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mannydvk11 12-04-2013 08:55 PM

updates
 
some updates after my problem with the motor i found out i will have to rebuilt the carbs and replace the REED BOX ASSY some of them are bad i took some time to take everything apart and to finish some of the stuff i had in mind like my diy t-top and the placement of the gas tank i will not replace the old one for now i will be using a portable one so i can keep and eye on the water situacion well here are some pics for now

t-top
http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...psotw7nvne.jpg

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...ps47zxtnow.jpg

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...psoganzpur.jpg

gas tank this is just temp but i think it will work good there

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2zplwexj.jpg

carbs

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...ps06xf43xn.jpg

mannydvk11 12-05-2013 05:38 PM

some pics of the parts i use in the t-top

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...psvyyyogwj.jpg

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...psxynrejrf.jpg

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...psrc6fqyoo.jpg


this is how i install the new gas tank and new filter this time i put it outside
http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...pstedefmd6.jpg

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...psffzqnxmr.jpg

mannydvk11 12-07-2013 03:30 PM

upgrates
 
this is something i add it a few weeks ago but i had not show it yet this is my solar panel and charger

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...psbanb8zde.jpg

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...pswdwntif6.jpg

this will keep my battery's with mos of the charge i can switch from bat#1 to bat#2 or i can keep charging 1 and 2 as a tenderizer

this is how it looks on the water

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...psyxk4bhcm.jpg

Destroyer 12-07-2013 04:00 PM

Dang, that's a small solar panel. Reading the post I figured it would be much larger and mounted on the "T" top till I saw your pic of it on the engine cowl. What's the output on that thing? 12v @ ?

mannydvk11 12-07-2013 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Destroyer (Post 210167)
Dang, that's a small solar panel. Reading the post I figured it would be much larger and mounted on the "T" top till I saw your pic of it on the engine cowl. What's the output on that thing? 12v @ ?

i was able to get and 18v output i know is small but to keep the battery's charge is good for now. i hate to not use the boat for a few weeks and not having charge in the battery's i will try to make a system to be able to use the radio and electronics with just a solar panel and a battery

Destroyer 12-08-2013 05:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mannydvk11 (Post 210168)
i was able to get an 18v output i know is small but to keep the battery's charge is good for now. i hate to not use the boat for a few weeks and not having charge in the battery's i will try to make a system to be able to use the radio and electronics with just a solar panel and a battery

I see on the controller you have unused terminals for loads (like a radio, LED lights, etc) which is why I was asking about the milliamp rating of the solar panel. I was just wondering if it could keep up with the draw of items like that during an outing. It's a nice clean set-up the way you have it and certainly makes me wonder about how I power certain items in my own boat.

mannydvk11 12-08-2013 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Destroyer (Post 210172)
I see on the controller you have unused terminals for loads (like a radio, LED lights, etc) which is why I was asking about the milliamp rating of the solar panel. I was just wondering if it could keep up with the draw of items like that during an outing. It's a nice clean set-up the way you have it and certainly makes me wonder about how I power certain items in my own boat.

i am totally new at this solar stuff i will like to have my panel to charge and be able to use it at least with on the GPS,stereo and vhf radio

mannydvk11 12-08-2013 01:28 PM

corection this is the info of the panel 12V,1260mW,Charge rate: 70mA,Height: 6.5 in,Width: 7.0 in. All Weather Proof - Protected against wind, rain, salt air, and solar radiation, UV

mannydvk11 12-29-2013 03:51 PM

well i took it out for a bit after reparing the motor addit new reed vlves new carbs parts gaskets new gas and feul lines filter wow lots of new stuff any way here is a pic of the boat in the water

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...psjmn7ta2f.jpg

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6wnvkjdj.jpg

GREYWOLF 12-29-2013 04:52 PM

looks like you are doing a great job, One thing what type of fuel lines did you use , some have big problems with the ETHANOL in the fuel they tend to rot and leak much sooner then the gray ones ?

mannydvk11 12-29-2013 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GREYWOLF (Post 210618)
looks like you are doing a great job, One thing what type of fuel lines did you use , some have big problems with the ETHANOL in the fuel they tend to rot and leak much sooner then the gray ones ?

well according to the guys at the marine store this one is good to use with ethanol i had the gray ones but i was having a problem it kink to much so i was having flow problem

GREYWOLF 12-29-2013 09:48 PM

I hear you I used to use the black automotive hose but several of my outboards had carb problems with crap from the fuel lines , I went to the new grey type ,did have some problems with kinking in hot weather, but no contamination in the carbs, the trick is to rout the hose with no sharp bends

mannydvk11 12-29-2013 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GREYWOLF (Post 210626)
I hear you I used to use the black automotive hose but several of my outboards had carb problems with crap from the fuel lines , I went to the new grey type ,did have some problems with kinking in hot weather, but no contamination in the carbs, the trick is to rout the hose with no sharp bends


yes you are right ill see how this ones will go and then ill get the gray ones my problem with the one i had it was short so i just replace them

randlemanboater 12-30-2013 11:21 PM

Very nice job on your boat...it looks great!

mannydvk11 12-31-2013 12:33 AM

gas tank Q?????
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by randlemanboater (Post 210648)
Very nice job on your boat...it looks great!

thanks

guys i have a Q?

any one know why this tank gets like a balloon and when i am running the boat it collapse what can i do to prevent this , and also should i use that gray valve you see in the picture o its better with out it

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...psffzqnxmr.jpg

spareparts 12-31-2013 09:09 AM

all the new tanks do it, they have a pressure valve on the vent to meet emission standards. Ive got np idea what that grey valve is, did it come with the tank?

randlemanboater 12-31-2013 11:02 AM

All the portable tanks I've ever used had a vent in the fill cap to prevent swelling/contracting.

But they always spilled gas when near full so I guess thats why the new tanks dont have them?

Destroyer 12-31-2013 11:49 AM

The tank expands and contracts due to internal and external pressures placed on it. Gas expands much more than water in warm weather or direct sunlight, so the tank bulges as the pressure builds internally. As warm gas gets cooler it contracts, creating a lower pressure inside the tank than outside, so outside pressure pushes on the walls of the tank and gives the tank the appearance of collapsing. This also happens when an unvented tank is being used while running. As the gas is pulled from the tank by your fuel pump it creates a vacuum inside the tank and again, the external pressure of the air will push on the tank walls giving it the appearance of collapsing.

Looking at your picture I can see what appears to be a vent in the middle of the cap without the hose attached to it, where you fill the tank with gas. Open it slightly and it will release internal pressure when the gas expands due to becoming hotter, and allow external air pressure to enter as the gas cools, stopping the bulging and collapsing of the tank walls.

Like the others, I really have no positive knowledge of what that grey thing on the hose is, although it looks like a type of pressure regulator. My guess would be it's used to prevent pressurized fuel from an unvented tank squirting out of the engine end of the hose when coupling or uncoupling the hose from an engine. Early 6 gallon metal gas cans used a pressurized molded 2 hose fuel deliver system to deliver fuel to the engine. But the problem was, because it was pressurized, if there was a leak it would spray raw gas all over, creating a dangerous fire hazard. To solve that they went to a single hose with the bulb that we all know and love....but the problem with that system is if gas in the tank isn't vented, it can create pressure within the gas line, and when the hose is being attached or disconnected it can spray raw gas all over. NOT good if you are hooking up a second tank of gas to a hot engine. So I'm pretty sure that's what it is. And it's automatic, so you don't have to do anything to it. Just leave it alone and let it do it's job.

mannydvk11 12-31-2013 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Destroyer (Post 210662)
The tank expands and contracts due to internal and external pressures placed on it. Gas expands much more than water in warm weather or direct sunlight, so the tank bulges as the pressure builds internally. As warm gas gets cooler it contracts, creating a lower pressure inside the tank than outside, so outside pressure pushes on the walls of the tank and gives the tank the appearance of collapsing. This also happens when an unvented tank is being used while running. As the gas is pulled from the tank by your fuel pump it creates a vacuum inside the tank and again, the external pressure of the air will push on the tank walls giving it the appearance of collapsing.

Looking at your picture I can see what appears to be a vent in the middle of the cap without the hose attached to it, where you fill the tank with gas. Open it slightly and it will release internal pressure when the gas expands due to becoming hotter, and allow external air pressure to enter as the gas cools, stopping the bulging and collapsing of the tank walls.

Like the others, I really have no positive knowledge of what that grey thing on the hose is, although it looks like a type of pressure regulator. My guess would be it's used to prevent pressurized fuel from an unvented tank squirting out of the engine end of the hose when coupling or uncoupling the hose from an engine. Early 6 gallon metal gas cans used a pressurized molded 2 hose fuel deliver system to deliver fuel to the engine. But the problem was, because it was pressurized, if there was a leak it would spray raw gas all over, creating a dangerous fire hazard. To solve that they went to a single hose with the bulb that we all know and love....but the problem with that system is if gas in the tank isn't vented, it can create pressure within the gas line, and when the hose is being attached or disconnected it can spray raw gas all over. NOT good if you are hooking up a second tank of gas to a hot engine. So I'm pretty sure that's what it is. And it's automatic, so you don't have to do anything to it. Just leave it alone and let it do it's job.


really good answer thank you very much now my other Q? after that answer is if i keep it open will gas evaporate and give me water problem in my tank o will water come in the tank trow the vent also if the tank is collapse will the motor have a problem like if is running with out gas o will it prevent the gas to circulate when is collapse

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ewXwbDiYacM here is a link on how the gray valve is suppose to do but am not sure if this is for my motor

steplift20 12-31-2013 03:04 PM

going back to number 11 i see you replaced the trim assembly , thats what i have to do was it hard to do i have a 150 mercury out board 1988 also got it from ebay but it didnt come yet

mannydvk11 12-31-2013 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steplift20 (Post 210668)
going back to number 11 i see you replaced the trim assembly , thats what i have to do was it hard to do i have a 150 mercury out board 1988 also got it from ebay but it didnt come yet

It was not hard at all but I don't know on the Mercruser how is done

macojoe 12-31-2013 06:13 PM

If when not using the boat the vent should be closed, but on a hot day will expand. But if it rains water can get in the vent so I use to leave it open all the time and just cover the tank with a small tarp I had when at rest.

Destroyer 12-31-2013 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mannydvk11 (Post 210666)
really good answer thank you very much now my other Q? after that answer is if i keep it open will gas evaporate and give me water problem in my tank o will water come in the tank trow the vent also if the tank is collapse will the motor have a problem like if is running with out gas o will it prevent the gas to circulate when is collapse

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ewXwbDiYacM here is a link on how the gray valve is suppose to do but am not sure if this is for my motor

Okay, one at a time...

1) If you open the vent then yes, a very tiny portion of gas will evaporate over time. Since your gas is inside an enclosed container, the only place for it to go is either out the fuel line to the engine, or (as a vapor) a tiny amount out the vent on your gas cap. The hole in the vent is very small, and only allows for expansion or contraction at a slow rate. Just enough to equalize the inside and outside pressures. As you run your engine and it pulls fuel from the tank zero gas vapor escapes from the vent. But once the engine is stopped and the gas inside starts to expand then a tiny amount of gas vapor will escape. So yes, you will lose a minuscule amount, but insignificant in the overall scheme of things.

2) No, you will not get any significant water into your tank by allowing the vent to be open during operation of your boat. Just screw the vent closed at the end of the days run. In a much larger tank, where the gas sits for days or weeks at a time, and there is not way to close the vent, then yes, due to first expansion of the gas during the warm day and then contraction of the gas during the cooler night, a small amount of water, in the form of humidity in the air will enter the tank and then condense into water as it cools. That's one of the reasons why we have fuel/water separators on the fuel line(s) going to the engine. If you still have a fear of water entering your engine from the tank, just empty whatever is left in it at the end of the day into your lawn mower. string trimmer, auto, whatever, and start out with a fresh tank of gas on your next time out on the water.

3) Yes, if the vent is closed, then your engine will create a vacuum in the tank as it pulls fuel from it. That vacuum will eventually become so strong that either the engine will stall out because it can no longer overcome the vacuum and receive gas, or, the plastic tank will collapse from the greater (14.7 lbs psig at sea level) atmospheric pressure being exerted on the outside of the tank.

Remember....NO manufacturer is going to add anything extra to a product if it isn't needed.... that costs money and will eat into their profit. So in the case of your plastic gas tank, the vent that is added into the gas cap costs the maker extra money and would not be there if it were not needed. Use it, it's there for a reason.

mannydvk11 12-31-2013 07:07 PM

thanks you very much Destroyer i was wondering about that because i saw that happen to me yesterday when i took the boat out for a run and the gas tank was collapse and the engine was turning off at hi rpms

Destroyer 01-05-2014 09:06 PM

Mannydvk11, I did a little research and found out what that grey thing is. As I suspected, it's a pressure regulation device. It's called a "Fuel Demand Valve". You can find out all about it at the following link:

http://www.mercurymarine.com/parts-a...e-fuel-system/

Please notice that in the description it clearly states that it's to prevent fuel from a pressurized tank entering an engine and creating a fire hazard. What isn't stated is that the pressurized tank is being mandated by the EPA (Extremely Pathetic A$$holes) to prevent fuel vapor from entering the atmosphere. (Even though pressurized tanks create a fire hazard). In other words, it's something that we could have lived without but is being forced down our throats by an overzealous government agency. So instead of the simple, cheap two-way vent (a sealable hole) that used to be on portable tanks, now there's an expensive one way valve that only allows air into the tank, but will not release vapor out, (thereby causing the tank to become pressurized as the warmed fuel expands) and a fuel demand valve system. And of course, it ain't free. If anyone has noticed the outrageous price of portable plastic gas tanks lately it's because they all must use a special plastic now so that Ethanol doesn't effect them. Just another little cost/tax being forced on us by big brother. But I digress... the grey thing is as I described it previously, a safety device.

Starzofchaos 01-10-2014 08:41 AM

Have you thought about installing a Moeller Marine fuel tank? I am planning on replacing my old tank with one of these. Since the original is untreated aluminum, and for what ever reason that Wellcraft decided to foam the tank in causing the tank to corrode even faster.

Here are the links:

http://www.moellermarine.com/oem/fuel_tanks/fuel-tanks/

Do you have the measurements on yours? I have a 1990 Fish 18 and I was told it has a 50 gallon tank.

mannydvk11 03-20-2014 01:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Starzofchaos (Post 210879)
Have you thought about installing a Moeller Marine fuel tank? I am planning on replacing my old tank with one of these. Since the original is untreated aluminum, and for what ever reason that Wellcraft decided to foam the tank in causing the tank to corrode even faster.

Here are the links:

http://www.moellermarine.com/oem/fuel_tanks/fuel-tanks/

Do you have the measurements on yours? I have a 1990 Fish 18 and I was told it has a 50 gallon tank.

sorry i have not answer for some time but yes now am looking to see how to repair the problem i do use the regular outside tank for now works OK for now

i have taken out the boat a few time after fixing the reebs and rebuilding the carbs no problems yet by the way the t-top is holding strong i really like it. i add it a all around light you can see it on the pic

here are some pics

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...psszzj93oc.jpg

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...psv9rkunbe.jpg

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...pshbgbikib.jpg

bradford 03-20-2014 07:40 AM

Nice looking 18 Manny, where are you located?

mannydvk11 03-20-2014 08:08 AM

Thanks am in Miami florida that pic is at haulover inlet

mannydvk11 05-07-2014 07:30 PM

New windshield
 
i was looking to buy the windshield but i know how to work acrylic my friend gave me this small peace of acrylic so i made my windshield :sun:

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...psmkkaykso.jpg

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...pswubwncdn.jpg

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...pshnzl5mz6.jpg

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...psc5yk5qdb.jpg

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...psrzbvqdfl.jpg

buckleyjr 05-08-2014 02:34 PM

Nice work Manny! You've done a great job improving your boat. Wish I was in Miami.

mannydvk11 05-08-2014 07:19 PM

thanks i have work hard but is coming out good

bradford 05-09-2014 02:19 AM

Good job on the wind sheild. Those are expensive if you go out and want to buy one.

mannydvk11 05-11-2014 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bradford (Post 213554)
Good job on the wind sheild. Those are expensive if you go out and want to buy one.

thanks and yes they are expensive

BTW a bit info on the t-top it holds really good i have taken some ruff winds and seas and its still holding :fam:


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