Wellcraft V20 Community - Evinrude 1987 140 v4 Rebuild

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- - Evinrude 1987 140 v4 Rebuild (https://forums.wmpdevserver1.com/community/showthread.php?t=13203)

Looks like a new one to me. I need to get to the Merc and do the same thing. My cowl needs help. Last time it was painted by previous owner they painted over the decals. They painted over the barnacles on the mid and lower too. No sanding, no filler, no joke a really crappy job. But they purchased the really expensive automotive paint, I just don't get why they didn't spend an hour to prep it right. Keep up the good work NYMACK.

Thanks for the kind words Ridge, Its Official my rookie mistake cost me time and money. I have all the parts back into the media blasting shop. This paint turns out to be a lot of bologna after all. I am mad at myself for NOT painting one part first and test, with that said, who ever dream a paint will NOT dry?
http://supermarinepaint.com/bottom-r...on-SM-1000.asp

Thanks Skools its exactly what I was thinking, I felt like just got carried away with the paint thing. Your results are amazing. I will do as you recommend. Hopefully mine looks as nice !!
I will have to zinc prime again and shoot ....

The only drawback to engine paint is that it doesn't have alot of UV resistance to it. I've done a few with it, and after a year or 2 it was fading pretty noticeably. I've had real good luck with the TEMPO engine paint that most marine stores carry though. If you do use engine paint, shoot some clear over it to help it with the sunlight fading.

oh yeah did you notice the cans of clear in the bag i cleared that motor 4 coats and it had 6 coats of white. the Evinrude was a base dark blue with a met. blue over it then cleared. it was marked 120 for 2 reasons the motor was a Johnson 140 and i have a 120 Evinrude with no use so i used the hood lettering plus the boat was rated for only 135 hp lol.

Thanks Guy's I will check Advance Auto, I must admit I like the way the Blue looks on the 120 ..Nice work ..

Here is an interesting spin ..I phone there technical support, which recommend I read the "manufacture" instructions.
Here is what I found just added..I know this because I NEVER saw this posted before! I will give it a shot again as test run. I bet I violated the WFT the reason its not drying.

Finish Coats: Fiberglass, Aluminum & Steel: Professionally applied spray coat applications yield superior results, however Revolution levels exceptionally well in brush and roll applications. Unless you are experienced with spray equipment the best way for the do it yourselfer is to apply Revolution is by roller coat. When properly thinned in appropriate temperatures (SM-101 Thinner 15%-25%) Revolution levels exceptionally well. It had a good defoamer “bubble popping additive” so the need for tipping is eliminated. Aside from spraying, which offers the best film thickness control, rolling is often the best way to achieve the recommended wet film thickness, 2 mils WFT (Wet Film Thickness). The recommended DFT is 3.4 mils. Applications applied too thickly may not adhere or level properly, run, sag and take days, or even weeks to cure. Always adhere to the manufacturers recommended WFT and DFT (Dry Film Thickness)!

Revolution must always be stirred or shaken thoroughly before use. It may be brushed, rolled or sprayed utilizing conventional and HVLP spray equipment. The solid content is exceptionally high so thinning will be necessary in most applications. The amount of thinner required will vary depending on ambient temperature, type of equipment used, method of application, humidity, color and amount of control desired and tip size in spray applications. We suggest beginning with minimum dilution at first and increasing dilution as needed subject to your individual application requirements.

Revolution may be built up to achieve a higher DFT where desired. Two, three or more thin coats are acceptable to achieve the recommended DFT. Boot and bottom stripes should always be applied over top of the recommended DFT. For best results recoat within 24-48 hours or sand between applications. Allow top coat film to cure thoroughly before allowing it to enter full service duty. The recommended minimum cure time is 7 days under most conditions. DO NOT allow newly applied paint to get wet for a minimum of 48 hours. The dry cured film may be wet sanded and buffed to remove runs and blemishes.

Moving along beyond painting. Here is where I am at the moment. I will have the cylinders hone, rods check at the machine shop.
Notice the scratches and miss spots on the paint? I will do final shoot this weekend. I have to clean up all the excessive grease off the bolts heads during the assembly process.
I ran taps through all the treads after the media blasting.
I am working on the Cowling and lower pans this weekend.
Some pictures ....
http://i822.photobucket.com/albums/z...n/IMG_0077.jpg

http://i822.photobucket.com/albums/z...n/IMG_0076.jpg
I am sure what the the deal is here with the primer coat but rest assured it will not be tolerated...
http://i822.photobucket.com/albums/z...g/IMG_0085.jpg