I'm w/MJ...I like that exact profile...how much overhang you planning all around?...

Reel I really have not thought about overhang. Maybe 8-10" front and back and 4" on the sides? I like the profile but I may drop the cap back in the hull to check how propportioned it is. I may go back another two feet and make it longer. But I am already over the gunnel rod boxes, I do not want to take all my back deck yet, without the back and door on that is full access shade that I can fish from. I need some opinions on making it longer. Thanks for the comments everybody.

Reel you got me thinking, what about just doing a two foot rear overhang on what I have now?

That's REELY why I asked about about overhang...like me, you sound concerned about taking up floor space...I don't know your priorities in the outcome of this project...shade or cockpit space?...or other?...two feet out sounds excessive to me, but might be just right for you...when holding pressure on a fish, that rods gotta have plenty of room to be held STRAIGHT UP...and my concern is too much out the back will be restrictive when it counts...but again, that's me..you may have other priorities...

I have been running that scenario through my head also. I love to drift fish over reefs and wrecks. But my main goal with this build is bluewater fishing. Even having Bluewater V20 decals made. I am looking at trolling for wahoo, tuna, and my ultimate goal is a swordfish. Thinking about it, yeah its all around fishing types. I have never held a rod straight up with a fish on except when its boat side and we want to stick it with the gaff. I would also like to get back into King Tournament fishing. I will have to do a mock up of my roof and see how it works. Something else, is a V20 stable enough to mount a crows nest? Or do yall think that will be too dangerous?

A lot of cc don't have a ton of space in the rear of the boat. The overhang will be nice, but you only need enough to let the water run off, and not down your back when under way. For shade get a good hat! I love my hard top, never have to wear a hat anymore, but it can get in the way when casting a lot, but I do most all bottom fishing.
As far as a crows nest, It has been done on the V20, and we have seen some pic's, but know one has ever said how they go?? I would think a small lower type might not be to bad, but if you make one to high you going to have issues. You know what would be nice, a sunroof in your pilot house with a small ladder to step up on, stick your head out the top and get a great view without building anything to high?? Just popped in my head as I am typing.

Whatever its coming out great!! Keep it going you have a whole winter to go before you need it.

Good idea MJ! I have seen center consoles with an opening in the t-top and you stand on the console for increased view. I might do that! If I do decide to go to a cabin roof mounted crows nest it would also make access easier, since I would not have to crawl across the top. FYI I am not wanting a tower, just a crows nest on the roof, maybe with controls too?

And MJ what do you mean by cc? Center console or cuddy cabin?

Just keep in mind our Vs are only 20' w/not a bunch of beam...so whatever weight you mount on high will tend to exagerate the rock n roll of a beam sea...if were me, I'd put the hatch through the top w/a sturdy rail up there for security and call it a day...go w/that for a while, then see if you WANT controls up there...you can always add...and the weight up high issue...a top sturdy enough to stand on is already gonna be heavy to start with...

REEL, the top will be plenty sturdy if I use a pole like BlueRunner has in his boat! :you:

Back on topic. I am thinking its around 6.5' from side to side which the roof will span. I can always do what XShark did in the Mako build and arch it. Still might run stringers across. One layer of 3/4" will support me, and with stringers it ought to support twice my weight. If I go with twin motors I wont even install a steering helm on the top, just the throttles and shifts. Still working on the details.

IMHO... 3/4 is WAY too much! with ply and glass combined, keep it under 1/2" with a few 3/4" stringers... definately arch it at least a little..
Your electronics box can be structural... a 4" high 1/8" sheer panel ( the back of the box) can be VERY strong

one layer of 3/4 with glass, stringers, and proper engineering would easily support you AND a volkswagon