Bracket Installed!
 

Finally, got some cousins to help install the bracket. Created a template out of 1/2 ply and got the bracket installed.

Haven't done the filling of the gaps like MJ did yet.

We had some discussion with an engineer cousing of mine which claims that after reviewing the bracket, the center section is held by 12 bolts and 5/8" aluminum on the bracket. Hence he believes that the side sections which are only 1/4 or so aluminum are not there for structural strenght. He thinks it's better to not drill any more holes in the transom and leave the gap. At most if I fill the gap with PT wood, to not put through bolts.

Any comments are accepted. I am leaning to think it should be ok without filling in the gap considering that most brackets hold the motor with just the center section. Additionally, i'm not going to pull anyting with the side pieces. At most it will have 200 lbs. on it or so when someone is getting in or out.

One thing which I didn't have readily available but we are looking to get a hold of is a few pieces of aluminum to put under the bolts on the inside to distribute the force.

Nice install, but i would change the inside washers to the biggest i could find(2" round is the best, a 1/4" aluminum plate to cover all the holes with 1" additional all around is the ultimate). As far as the sides, you should put at least one bolt on each end usind a piece of PVC pipe as spacer and washers at both ends of the PVC pipe and inside the hull.

DEFINATELY get you some 2"X2" aluminum squares and some large stainless flatwashers for the mounting bolts on the inside. Thos will pull the transom in some over time and will require retightening like that. Fiberglass compress's some if you don't spread the load out evenly. And as for the sides, you don't need them through bolted for strength of the bgracket. You need them bolted through for strength of the platforms. Think about how much stress is on them with a 200LB person up there, then multiply it times 3 to simulate what a person on it with the boat rocking would do to it.

Where can I get those aluminum squares? Ideally with the hole in them.

Stainless Marine out of Miami has nice aluminum backing plates that have two holes (so they catch two bolts). I agree it needs some backing plates I am not sure about hole spacing on their aluminum plates. Looking good. You have a delimma there on the filler piece. I elected to go with a stand alone ladder and save the trouble of the swim platform to hull mating issue. I am curious now...:clap:

Agreed, definetly do the large stainless washers at least on the inside. Any stock you can up and drill yourself(stainless or aluminum) would be best with the washers. Also fill the gap with your preference and bolt the sides also.
the forces on that transom especially under way with that 500lb engine bouncing in the water is tremendous and I think you may be underestimating it.

I am in agreement with the guys here, If you cannot locate any aluminium bars you can consider using a 3/4 plywood to fill in the entire area resin it to the inside skin and use longer bolts with washers, all the stress and weight is condense to this inside skin pressing outwards, it will not hurt to add the ply, If i remember correctly every 3/4 ply with mat and resin on it gives you 1500 lbs of support in a 3'x3' square ?

See the pic for what I did on the dually. Not pretty, but that bracket was on there nice and solid and the aluminum helped distribute the stress. The aluminum was just some scrap Kamikaze had laying around and gave to me. I just cut it to size and drilled holes where needed.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...l/100_1287.jpg

And a great job you did byg... If my big ol self can stand on it with the engine too its solid! Man i love brackets...

Like every one else says put some backing washers on there!!

your right that the sides do not hold much, but after getting your fishing line and stuff caught in that gap you will want to fil with something!!

This is the inside of my transom, 3x 1/2 steel welded and drilled the same as the bracket. coated with some zinc paint

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/...icture_016.jpg

OK. Since Kamikaze isn't close enough to consider checking with on scraps.

Checking with cousing for scrap aluminum if not I may take my wood template with all the holes on it to Stainless Marine to see if they can provide the smaller plates or even make a square piece of aluminum that would slide over all of the screws!

Hoping to get this ready before I head out Friday on vacation so that when I get back it's motor time! :party:

What about Lowes or another hardware store. They should have some aluminum stock....somewhere?

Gonna be nice Joe, keep those pics coming. I'm excited for ya.

Hey good point. May be a bit more $ but worth saving a few trips to a specialty shop.

Is that caulk on all them bolts? It looks like 5200 but I have never seen anyone that could smooth it over with one finger and make it look worth a crap. I normally buy 1 gallon of mineral spirits for every 8 oz. of 5200 sealer.. If it is 5200 and you used it liberally between the bracket and transom I say forget the washers. When the sealer dries take the mechanical fasteners out and throw them in the cuddy. You will lighten up the transom in the process.. that bracket ain't going nowhere without the transom. It does look great. Washers are insurance.

Nice deal on the motor too. What helped to make your decision to go with the Opti?

OK, this thing was racking my brain all day the more posts I saw. Just got in from finishing the update below.

Got 2" angular aluminum at home depot and replaced small washers with some home made planks. It's 1/8" and not 1/4" but the 2" washer option would have a lot less strength than this.

That's 5200 on there all right. My cousin did a great job of smoothing it, it actually is even better than in that photo as he cleaned it further after that. I read to use a lot of 5200 so I did. Spewed everywhere.

Opti decision was due to a connection via a family member to a local dealer, price, quality of the shop and distance from my house. Lastly the Opti was a little lighter than the 4 strokes.

Now I can go on vacation! Well, maybe I can get a little electrical work done on Friday before we leave! LOL

That will definately help a BUNCH. I would re-check them after 10 hours or so of run time to watch for compression of them, but otherwise have at it. And the 150 OPTI should perform nicely back there. It's pretty light by DFI standards, and is built on a time proven platform. And the ETEC guys hate it, but the OPTI has proven itself to be better on fuel many times over.

Nice job. I can attest to the great mileage and dependability of the OPTI. I just thought from the previous thread that you were leaning toward the 4-strokes.
I repowered my 20 CC this past weekend with the 250 EFI at 500 LBS on the bracket. The new to me Frankenmotor was missing a few critical bolts and nuts for the gearcase so it's not ready for a lake test. Even on the trailer I can tell the difference in weight. I may have to adjust on the trailer to get some more tongue weight. I was hoping to have it in the drink so I could let you know how she sits in the water and how it runs with the extra weight. Maybe by the time you get back I will have a picture or two.
Have a good vacation.
Vic

Longer Motor Better?
 

Hi Newbie here.
On a V-20 cuddy I/O conversion to bracket, has anyone used a 30" motor rather than a 25"?
What are the pros & cons.

I did a 25" but after I had I was wondering the same thing. But on a V20 I don't think there is enough transom for it? You would have to use a jack plate.
My Sea Ox also has a 25' conversion, and i find the same issue, the power head way to close to the water.
Would love to have a 30" to nkeep npower head out of water.

Mounting and Armstrong or a SeaMount bracket higher on the transom wouldn't work?
Looking at some pix it looks like there is room.

Mako know more than me about this, but I see enough room on my transom to mount the bracket higher.

Now on my bracket/platform there is a little bit of positive flotation that the bottom of it provides which I would guess you may loose as it goes higher.

You will have to measure? But well craft has that horse shoe looking set in on the rear, you might be it to it and have to build out for a flush mount.

You can always mount a bracket at 25" and add a jack plate, but be sure to go with a shorter bracket set back as the jack plate will set you back about 6"

All food for thought, and I no longer have a V so I can't go out and measure. Before you get in to it take all measurements and figure all out.

You know what, i think Maco is right on the surface issue. From the looks on mine you only have about 2-3 inches before you start with the uneven surface of the half moon.

Maybe you would have to level that out as part of the transom conversion from i/o?

Bracket
 

I keep seeing the smaller brackets with no platform, they look like they may fit inside the horseshoe.
As for positive flotation/buoyancy from a bracket, you gotta show me.
If you seal the chamber of the bracket and throw it in water by it self, I would bet it doesn't float.
Joe

When sealed up properly brackets definitely float and add bouyancy. There is a formula for calculating the exact amount of bouyancy. I heard somewhere that a 30" bracket has 70# bouyancy. Problem is, bouyancy is not evident if the bracket is mounted high out of the water. It certainly does not float like a piece of cork. In the water sealed off all by itself it would float motor end down with only the top 10" or so above the water line.(best guess) On my 20 the bracket adds bouyancy in heavy seas or coming off plane when it really gets dunked. I believe mine is about neutral in weight with the 500 lb motor hung on the back, boat at mooring. The manufacturers of the brackets can custom make anything your heart desires. There is a lot of conjecture about the correct mounting height for the bracket. I have done the bracket retrofit now on two boats less than 22' long. Stainless Marine gives a neat template to put on the transom, I have found their recommendation right on the money, their bracket raises the mounting height in relation to the keel to account for the water rising back up some 36" behind the boat where the lower unit meets the water. As far as a 30" shaft length, I don't like the idea, the less weight the better on a bracket. I like the jack-plate idea just fine and would recommend a smaller setback as has already been mentioned. 18" setback plus 6" for the jack plate would work nicely. My .04, adjusted for inflation

I have a smaller bracket on my sea ox thats fine, as for mounting in the horse shoe, tats why i said you have to measure.
As far as the flotation, your right I bet it would sink, but you are looking at it wrong, if you have a open bracket it allows the water to flood the bracket and the back will go down.
with a closed bracket, when back goes down it can't flood the bracket and helps with keeping the motor out of the water.

i took a ten foot wave and filled the v20 with water!! and i still say till today that the bracket when pushed up by a smaller wave is what saved us.
the motor was just about under and we were going in the water, when the wave pushed the motor up and it was running, gave it all the throttle i had and we made it out, after bailing fast with bucket we were able to make in to the harbor.

A open bracket will have not allowed for that, this is why a flotation bracket is recommended

Bracket Size
 

Thanx for the input.
I agree on the weight issue on the braket.
My goal would be good gas milage at cruising speed (25-30mph) rather top speed. We used to have a 20' Mako w/115merc. On a norml choppy day in Barnegat Bay, anything over 25mph was not fun on a 20' boat.
150/115hp would suit me fine, since most of the time it will be my wife and I in the boat.

I took the liberty of emailing Stainless Marine. The 30" setback single motor bracket without the platform has 310# bouyancy when completely submerged. Good luck with your projects:beer:

Bracket Bouyancy
 

Thanks for getting that info.
I'm really surprised that its 310#.
I keep looking at Willys' pix, and I like his set up with an Armstrong bracket.

How about it Willy, if you had to do it again would you go the same route with your bracket?
Joe