Yep, when I first saw it I was (and still am) wodering they cut the vertical flange and not the horizontal flange. Makes no sense to me. I would have cut notches out of the top, bent the piece, and welded the seams. But, I can't weld aluminum and for the price I guess I shouldn't complain. Pending rental of the engine hoist this weekend to remount the motor, I have right at $650 in the entire project.

Maury

Only $650.00 !!, man, you got off cheap. Great Job. I did mine the old skool way, but the modern times are taking over. great job Bro.

Gentlemen, the motor is back on. My wife and I used a engine hoist and a little muscle to get it lined up and mounted. I found my transom cap is so thick that the motor doesn't seat flush against the transom. I need to get some washers or aluminum scrap of the same thickness to level it out. Other than that, no problems. She cranked right up. I took the boat to get the front seats made (just like Lumber's), so I'll post final pics when I get it back. I'm very happy with the pourable transom product. I have a solid transom and I have no visable signs of repair. My top cap and inner liner are still in one piece. Longevity of the repair is yet to be determined. I hope everyone found the process useful. I'm sure I could have produced more pics, but......maybe next time.

Maury

Excellent post mauryc!

Maury - Get a set of wedges from Bob's Machine shop. That will fix that problem and give you some good performance getting out of the hole. They're like $30 + shipping.

http://www.bobsmachine.com/images/trans_wedges.gif

There you go; nice recommendation BS. That'll do the trick.

Excellent, they are on their way. Wish I had them when I was mounting the motor!

Maury, this was a great thread ..... I hope I never have to do it ! but if I do I will refer back to this thread.:sun::clap::clap::clap::clap: