Cap removal questions
 

Will the hull maintain its shape with the cap completely off?

Bradford, I plan on replacing it all. transom-hoping for full w/ a bracket or at least a 30" hanging, havent decided yet, stingers with floor rasied above the water line, new deck, gunwales & cap.

Should i leave the inside skin? remove it completely?
you can see in the pics where the PO screwed 2 x 10" to the inside of the factory stingers to raise the floor height.
Its going to be a slow build, so have patience with me..
saving for all material now, rather have everything I need before completey striping it to the hull.

Kracker if your still out there Id love your input. Also somewhat local, SOuthern DE,
Your build looked awesome!

Fuel tank or Tanks??
 

oh and the tank is shot too, guess there is the "Bust out another thousand". but guess thats to be expected.

Do most usually replace with a big single tank?, or those who use saddle tanks Id like your input too.

Most usually replace with a single tank, but not for the reason you'd expect. Side tanks are nice, but unless you drain them equally at the same time they tend to unbalance the boat, whereas a single tank in the middle always keeps the boat in trim as it drains. Plus you gain all that space under the gunnels for storage of rods, boat hooks, nets, extinguishers and God knows what else. (and as an added bonus, the single tanks usually hold more than the two side tanks combined).

CAP? stringer core material?
 

What about the cap Destroyer? will the hull keep its shape with it off for awhile? Ive be told as far as the stringers, replace one at a time, leaving the other in place until completed due to "oil canning" of the hull

What do you think?

Ive also seen a few build threads where actual 2" x 10" fur planks where used for stingers. Would ply be a better choice & why? Im probably going with A/A douglas fur for everthing.

There are several people here that have had their cap off that can answer your question better than I, but, logically, when the cap is put back on the hull should return to it's original shape. (Presuming that you didn't do anything to it to misshape it). As far as the stringers go, I'd do them one at a time, and, like the old carpenter's adage says, measure twice, cut once.

poppin caps
 

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/...psg0ppiubn.jpgURL=http://s1054.photobucket.com/user/brywheat80/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140630_192447_zpsjk3ufo4d.jpg.html]http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/...psjk3ufo4d.jpg[/URL]URL=http://s1054.photobucket.com/user/brywheat80/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140630_192500_zpsg0ppiubn.jpg.html]http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/...psg0ppiubn.jpg[/URL]

Tons of questions!! Help please
 

So Im still confused about the stringers and transom and have a million questions.

Transom
With the slight curve of transom Ive been told to start with 1/4" ply as it will easly bend to the exisiting outter skin. What do the pros say?
Here is the layup Ive been thinking
outter skin, resin & mat? or glue?, 1/4" ply, using a/a or a/b fir,resin & mat? or glue?, 1/2" ply, resin & mat, 1/2" ply, resin & mat, 1/2", resin & mat, till i get 2.5", told thats the thickness i need to safely hang a floation bracket..need advice there too....Should i fillet the edges of each transom ply as i go? tabbing each piece as I go? 1708 for the outter skin x 2

Stringers
are they one single piece of ply? 1"? what ive seen on a few builds If so how do you tie in two pieces for your lenght?

For instance, did you make a "bed" for the stringers? is epoxy glue good enough for the bed? or use mat & resin?

should the old glass encapsulating the old stringers be completely removed?

Keep up the great work and thanks again for any input!
Thnaks a million for the help!