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:clap::clap: I just read this thread from the start. Impressed with your skills , passion and ingenuity! I cannot wait to you start this again in the Spring you will have a new boat when done and one that will endure longer than the original.
Brian |
:clap::clap::clap::clap: Wow amazing project, looking at your tools and your setup, and style no doubt you are a PRO, no shop I know can produce this kind of craftsmanship and quality, my hat off to you my friend..Thanks for sharing.
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Any new progress on this restoration?
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Slow progress this season. Between the impact of the pandemic and a couple medical issues I've gotta devote resources to I don't anticipate getting much done in 2020. I did decide that the engine is not worth attempting to rebuild. The salt infiltration was too excessive. I've spent the last several days dissembling to throw the good bits on eBay and recycle the castings. I finally got the heater core replaced in my truck (started in January but got side burnered due to health) so I can hook up and uncover her this weekend then pull the cap back off to finish up some odds and ends glass work in the hull. If funding can be pulled together I'll get foam to refill the side bays and finish marrying the two halves together. Gas tank will wait till next season. I've got paint on hand to paint the hull and sole so that will be the goal for this season if I can get the foaming accomplished.
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Definitely enjoying the pictures and progress. I have the same model and it is great to be able to see what is under the deck. Just curious have you an estimate as to what you have spent so far for the rebuild? It is getting to be a question these days of rebuilding or buying another one..
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Time to catch this thread up. I opened her back up the beginning of July. Pulled out the mothballs and pulled the cap back off:
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...6qpsWbfUtbaqoP https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...CfozlcaZDNn4qA https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...hHryhp5s-9Mf1- Started off piloting the holes where the foredeck hardware would be mounting so that I didn't lose the locations while fairing the area. Dixie was an eager helper: https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...XpHG6hagrRqbOA Spent some time polishing the oxidation off the hardware I was reusing. Here is a side by side of the bow chocks before and after spending some time on the buffing wheel: https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...Jx1L3dgsN-Fv75 Man...I need to wet sand and buff my shop table...but I digress. Decided the replace the original cleats with something a little more modern looking (and which are less likely to impale me): https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...7TYDUYZpTzskbC Worked on patching the holes and other scars on the foredeck: https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...eMOprv1d7kAvRT And while I was working with glass I worked on the myriad of holes at the back of the cap - speakers, rod holders, poorly located holes for controls, etc.: https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...i_uMc5Ppy3vdbN https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...NFvUIlWzqnGoC3 https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...hhkPmt7Q_5I6ae And fabricated and glassed in a new anchor shelf: https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...BAQ2y26R2iWd9u Guess I didn't save any of the pics of fairing, and sanding, and fairing, and sanding, and more sanding and oh my lord am I restoring a boat or converting epoxy and glass to dust... I did note that the green color of TotalFair is a dead ringer for the Seafoam Green of the 1970's Cruisers Inc tri-hull my family had during my childhood years. Kind of poetic. With the fairing completed I primed the foredeck, anchor tray, battery trays and the bilge: https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...4HD_gRcaCzMfGh https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...93SW8Po32qZuCh https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...8_kea-ssicxMQa More to follow! - Greg |
With the priming completed, I laid out how I wanted the nonskid on the foredeck. I elected to hold the nonskid about 3/8" off the bowrail mounting plates which came really close to the minimum curve radius of the 3M fineline tape of 1½", and then left clear areas under everything else using that minimum curve radius. I cut templates out of thin cardboard (like notebook backer), then took a few days of vacation so I could ignore my phone while painting:
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...X83p9xSgJ9JElo https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...LceVAS_h0Ye158 https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...DFZeBBqtZ9OkZn https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...GnUw3lQOquUOLU https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...RY8_9WxLtUugHj I'm using the iBoats Tractor Paint formula and rolling it on. With the layout done I laid down the first coat and coated it with nonskid granules as I progressed: https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...KYOx72lbOE38MF https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...q5_7Lb2_W3m1oU And once the paint had solidified sufficiently I pulled up the masking: https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...x7Tu24H1xLGHz8 The following morning I swept up the excess nonskid for reuse and laid down the first finish coat. In hindsight I should have vacuumed up the excess the evening before before removing the masking and applied a coat to lock in the granules right then, as there were enough loose particles still, despite brushing and vacuuming multiple times, that I had particles migrate into the smooth areas. I was able to rectify all those with wet sanding but would have been nicer to not have to worry about that. https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...7KYgxf0CbH5GkH https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...CK7Ffo76xRr_8Y Four days of painting and then let it rest to get nice and hard. More to come! - Greg |
While the paint cured up my brother traveled down to Louisville from Toledo to lend a hand for my next endeavor - FOAM!
Did my calculations and arrived at needing 47cf of foam and that worked out perfect to get a 40cf kit and an 8cf kit from US Composites. Set the cans out in the sun first thing Saturday morning to let them warm up and around noon we poured the first lift. I guess it got a little too warm in the sun as the first cell, pouring in half the calculated amount resulted in a massive overfill. When I trimmed off the excess found large voids in the middle due to overheating. But we adjusted and figured out the best method for us to use. https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...G8H9Etg-myURA1 https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...67uMkLHNs6aZp- Later in the week I went back with a handsaw and trimmed the foam down flush with the stringer tops and then coated the cut surfaces with a little thickened epoxy for good measure. Then began installing the hardware on the foredeck. Since I wanted to through bolt all of that hardware and not rely on just screwing into the wood coring, that was the impetus for the prep work and painting on just the forececk and not the cap as a whole, before the 2 halves will get mated back together: https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...tp_hlLYbPlPqws https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...9i6f87wS9JGoq_ https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...zQGhpxhuuFDZSx https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...pltzkxGjSNe_Hp https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...Wk-SQ5rxFZHtjE https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...YfMuWnwS7o_cJn I'm really please with how the non skid contours around the hardware, I think it's a really slick detail. I'm also pleased with the finish of the paint with only rolling - no tipping or wet sanding or bufffing. It's got a light orange peel like surface but it's glossy as hell and easy to clean. I don't want to wax it until I blend the rest of the cap and sole paint in with this area, so washing the bird dropping and whatnot off it every couple days until it's recapped and can be covered with a tarp again. More to come! - Greg |
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