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Wow you have made a ton of progress! I can’t believe you got both glassed in. What was your final layer up schedule? Nice job! |
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Still need to order the fuel tank, figure out how I'm going to secure it, and decide if I'm replacing the foam or not. Might grab a dry chunk and figure out exactly what density it was to help calm my concerns that it might have had some structural value. |
Nice yeah if your at the same thickness and you have 100% incapsulated the wood I would agree you are all set. Realistically the only reason they fail is water intrusion, if you really take your time a seal it it will last a life time.
For the tank I’m planning on no foam. The aluminum ones need air flow or they will pit and fail. I’m going with something close to this video. Over all a good install OTHER then I have not idea why he doesn’t seal the screws into the stringers!! To me that is a failure waiting for water intrusion. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8m0sVshBrXQ. The poly tanks I’m no export on but I would think it would be no different. as along as it’s well supported on the sides and bottom. |
About V20 foamed-in fuel tanks...
The fuel tank space was a sealed compartment. There was a pvc pipe to allow water to pass from fwd to aft bilge. The deck hatch was meant to be sealed watertight. Any water that got into that space stayed there. You have to decide if you are going to make it a bilge space or seal it. If you foam it you have to make it sealed with a pvc pipe. Foaming has the advantage of easily securing the tank without brackets. Of course, we know the problem of foam and aluminum tanks. I foamed in a new aluminum tank because(at the time) I could not find a correct plastic tank with fittings in the same place and workable dimensions. I do believe there is a 55 gal Moeller tank out there that is correct. I think a foamed plastic tank in a sealed compartment is the best solution. oh, be careful if you find a plastic tank. New design tanks are not vented per EPA rules. You need a vented tank ...or you need to figure out what extra parts are required to use a non-vented tank. Also, I worry that non-vented tanks expand and contract quite a bit so foaming may be a problem. If you go with an open bilge space you will have standing bilge water under the tank and often touching the tank. You will have to hang the tank from your new stringers with bolts.(drill holes!!!)that's 360+ pounds As for foam in the space outside the stringers I think it will deaden the sound and make it feel much more solid. Same with the foamed tank. Of course, it will be safer also. Oh, plan on installing a forward bilge pump. You have the opportunity to plumb the hose out the side! |
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don't like it. That tank is sitting in bilge water. That matting is holding water and whatever crap ends up in the bilge. don't like it at all.... |
Just to clarify - I am NOT considering foaming the tank in. Hazard of mentioning two independent thoughts in one paragraph :)
I am going to go with a poly tank - a Moeller FOLT5007 - https://www.oceanlinkinc.com/product...0-25-folt5007/ I have a gameplan of how I'm going to mount it, but waiting to detail the method until I have it in hand. I may wait to do the tank till spring. Not sure yet. The foam I was referring to is the flotation foam down the side cavities either side of the stringers. If I'm gonna do it, best to do it while I've got it in 2 pieces. Just struggling with the decision either way. |
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Took advantage of a light schedule and the lowest forecast temps for the next 10 days and jumped in the tyvek suit and ground down the sole today. It's now ready to be re-cored. (Any of the darker areas are just moist from the power wash post grinding).
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...Or-quE0_ZcmcQB https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...CQyA7sLJsIwJBJ https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...PxqnMH3gniCgma https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...4y7qbN0raO5hcC https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...74RmZYBntLu0Oq And before I was ready to start grinding (didn't wanna wake up any late sleeping neighbors) I got all the wing templates made from lightweight cardboard. And I scuffed up the new glass in the hull to receive the tabbing for the wings and bulkheads. Have a company picnic this weekend so I'll infill smaller pockets of time with cutting the wings and bulkheads out from the sheet and prepping the pieces of 1/2" for the sole. Getting closer to slapping the two halves back together! (Prayers that I measured accurately and they actually fit together after all this would be GREATLY appreciated LOL) |
Only had a part day today due to a picnic. So got out early this morning, turned on College Gameday and started cutting out the wings and bulkheads:
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...BeMH_luvAXZjSR And voila: https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...ZXhzx6nZvx9MY6 Still need to finesse a few of the wings and make sure the tops are colinear across the stringers, and form the bottom edge of the bulkheads - decided it was a waste of cardboard to template those. Then with the spare sheet of 3/4 ply out of the way I grabbed the 1/2 ply and started on the sole: https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...tHsjFE8ycpl95G https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...31FxJO6jEh5zpN https://drive.google.com/uc?export=d...lIHnxTXcMHi3Cz And then this evening after the picnic, I gulped a few ibuprofen thanks to the last roller coaster ride I took, and made up a kraft paper template of the foredeck. I'm debating using 3/4" for that for a couple reasons - #1 I have an extra sheet, but I look to be 1/2 sheet shy on 1/2", and #2 - I think it won't hurt with as unsupported as that area is. Going to sleep on it and decide tomorrow when I dig back in. |
You’ve been doing some nice looking work and your posts are excellent. It looks like you’re not a stranger to carpentry:clap:
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