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The trick to the clear bubble free 90 degree curves is to build up some thickened (fumed silica,cabosil) resin on the outside corners then lay your cloth down and wet it out like usual when you hit the corners with the bubble popper (roller) its like magic when spread the thickened resin under the cloth.
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http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/m...psjxvwc1ds.jpg
Did a little wiring on sunday. Fuse block and switch panel all wired. Just need to install lights and wire them up. |
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Looking good and good advice all. You'll be happier with the transom at 25 inches.
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How many layers of glass did you lay on the outside of the repair to bring it even? I'm going to be raising the transom on my Grady to 25" as well.
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The last layer of 1708 is the only layer thats meets the edge were i stopped grinding. Every other layer is progressive. Meaning i have 4 layers that build up the ply veneer then 2 final layers......the first of the final outside layer falls short from the grinding by like 4 inches....the last and final layer is the only one that meets the grind edge. It lets you progressively build up your thickness with out having all the thickness at the imediate edge. Hopefully that makes sense.
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3 total layers on the inside of the boat total about 3/16 +- thick on the inside. Only one layer wraps the outside of the transom (the seamless piece pictured)and it simply builds the thickness grinded off and completely wraps the entire repair. The other 3 layers are between the ply veneer as i build up the ply layers.
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I'll be raising mine when I replace the transom so it'll be a little different. I also plan on glassing the seem between the cap and transom, getting rid of the aluminum transom cap.
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