http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/...aintenance.pdf

look through this book its short and has a lot of great ideas and techniques. you can pick up a hard copy for easy reference. it tends to promote west brand materials, but the ideas are universall

I copied to the Links section.

I like the fact that it's somewhat short and sweet. I have a few books on fiberglass repair and some can get a little wordy.

A great book that keeps it simple is Runabout Renovation by Jim Anderson. Got it at the library first before I bought it off Ebay for less than 10 bucks with shipping.

Thanks for the info. I'm not questing the technique (ok may be the foam!) but when you are a DIY (like me) you can spot shoddy work, and I'm seeing some obvious corner cutting production and/or inexperience. I'd like to think by 1988 Wellcraft knew how to make a boat and especially this one!

One question on your deck technique. I think you are suggesting what we are going todo. We are discussing putting a lip around the civility of the sole too so the new sole sits in like a hatch. It appears th eold wood is 1/2 and we are going to go 5/8 or 3/4 and thus have it raised...and basically have a water channel around the permitter as we have cut back around the entire deck to 1.5" from the wall. Is this what you are explaining to other then a flush deck?

We have a leaning post, centerconsole and t-top and want more thickness in our wood. Do you think we are overkilling on thickness or does it sound like increasing makes sense with our deck variables?

Oh this is great!!

i kept mine flush with the existing deck.

one trick i did learn, after you get your lip around the cavity, make a template out of thin strips of 2x4 cut edgewise (maybe 1/8 " thick) and fastened together with a hot glue gun. you can get a very exact fit and it transfers to your ply very easily. this will cut down on the voids between old deck & new

1708
 

1708 does not bend very good so I butted the 1708 and used CSM to bend around corners.

Today's accomplishments:

Spent all day glassing in stringers, took more time than I thought but I am happy with the results.

Inserted 3/4" A/C plywood (resin coated) into existing stringers and bulk heads (tops cut off, wood removed and cleaned)

Needed to add some putty filler on top as I left the plywood a little short. This allowed me to cap off the tops and make a nice finish.

Added 6" tab of 1708 to the bottoms of all stringers and bulk heads. Added 10" 1708 over top of the 6". Capped the tops of the stringers with CSM with to layers of 10"

This is all I got to today. I still need to add two layers of 10" CSM over top of the 1708 on the bottom.

I can't believe how strong my stringers are now.

I am almost ready for the floor which will be 3/4" A/C or 3/4" birch from Lowes. About the same price. Not sure if birch is much heaver or not.

I will be going over the 3/4" floor with two layers of CSM on both sides.

This should give the boat a very solid feeling.

I am decided not to add any foam. Leaving everything able to drain and breath.

You can also add 3/4 ply to the underside of the deck in any area you will be putting a seat,console etc,anywhere you need to screw into.

Although the birch has very few voids I have read it does not take resin well,the resin does not soak into the wood and create a good bond. I have not tested this myself though.

I considered this teqnique,but it seems the underside of the remaining perimeter is very uneven. How did you seal your tabs,did you just soak them in resin and then screw them from the top with thickened resin? thanks

had to do some grinding on bottom side. the tabs were soaked with epoxy & then bonded to the lip with slightly thickened epoxy(to cut down on the dripping). held in place with c clamps until cured. no mechanical fasteners. i used epoxy only, not polyester. i think it has a stronger bond & is easier to work with. more consistent pot life & work time. the down side is you are then forced to paint deck, can't gel coat.