Re: Transoms outer skin has been removed
 

Werd, Thats how I have done a couple and was doing the 20 before I got rid of her.

Re: Transoms outer skin has been removed
 

Cutting out the splashwell and cap. Sounds pretty tricky to me. :-/

Re: Transoms outer skin has been removed
 

W.Foster, have ya done anymore work on her. Make the temp pattern yet ??

Re: Transoms outer skin has been removed
 

As long as your will to repaint the transom, I have no issues with going at it fromthe backside. If I had to do mine today, I'd probably go at it just like Warner.

Airslot

Re: Transoms outer skin has been removed
 

reel,i didnt remove the transom cap.I cut about 10 inches off the rear of the liner floor,angled it up to about 2-3 inches up the sides to the top of the gunwale.I got ALL the old wood and sprayed in chopped mat and resin out with a 4 inch grinder clean to the outer skin.I then washed it down with acetone a couple of times.Then built it back up with mat and resin until I had a flat surface to glass the plyboard to. I cut the plyboard into three sections ,using cardboard templates i made so as to have correct fits.As I bonded the plyboard to the outer skin ,I used the existing holes in the transom to put wood screws through 2x2 blocks and in the holes into the plyboard, pulling it tight up to the outer skin. I also used all the C and wood clamps I had around in the gimble hole.You have to be careful not to squeeze out too much resin,as it will leave you with a dry joint. I doubled the 3/4 inch ply in the middle section to build the transom back up to 2 inches. After getting all the plyboard in I put an additional 3-4 layers of glass over all my work. I tied my new stringers back in and built a new engine bed for the front mount and a mount for the bilge pump.After covering all with layers glass, I primed and painted all with marine paint.I removed all the screws and blocks from the outside ,chopped up mat really fine and packed in the holes in the empty holes in the transom. I put shorter stainless screws in some of the holes at different spots and glassed over them too,building it back up flat with the outside of the transom .got my neighbor to spray the outside with color and clear Emron paint. After all was done I put the sections of floor back in , glassed over the seam and color matched some gelcoat to cover it all. It really wasnt that complicated, just took a lot of time and elbow grease. I used 2 sheets of 3/4 ply and about nine gallons of resin and a whole lot of heavy chopped mat. I put it back like wellcraft did it and beefed it up a little more. I also glassed around the inside of the hole where the gimble goes,where ALL the bolts go and the drain hole.

Re: Transoms outer skin has been removed
 

Oh I forgot to mention how many times I bumped my head on the underside of that transom cap! man that hurt,and dont forget to get yourself a few cases of beer to calm your nerves, youll need em!

Re: Transoms outer skin has been removed
 

Has anyone ever used anything besides wood to repair a transom?

I know there are boats on the market now boasting of no wood construction. Just seems like if you go to all the trouble to replace rot you should put something back in that wont rot again.

Re: Transoms outer skin has been removed
 

Hold that question. I might be able to answer that in the near future. I'm planning on replacing my transom core with Coosa Board. I can already tell you one downside is cost. Reatil for 1 sheet of Bluewater 26 3/4" x 4' x 8' is around 180 bucks. (1 inch thick is about $210) Times that by 2 (of the 3/4") if your looking for the original thickness of the V20 transom. Needless to say if your looking to go thicker it gets more expensive.

Re: Transoms outer skin has been removed
 

No new progress on the transom. The temp. has been 48 to 52 degrees and windy, a wee bit cool for me.
Will put two sheets of 3/4 " plywood back in. Why, the first plywood without any TLC lasted 25 plus years. Plus it is many times cheaper than composits. Will put bolts through the lift eye holes, motor bolt holes, drain holes etc. If necessary will drill additional holes for bolts if needed. Also am considering (in addition to bolts) chaining off 4x4's to the trailer frame and pulling pulling them from the top with a come-along braced inside the boat.
However, am sanding and refinishing all the Teak. What a fun task.
Need one Teak guide (the long ones) for the cutty cabin sliding top.
I am always open to suggestions. Have never done anything like this before. However I did spend the night in a Holiday End Express.

Re: Transoms outer skin has been removed
 

Plywood holds screws better and is stronger than any composites, don't let anybody tell you it's a bad choice. Also, composites are also subject to the same delamination damage due to water intrustion just like woods are.