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Hi everyone, I recently got a V20 1986 dualC
Hello everyone, this is my first post and im a new owner of a v20.
This is the 2nd boat i ever had, a year ago i had other V20 someone gave to me for Free without trailer, a v20 year 1973 with damage rusted inboard engine and pretty much everything else damage too,including the hull outside in under the front and the floor very soft and the transom soft also, first i started fixing it and spent over $200+ in products but then i found it was not worth fixing it anymore cause all the wood was rotten everywhere, so i got rid of it. Now i bought this other boat the other day 1986 V20 with a damage 200hp mercury xri year 1992, the engine block has a hole on a side. I dont know much about boats but im trying to learn, i never had a boat in operating condition before, this i believe will be my first if im able to fix it and find a good working engine, so if any can help me on this a little ill be grateful. 1.. i found that the floor under the captain chair side is rotten and soft, also in the front under the boat hull there is a scratch like the first year73 boat i had but not too severed so i believe some gelcoat will fix it. Also i figured out the Transom was Cut to make it lower or something, im not sure if that is ok but i cant do anything about and i have to leave it the way it is. I will take some pictures tomorrow to show the boat in here to see if any of you can help me on this. Another thing i found that this boat was posted here before on the forum sale section with a craiglist link |
Welcome to the site!
Add to your signature your location, year of the boat, motor type, size and year. This will help us to quicker diagnose problems.
As always, pictures like you planned. Being you got a Merc, if one comes available near you, with interchangable parts, you got a headstart. If something else pops up very cheap, then that might be the best way to go. If you do find a suitable motor, insist on seeing it run and do a compression check. Most everything after that should be easy. Post questions (and pictures) as you go, this will save you time and money. |
Welcome aboard! :beer:
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was that 73 a full inboard or was it an I/O? Man if it was a full inboard that would be my fav. to find one of those.
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Welcome aboard!!!
Skools is back!!!!!! yay!!!:sun::beer: |
Congrats on the new aquisition and welcome to the board...if an outboard(sounds like it due to transom cut down), you might want to consider rebuilt power-head...a "hole-in-one" in this game ain't a good thing...if the transom was cut down, as long as it is SEALED and not seeping water into it, you oughtta be OK...
Pictures when you can... |
welcome!! sounds like you got your work cut out for you, but we all have done it!! Everyone here has had to do one or more of all the things you have listed!!
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Just to give you some idea of a reman powerhead.
Average core charge you will have to pay being yours ain't salvagable $700. Average powerhead (your type) with 1 year warrenty $2800 and up. Chances are fair you will run across an engine with a damaged foot or even a derlict rig with a good engine for around $1500. |
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I'm in Miami,FL. I came from work late and tired so i didnt take pictures of the boat yet, tomorrow will see. thanks for the replys this forum is looking great. Ok ill be back tomorrow, im out. :zip: |
There ought to be a lot of motors the same as yours available with a destroyed foot laying around.
Around here it 's the opposite, most people blow the engine and have foots laying around. |
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...but I wouldn't think in the greater Miami-Dade area you'd have much probs findin' repower for your "V"...:news: |
He's talking about 2 different boats here. He had a 73 I/O and now he has an 86 outboard with a cut down transom. In 86 the transom could have been cut down by the factory as well though as 20" and 25" were both options at that time. As for your XRI, that is one POWERFUL SOB when it's running, but it sounds like somebody done tweaked the goody out of her. The XRI's were cheater engines that pushed the 10% rule for ALL it was worth. I know my 150 XRI I had on my flat's boat was one MEAN sucker. The 200 XRI's were said to run with any of the bigger 225 MERCURY feeshin motors. As for an engine, there are plenty of good used 200HP 2.5L powerheads around. I would head over to screamandfly .com as them guys are all MERC fans and you can possibly find a good freshawater only powerhead over there. Your also close to LAKE O, there are alot of good used engines over there as well(That's where I picked my cherry 150 up at).
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Welcome to the site! You have come to the right place for all of the answers....boating and otherwise.
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Welcome! Try some of the green Kool-Aide, you'll like it. Everyone else does it. The chicks will think you're cool.:beer:
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Here where i mark in red have a scratch missing the gelcoat a little
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...iledx/b2-1.jpg Here soft floor all around this area, maybe the water got inside under the captain chair? not sure. http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...iledx/b3-1.jpg soft around these circles, how i fix or fill with something between both fiber glass layer to make it firm? http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...iledx/b4-1.jpg here a view of the transom cut, it looks fine to me but i was just wondering if thats fine, because i havent seen any other of these boats like that. IF is ok then nothing to worry. http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...boiledx/b5.jpg other view, i had to take these photos with the cellular cause i couldnt find batteries for the digital camara but either way is the same. http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...boiledx/b7.jpg |
Depending on how soft the floor is, that might be the biggest problem. If it's just a little soft I would live with it. V20's came from the factory with lower transoms like yours. Be careful backing down or beaching the boat with waves coming over the transom--other than as long as it's solid (lift up on the motor to see if there's any movement in the transom) you should be ok. The gel coat chipped off the keel can be fixed with fiberglass or marine tex. It's all something thats been fixed before by someone else on this board.
Try using the search feature. There's tons of info available. |
Soft deck plates, thats the gas tank cover, many many are soft!! Remove the whole panale and take all wood of, they will be small squares, you will replace with one sheet ply.
Transom is factory cut and you must have a 20" shaft motor. Might want to remove motor and take the Alum cap off and ck wood, if all is well, (sorry but I bet there if damage) then glass over sand and paint and seal forever, it the beast way. The floor is by far the worst fix, but cut it out till you ind good wood and start adding new ply. Save the skin of the floor so you just reglass it to the new wood. |
That is the same transom that I have, it is factory and the cap on it is fiberglass. When I swapped engines I tried to take mine off but I think they used resin to put it on.....anyway, my transom was fine, I just sealed up the seams around it with 5200 (man I hate that stuff) and stuck on the new motor.
One thing I did have to do was grind a little on the cap where the steering arm is cause it was rubbing. I just put a little paint on it to keep it from sucking water in. |
Oh, and in Miami, you will probably be able to get a good used OB out of some rich guys trashcan.:beer:
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Thanks for straightenin' me out, Ferm...and ain't pics wonderful thangs!!...:sun:
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great thanks all.
I found some outboards on craigslist, will any of these blocks fit the one i have? I will take a picture of the engine block to show you all the hole it has on the block side. this one doesnt look like the engine i have http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/boa/835511868.html This looks alot like the same model i have http://miami.craigslist.org/pbc/boa/838617227.html |
With every engine manufacturer there will be subtile or gross differences in powerheads of the same horsepower, given the year models.
The possibility exists that the foot may be interchangable more readily than the powerhead. Each one is not running, you should be able to find one that runs for $1500. |
Looking to see what years might be interchangable, found one with your same problem.
http://madison.craigslist.org/boa/824271693.html 1992 Mercury 200 hp Outboard EFI Reply to: [email protected] [?] Date: 2008-09-02, 4:44PM CDT 1992 Mercury 200 hp Outboard EFI, blown powerhead. Engine not seized but there is a hole in the block behind the starter. Great lower unit/ trim tilt etc. $1000 608-332-6110 http://images.craigslist.org/0115050...06d800acfb.jpg |
So far it looks like "92-"99's are the same.
Other than being either carburated or fuel injected. |
91+ 2.5L's will all interchange easily. You could even pick-up a 150 OPTIMAX and bolt onto it. If you get the right poppet set-up installed in it, you can also use the earlier 2.0L's and 2.4L's. The 2.0L's, 2.4L's, and 2.5L's all use the same bolt pattern on the mounting surface. EFI or carb makes no difference. The exhaust tuners did change depending upon which HP engine or size you have. As well as changes in the cooling pressure and flow depending upon the displacement. 91+ 2.5L's are pretty plentiful as they tend to be thirsty and most are updating there power. BIGSHRIMPIN has ALOT of parts that will fit that mid section.
BUILDERFL recently picked up a complete late model 2.4L for cheap that needed switchboxes. He took the parts off his old one and was back on the water for under $1K. Here's his thread. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...?t=9896&page=2 |
Just remember if you going to buy a different motor to use, You need a 20" shaft!!
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FERM, where are the model/serial #'s on these things?
Do you have pictures of them and the freeze plug looking thing with the numbers stamped in them? hard, just as soon as we can get you to post pictures of the motors serial/model #, we can tell you what year it is. Quite possibly this is it. http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...3/SSPX0134.jpg hard, either take a picture of the numbers on this shiney round plug or write them down and give them to us (if that is the serial # plug). |
Yes it is worth something to the person that really wants one, I removed mine and went railless.
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...x/SSPX0138.jpg Rusted pieces, it's now a parts motor. Don't worry about them. Maybe scoot some oil on them, just because. http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...x/SSPX0117.jpg The motor may or may not be set on the backsplash, depending on the best performance location. That's normal. http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...x/SSPX0119.jpg http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...x/SSPX0123.jpg Looks like Marine Tex should fix these. http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...x/SSPX0125.jpg http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...ki3/001-20.jpg And as far as for this http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...x/SSPX0126.jpg Here is your special paint http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...cture236-3.jpg Here is a better picture of the serial # plug. This is on a 75hp Mariner. http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture084.jpg http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture082.jpg Well maybe not the Mariner (I can't remember) but you get the idea. |
MERC URY has a welch plug in the block and there should be a metal tag on the port side of the pivot bracket I believe with the numbers. I'll try and get out tommorrow and snap a few pics of the tag locations on my old parts engine I have. The XRI's started in 89 with the 2.4L's, but that one looks like a 2.5L to me. I see the oil injection module on it, but no oil tank. Guess somebody rigged it up to keep the self test horn and water in fuel alarm. That rust in your pictures isn't major compared to some of the salty dog engines as those parts are just regular steel. TSUBAKI them pics of the welch plug you posted are of an OMC, you can tell by the OMC M stamped in it. That 200 is a good engine when it's running, but they are one of the fuel thirstiest 200 pigs ever built. The 200 XRI's are said to be 240HP LASER engines with a 200 exhaust tuner. You could always pick up another 200 carb motor and transfer the injection over to it.
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Is that a 1 piece cowling? didn't they start in 93? my steering arm has a lot more rust than that, but i am going to change it out this winter.........
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I believe all of the XRI's had 1 piece cowlings. Seen a 90 before with original 1 piece cowling instead of the clam shell.
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Cool. im getting an idea on what to do with each part. thanks
The person i bought this boat from told me that they burned this engine because they forgot to put OIL in the fuel tank.? so CARB more economic on gas than EFI? |
They each have there finer points. The EFI system is slightly easier cold starting, and tends to idle and troll better without loading up as bad. Carbs are said to be slightly better at cruise for milage. The EFI is quite a bit smoother compared to carbs IMO, and the throttle response is UNREAL!
This is cylinder #2 after being run at 100:1. This was on a boat I bought with the engine this way(A 93 150 XR6) http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...0XR6cyl1-3.jpg http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...0XR6cyl1-1.jpg http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...0XR6cyl1-2.jpg |
Found this one tonight, though you may be interested in the 4 bolt tune-up option.
http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/boa/842073308.html |
Good thing I don't like dark meat or I'd be all over that!!!
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Looks like a 20' shaft
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Everyone take a look of what i have left of the 1973/v20 boat i had before, the boat doesnt exist anymore, i cut it in pieces with a saw. I doubt anyone in this world can find it LOL..:head:
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r..._2272x1704.jpg http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...icture_098.jpg http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...icture_096.jpg http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...icture_095.jpg http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...icture_099.jpg If anyone find my boat let me know cause i cut it in 150 pieces |
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Didja save the slidin' hatch-lid off the front?...and the widshield?...any hardware?...ANYTHING??... |
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