a light sanding. The Mercury paint bomb worked without a problem, no solvent issues and only one run on the lower part of the mid, AKA operator error. I had just enough paint to cover the lower with two coats and the lower 5 inches of the mid with one and three quarter coats, thus the run. I will give it 48 hours and put it back together. Cross another one off the list...
:news: |
Very nice. That boat had ought to haul with the 225. I know boats but don't recognize that one. What is it? The hull looks a bit like a Flare but I suspect it is a ?????? I wish I could get into the habit of taking pictures.
|
Brand = Continental
Model = Monaco 21 Length = 21' link to the rebuild page Part 1 http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ead.php?t=5978 Part 2 http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ead.php?t=5461 |
Holy crap, you are the mack daddy project man. Skool, I had no idea, I am a Junior Member and have spent my fair share of time on a grinder but never once thought to pick up the camera. I kinda thought I was being original when I closed in the transom on my 20 and add a bracket only to find a dozen on here that did the same. When I was glassing I thought no one in their right mind would take the time to tear an old boat down to the stringers and start from scratch. That is what is cool about this site.
I found a thread where Ferm stuffed a Duramax in his Suburban, I guess gear heads will be gear heads. Modify or Die!!! Very cool. |
thanks yeah the ol V20 is coimg soon currently rebuilding a 1995 22ft Sylvan Deck Boat.
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:10 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.2
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.