You are on point! I tried it today and its a no go. I'm going to run the teleflex and controls another route and just keep that Chase pipe for power and neg wires ,fuel and other wiring. I'm just not comfortable cutting my stringer out any more.

I noticed that pipe...was thinking instead of a single 90* elbow under the console, two 45s would make a much easier pull of it...I would think the steering cable would go thru that...

:nut:The transom end is 2 sweeps together to make a broad 90 degree angle.The other ened was just a hope and a prayer. It really not to big of a deal beacause I have a plan B to run teleflex and controls

Your work is great. I used a 4" chase but kept it inboard of the stringer, actually lays on top of the fuel tank in my center console.

Ridge thanks for the compliments. I thought about running the Chase down the middle but I had to end up running the teleflex outboard of the stringer sooner or later to get the bend to attach to motor. The way I'm running it now allows the teleflex and controls to kinda relax alittle better.

Looking good Matt!

csm on the bottom of my sole ply. Im gonna glue and screw tomorrow.

The other pictures are of my 4 year old daughter whos been telling everyone that daddy is building her an Ocean boat!!!. Whats boat restoration without pizza!!!!

Well today was kind of a bittersweet day, all that work on those stringers just to cover them up with plywood!!!!LOL!!! The sole was glued down today and the motor rigging ran. I have it ran to were changing teleflex is gonna be a cinch if it needs to be replaced. All holes cut were sealed with thicken resin and the pvc pipes through the floor were glued in to make them permenent.

Unreal, you are moving at breakneck speed. Every bit looks great.
Have you any ideas on your gunnels/cap? I have an idea on a cap for the '74 I have sitting in the yard. Them were some pretty stringers.. LOL. Like buying gold jawelry and hitting it with a spray bomb. :clap:

She's coming along pretty good I've been busting my hump to get her done and ready for paint by spring. Im gonna band the innerliner and outer hull edge with 3/4 Acx,I'm gonna glue and thru bolt it like the factory does. I'm then gonna glue and screw a 3/4 inch Acx plywood gunwale and put a 3 1/2 inch return on the inside to incorporate the coming pads. I'm then gonna fabricate 6 gunwale ribs(3 on each side) and glue and glass to the floor,liner,and cap.All will then be tied together and glasses with 1708.

Kracker

I did a similar cap this past year on an old closed bow I converted to a center console to knock around on.

I made the gunwale ribs out of a mold fashion from a 2X6 (rib front) and two (sides) 1/4" inch MDF panels screwed to the sides of the 2X6 that were cut to match the side wall of the hull. I went with three per side as well, but for a 16 ft boat is was probably overkill


I then glassed a 2X4 on the top inside of the gunwale ribs side so that I could screw and glue plywood gunwale from the top as well as from the side walls of the hull . I used "2" urethane insulation on top and shaped it with the belt sander to soften the lines of the cap.

One thing I didn’t do that I should off is build up a lip on the inner rail so that spray doesn’t' flow into the cockpit if it makes it to the gunwale. It would have been easy to do with the urethane had I thought about it. Glassed all with 1708 and couldn't be happier. It is lightweight and quite strong. I'm able to walk the rail and there is no give what so ever.

Kamikaze

Im gonna incorporate a wash rail or lip on my cap also.

great work im and a hard standstill on mine the weather is kinda killin the budget but what can you do

Feathered in my edges today and finished grinding gellcoat (what a pain in the @$$)!!!!!! I cut my cloth and will be glassing the floor tomorrow. I also am gonna add a little bonus to this boat, I started prepping some 1 1/2 x 4 inch teak. I glued it together with epoxy and clamps and Im gonna make a teak steering wheel base (pod style) and control base and compass base to all match my outrigger reciever base will also be teak. All the teak will be cleared to a gloss finish.

Glassed in floor yesterday and set and glued my sump well. The floor went and looks awesome.

Fuel tank
 

Im leaving and headed to Hertford, NC to get a heck of a deal on a fuel tank for the boat. A guy on craigslist is selling a 30 gallon above deck fuel cell brand new moeller tank for 60 bucks. I pretty stoked because this this is a great deal and the exact size to easily fit under my console.

just got back from Hertford, NC and this guy threw in another 18 gallon boat tank for free!!! so I got 2 tanks what a deal!!!

That IS a great deal!!...maybe w/your glass skills, a small bench in front of the console could hold the 18 gal tank...hmmm

Kracker, you're doing some AWESOME work on this V...you gonna have the whole package when done!!...

Im gonna incorporate the 18 gallon in there somewhere. Cra
igslist has been a great tool for finding things I need cheap for this boat. I also bought some Miami Lees outrigger base recievers the other day on craigslist for 20 bucks!!!! the guy had no idea what he had.

Stopping the glass at floor/side transition will make the fairing and finish on the floor a little easier. Neat work, I am impressed. Is it as strong as you hoped? Did you stick with one layer of 1708 for the floor? It looks great to me.
Congrats on the fuel tank score too. :clap:

Im gonna stop at one layer. I truelly dont see me gain anymore strength out of another layer. The only thing I would see gaining is more impact strength incase of maybe dropping something on the deck. I can not believe how strong that floor is!!!!!! i glued it and put 8 stainless 2 1/2 inch screws per stringer per sheet she is strong as a bull !!!! Im gonna be banding the liner and hull this weekend and prepping for the cap. this weekend was a flop I got nothing done thanks to my brother!!! But what are brothers for?

Oh yea I forgot to tell ya'll that Im gonna be putting a roll in bedliner with uv inhibitors on the top cap and deck. this application will also help alot with not having to fair as much because of the texture of the finish coat.

cap
 

well this weekend im gonna be jumping feet first into building the cap. Im gonna be ripping my 1 1/2 inner and outer bands with the table saw and putting a round over router edge on the bottom side of the band so i can rap my glass nicely into the hull. I will then glue and clamp the bands and then after the thickened resin sets up i will drill and counter sink thru-bolts every 12 or so inches. Im gonna fill the counter sunk holes with thickened resin to prep for glass. If i can get my bands on and glassed and ready for cap I will be happy. The weather is gonna be great.:sun:

I ripped some 3/4 today and routered some edges. I set the rail up so I could see what it looked like. Im gonna glue and thru-bolt friday.

Any reason why your not using solid wood on the exterior of the hull? I suspect your going to have issue over time with laminate even if you glass it good.

Kamikaze

I'm an amatuer at this stuff. I don't really see a huge deal with using the ACX. I was told I should use solid I'm glueing it and thru bolting it. What would solid pine do that the ACX won't? All you guys opions count. 2 things talked me into it,its flexible and I already had from my ply on my sole.

Just a back yard amateur here too! After going thru all this effort you have I don't suspect you would want a section of relatively narrow (width) ACX to delaminate/fall off the first time you hit the piling a little to hard? Never mind the water spray its going to receive over time and that will do it for sure.

My concern on the ACX is that it looks like it going to be difficult to properly seal the bottom edge to the hull sufficiently to ensure spray from getting behind the edge and working it's magic.


Kamikaze

what other material do you think I should use in its place? I do promise you one thing,the way I've glued things on this boat so far water doesn't have a chance to get between the rail and the hull! Lol!!!

My plan is to glue the Acx with thickened resin. It will then be wrapped with 2 structual layers of 1708 over the cap and rail with a rubrail to finish it off. My buddy hit a piling on the bridge tunnel one night in his seafox and blew the transom door thru the side of the fish box. My personal opinion is anytime you hit a piling with force you should expect to see glass and core damage if hit hard enough.

that will be a good laminate......complete cold molded boats like jarrett bays are built with marine ply, 1 or 2 layers of biax, and epoxy...just fully encapsolate the wood..

My suggestion would be to keep the strength of the design internal to the hull.
1.) Glue a wider internal edging as described (with sufficent width to glue to hull - screw up from bottm to attach plywood base for cap).
2.) Glue (hard as nails) foam on top of plywood with fiberglass columns previously discussed to provide support in three locations.
3.) Cover with biaxial for strength then a fine weave to smooth apperance making a clean seem line with 1" overlap to the hull on the exterior.
4.)Cover cap/hull seem line with rubrail of your choosing.

Kamikaze

So today I set the rail up and did ALOT!!!!! OF GRINDING!!!!!!! I will be glueing and glassing the ACX bands tomorrow. Im gonna glue it and thru bolt it then glass it all the way from the inside liner to the outside hull kinda creating a solid block all the way around the lip of the boat making a solid foundation to glue and screw my 3/4 cap to.

Kamikazi thanks for all your assistants and advice

KRACKER himself in action!!!
 

The handsom KRACKER himself!!!!:bsflag::you:

Looks dreamy....at least it looks like a dream sequence.

so yesterday I glued up inner and outer bands(rail). Today I filled the gap between the 2 pieces with thickened resin and let it kick. I then sanded the top down and prepped it for my top strip of glass that will stitch the inner outer band together. And then glassed the strip. getting the angle right for my cap was kinda tricky, I used mostly eye ball. I have the cap angled to the outside the boat at about a 5 or 6 degree angle to direct wash over board.

Here are some pics of the rough-in stage ofthe splash box Im building. Its 2 layers of 3/4 thats gonna be glued and glassed together.:beer:

Hey Kracker, if you're interested in that console, let em know. They may do something with that boat soon. I can probably get it as far as Raleigh for you if you want it

W/the splashwell in place, where does the water go that's gonna get into the boat?...sorry if I'm jumpin' ahead here>>>

Spare I think im gonna have to pass on the console. I truelly have way to much going on right now to even be able to pick it up. I like the console alot and its unfortunate I cant get it. I will just work with the one I have. Thank you very much for your help. Were you the one who sent me the pictures? I responded back to the pictures.