| RidgeRunner |
12-02-2011 09:27 AM |
Long winded apology in advance.
Grinding job looks Fantastic.. Console looks good too. Stringers have to go in before the sole. :hi: Advice takes all forms.. You got a lot of glassing to do. Transom, Stringers then sole. I like the idea of a nice splashwell on 20" transoms. The factory thought so too. Your V should sit high in the water with the 135 so no big deal.
Layup schedule for the transom. You have the plywood if I remember correctly. Make a pattern out of cardboard or whatever, cut the plywood out and dry fit. Rough up the plywood then laminate the plywood together to get the thickness desired using 2 layers of CSM in between pieces and weight down until dry. Trim the edges and then putty or glass the plywood in place. I found a fiberglass shop that allowed me use of their transom clamps. Another way to hold it together is to clamp where you can and drill through the outside of the transom and use screws to pull the core tight against the outer skin where normal clamps won't reach. Remove and fill the screw holes after dry. There will also be the original mounting holes for the motor. You can find some long bolts, fit the core exactly where it needs to be, drill the bolt holes in the core using the factory holes as a pattern and then use a piece of scrap 1x4 or 2x4 on the inside to squeeze the core against the outer skin. You may end up with a combination of all of the above and/or more. If you use putty try and wipe up excess and/or use putty to fillet the edges and transitions. Once the transom kicks and you remove the clamps you can grind the edges reinforce the perimeter (sides and bottom) with one layer of medium weight 8" or 10" wide tape and one layer of 1708, wet on wet and allow the 1708 to overlap the sides by 6-8". Heavier layups are OK but I would try to incorporate some transom knees when I was making up the stringers. Wherever the stringers touch the transom and inside hull bottom in the back will need to be lightly ground again to facilitate glassing but only at those attachment points and 12" on either side.
The sole and stringers: Need to figure from the topside down to get the correct stringer/sole height. Run some string from the freshly ground floor port to stbd. then make the stringers short of that by the thickness of the core you are using in the floor and don't forget to reduce the height of the stringers by the anticipated thickness of the glass on top of the stringers and bottom of floor if you plan to glass that too. ie, floor core thickness 3/4" + glass on top of stringers 1/8" + glass on floor bottom 1/16" + fudge factor of 1/16" to 1/8" = Stringer height 1 1/16" below your strings from stem to stern. Easier to build up a stringer than to take one down so the fudge factor. Wellcraft attached my liner to the top of the stringers with fiberglass putty. If you go the same route the sole should lay real close to flush with the top of your floor so you can glass the top of your floor and your sole to your existing side pieces in one visit. Where is Skool and the glassmen. I want another opinion. LOL.
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