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Kracker Jack 06-08-2015 07:02 PM

The trick to the clear bubble free 90 degree curves is to build up some thickened (fumed silica,cabosil) resin on the outside corners then lay your cloth down and wet it out like usual when you hit the corners with the bubble popper (roller) its like magic when spread the thickened resin under the cloth.

Kracker Jack 06-08-2015 07:21 PM

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/m...psjxvwc1ds.jpg
Did a little wiring on sunday. Fuse block and switch panel all wired. Just need to install lights and wire them up.

Kracker Jack 06-09-2015 05:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SkunkBoat (Post 222078)
do you use fairing compound over it before paint?

Yes it will need to be faired before primer and paint. I just barely bump grind the cloth then apply fairing compound as needed. Dont grind out to much you will lose strength. On this repair i had some thickened resin left so i slicked the repair with what i had left just to use it up.

cterrebonne 06-09-2015 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kracker Jack (Post 222085)
Yes it will need to be faired before primer and paint. I just barely bump grind the cloth then apply fairing compound as needed. Dont grind out to much you will lose strength. On this repair i had some thickened resin left so i slicked the repair with what i had left just to use it up.

What I have done that works really well to not sand into the 1708 is to put some 1.5 CSM down as your last layer. Just so you have something that's easy to sand and you don't have to worry about cutting the fibers on the 1708.

bradford 06-09-2015 09:51 AM

Looking good and good advice all. You'll be happier with the transom at 25 inches.

Striper80 06-09-2015 05:56 PM

How many layers of glass did you lay on the outside of the repair to bring it even? I'm going to be raising the transom on my Grady to 25" as well.

Kracker Jack 06-09-2015 08:47 PM

The last layer of 1708 is the only layer thats meets the edge were i stopped grinding. Every other layer is progressive. Meaning i have 4 layers that build up the ply veneer then 2 final layers......the first of the final outside layer falls short from the grinding by like 4 inches....the last and final layer is the only one that meets the grind edge. It lets you progressively build up your thickness with out having all the thickness at the imediate edge. Hopefully that makes sense.

Striper80 06-09-2015 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kracker Jack (Post 222107)
The last layer of 1708 is the only layer thats meets the edge were i stopped grinding. Every other layer is progressive. Meaning i have 4 layers that build up the ply veneer then 2 final layers......the first of the final outside layer falls short from the grinding by like 4 inches....the last and final layer is the only one that meets the grind edge. It lets you progressively build up your thickness with out having all the thickness at the imediate edge. Hopefully that makes sense.

I think I understand. You have 6 layers total to match the thickness of the original outer skin, including overlap.

Kracker Jack 06-09-2015 09:52 PM

3 total layers on the inside of the boat total about 3/16 +- thick on the inside. Only one layer wraps the outside of the transom (the seamless piece pictured)and it simply builds the thickness grinded off and completely wraps the entire repair. The other 3 layers are between the ply veneer as i build up the ply layers.

Striper80 06-10-2015 11:03 AM

I'll be raising mine when I replace the transom so it'll be a little different. I also plan on glassing the seem between the cap and transom, getting rid of the aluminum transom cap.


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