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I wouldn't chance it - and I wouldn't chance Secast bonding to wood either. If you're going to leave wood in the transom (which I don't recommend), soak it well with resin and make your pour when the resin is still green. In fact, coat it once and let it set then coat it again. This should go a long way toward proper adhesion. Arjay and Nicacore pour like latex paint. From what I've seen, seacast pours like chunky vomit. I used a rubber mallet on my transom to release any air pockets, but it wasn't necessary. That stuff filled every void with ease. Make sure EVERYTHING - even the smallest hole is sealed. It will run everywhere.
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HI again.
I know you all may be tired of me changing my mind on this transom =) but I have finally decided I am going to do a full traditional transom replacement using coosa board. I am going to do it from the inside. A friend of my dad's that now manufactures boats with what used to be the manatee boat molds had a chance to come and look at it for me and this is what he recommended. He said there wouldn't have been any way for me to remove all the wood from the top because it was only rotted in a small place and the other wood had been bonded well. Also because I wanted to make it a full 25 inch transom the pour method wasn't the best method in this situation. I hope I will have an opportunity to begin this weekend. I'll take some good pictures as soon as I begin =). I was wondering. When cutting fiberglass with a cutoff wheel of grinding it with a grinding wheel do you use metal cutting wheels or masonry wheels. I had been using metal but I though maybe someone may have tried both. thanks guys. |
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Cut the rear of the inner liner. This had been done before by a repair company to replace the transom the first time and I need to fix their finish work anyways.
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